K and p oil filter. 35 micron stainless mesh

 

Tell me more about the link.

is it running yet?

 

I pick it up today or tomorrow. What is it youre wanting to know? Ive done some rearch, but only on wiring that needs to switched over. And pinouts for the standalone. I tried reading the link forum, its divided up into ecu models, but not specific to honda. So ive been browsing the g4x folder for information on their forum. So far, i feel like ive should made the move along time ago.

black runs and drives good. Just need to dial down boost in fourth gear. Wont be switching over to the link ems until late fall when its not being driven. Will need a serious retune anyway afterwards. And thats definitely a bill i dont want to pay yet lol

 

Small update

Starting working on the few projects on black. Thanks to GEN2LS i now have a victor x manifold. I spent first day porting and tapering the throttle body opening. So that there is no step. I then cleaned up the casting on the runners. Finally getting every thing switched over. A few pics of it completed and size comparisons.








Next one is a size comparison



There was some gasket issuses. It was Heated an formed to the skunk2 port shaping. So had to take out the sander to knock that edge down flat again


Finally, i snapped a quick pic of just the intake ports being cleaned up. Most of the port work on this pure tuning spec h ported head in on the exhaust side. Also had the combustion chamber opend to 84mm. Kinda tempted to pull the exhaust manifold again. Love looking at the work


While the intake manifold is off, i started working on the oil cooler setup. Currently waiting on low profile 10an 45 degree fittings from lightning motorsports to clear the water pipe. Then ill load pics up of the finished product. Still need to fab and weld a bracket up to hold and mount the oil cooler. Finally jumping into the wiring and setuping up of the link g4x ems. Which will be pretty easy. Spent a month studying the user manual prior and reading up. Will go into detail at that point.

Also...., hondata s300 v2, hondata CPR kit(no coils lol) and the intake manifold assembly will sold soon. Pm if interested

 

Ive had bad luck recently with those thermal gaskets and been using felpro paper gaskets. They kept leaking by the water nipple for some reason.

 

Hmmm, was there raised edges like i had creating an uneven surface? Or broken somewhere around the water jacket?

 

No raised edges. I used the same gasket for years and it randomly leaked. I then bought another and it also leaked in the same spot. I switched to the paper gasket and its been fine. Theyre only 5 bucks but hate scraping them off

 

Weird

 

nice to see some progress.

Im thinking i moght just part my car out now. Pay bills, have less projects.... My wife hates the car and it gives me nothing but issues.
If i do a build in the future it would be a turbo K

 

Im trying. Would much rather not work on the car at times. Being in industrial maintenace, im turning wrenches all day. Laying or in an uncomfortable position doing electrical for hours. Kills the joy of working on the car. But im in the mood and season for it. Just busy all the time.

Whaaaat? Id suggest just selling the car entirely. To get it completely gone and over with. And not lingering parts, and a stripped chassis forever

 

Got the oil sandwich plate, correct fittings, k&p oil filter, and intake manifold sqaured away. Water pipe needed to be dented in alittle bit. Intake manifold ear underneath its water outlet fitting needed to be shaved down. Contacting didnt allow all the holes to line up. Test fitted everything, then realized i forgot the stupid charge piping prolly wont directly line up. Also got the link ecu installed into honda ecu casing. Packed up the old p28/s300 and CPR kit. Finally just kinda placed the oil cooler in the general area where im going to be installing it.

 

Heck yeah! Loving it. I am very excited to hear about the link ecu tuning and general performance of it.

I offered my whole car to buddy for 5k he said if i was serious he will buy it. I dont know.... LOL.

 

Finally downloaded the program lol. Have to have my tuner unlock it this week. Sucks not having the time i need now to work on everything. When i did have the time, i wasnt interested in working on it lol.

Thats five grand in your pocket. Should be gettin more due to the market. But i understand the need to want it gone. I did some calculation on my receipts last weekend. Ive spent over 47000 on the chassis. Thats doesnt even include comsumables either. So id atleast want enough to get me an s2000

 

Cut, bent, and prefabbed some stock to weld together a bracket for mounting the oil cooler. Im gona weld it up later this week. Also got the unlock code for the link ecu.

 

****** lawnmower wouldnt start today. So i decided to finish up the engine bay. Welded, painted, and mounted the oil cooler and its bracket. Also install the victor x and everything that goes to or near the intake manifold. Dont mind the dust and dirt lol. Now just gota order fluid, axle, and do the interior work

 

Test fitted and mounting the power distribution blocks location. Was gona start running jumpers on the terminals. But age got to me, had to call it quits for the day.

 

Im using a couple of these for power and ground distribution

https://www.customconnectorkits.com/...8aAgQKEALw_wcB

 

What the hell... that was for a connector lol. I did see that they have a fused panel. Which would be decent in some locations. That one would be ideal for like a floor plated power source. I want everything clean and tucked away. But like the plastic cover for the one that i purchased from parts-express.com. my switched ignition sources were already fused with an inline fuse to the IG2 slot. I just have to extending the output side of that inline fuse to the distribution block. Then run ring terminals for all the jumpers and out going power. Fork terminals leaves too much of a gamble of backing out and loosing your source in high vibration enviorments. I just wish i had another ideal than the bulky ring terminals. Like a cleaner wire fastener for terminals. But im drawing a blank due to crazy allergies

 

Its not a connector its 1 power in and 11 out.

 

Heres another more expensive option

https://www.wirecare.com/interest/au...UwCIVB50V-9ixQ

 

I could potentially look into a connector type. For some reason if the stupid terminal screws back out. And the wiring grounds out.

 

Got oil in the engine and filled the oil cooler. However, the lines for the oil cooler were not filled. Because they were already mounted, securely routed away from everything thing. Then bolted the intake manifold down. That being said, there may be a moment when oil pressure drops when the oil tstat opens, fills the lines, then pushes oil from "out" side of the cooler. Priming the system wont do anything because its reactionary from the temp. So ill just let the lines doing its thing from idle with lack of engine load.

Got the distribution block jumpers ran a couple weeks. Fast forward to today, got the wiring on the ecu side done aswell. Which wasnt very much to do after studying everything. Cut the wiring an inch below the hondatas cpr driver box. Obd1 big and small ecu pins with pigtails were ordered from HAmotorsports. Then proceed to solder and pin as the following.

Coil1-a22
Coil2-a18
Coil3-a14
Coil-a10
BBG-a20(aux4 on the link ecus pin ID)
tach-a21(potentially)

wideband-d14(moved from d10 to d14 due link ecu requirement.
Pins altc and d10 are not connected on the ecu board. Aswell as a bunch of other functions link doesnt deem necessary. According to the link forums a tach booster may be needed. But i think that may be on an acutal obd1 chassis and distributor. Therefor after converting to the g4x ecu, im reading that the rach signal may not be there. However, i remember before the wireworx millspec harness, i had to wire the tach signal to the other icm pin. And that got me my tach signal. So after startup im going try the tach signal to the a21 pigtail. Which was blank now from the removal on the hondata CPR driver box.

Edit...
Woke up in the middle of the nite thinking about my work. Then thought about that bbg signal wire. That was done years ago using a big pin, where a small pin should be used. So thats gona get redone today with some of the small pin pigtails i ordered from HAmotorsports

 

Are you obd1 or 2?
That soldering at the ecu is not the best idea. Use open barrel crimps or just order new pins. Theyre like .10 cents each or less.

This place has most of the stuff for our cars
Motorcycle Terminals, Connectors, and Wiring Accessories

 

Obd2 engine side connectors, obd1 ecu connectors, p28 casing, link g4x ecu

ill have to remember that link for electrical hardware for the future. Theres a big chance ill be need to order an obd2b distributor end connector. For when i convert to hall effect cam sensor. Then removing the dizzy. Wiring into the cyp i believe. And get my voltages from distributor power. Which is gona be a whole other ordeal. Since my coils arent getting power from oem power source at the distributor. Wireworx ran their power from the main relay i believe. Power to the distributor is left blank. Still not entirely sure not how its gona get done. Only researched alittle bit on it. Was actually gona talk to my tuner first about it at my retune session.

Precrimped small pin ecu pigtails from HAmotorsports were used. Why is it that you think soldering is more worst off than crimps. Im really curious. With my background my experience working with robotics, nearly a decade of industrial maintenance, and eight or nine certificates towards my education(two or three of those in electric equipment), ive learned, been told, and showed why soldering is preferred. Hell even tech support from equipment i work on recommends electrical repairs to be soldered. Not crimped.

 

I'm with Pepe - I've gone to almost exclusively using open barrel crimps. Open up a Honda wiring harness and show me where solder was used - almost nowhere. OEM junctions are done with open barrel crimps, and every pin termination is basically an open barrel crimp. Don't confuse crimps with butt connectors - there is a difference. For 18 AWG TXL, I find TE Connectivity PN 41974 works great, and is my go-to.