Awesome !!!!!

 

Nice update Mac well wrote I must say

 

Great choice of pads and spot on for their use and behavior

 

this build is so damn awesome!

 

I am assuming the rotor choice is an aesthetic one?

We know that drilled rotors dont do anything for performance with modern brake pads and can form stress cracks from track use.

 

Love that Wavetrac, swear by it.

 

I completely understand. I myself am using Plain Jane OEM Blanks for my NSX calipers and Cobalt friction pads for the track/street (I switch pads from street to track). Like I said from the beginning, not ALL of Project Ghost's parts choice and management were within my reach. Marc had a few of these parts already ( like the rotors) so we thought it would be more wasteful to NOT use them. Plus it'll tell us whether or not they actually are of value or not. So we will see.

 

UPDATE:

Yes, yes, still more parts gathering, but we're just about ready to get things ready for the final install in a couple of weeks. Here's what arrived:

MSD Ignition Coil M235


Sparkplug wires from MSD - This is because he wanted black for theme


External Distributor Cap for the new external coil


Mallory EZ Digital 6 Ignition system






And while he was at it.. he also picked up his Carbon Kevlar Hood and Lip - It took over 10 months, but that was due to the distributor's negligence

 

Nice Mac, i might have to copy that exact ignition setup. I have a question, for some reason are those spark plug wires needed with that MSD distributor cap or will any B series wires work ? i'm thinking about the fitment into the distributor cap.

 

No, you can use the NGK blues with that distributor cap and rotor, or other B-series wires (though I recommend NGK personally). He only matched because he wanted Black wires instead of the traditional blue NGKs.

 

Thank you

 

Oh yeah, I forgot. The Chase Bays, Fuel filter replacement kit.. This eliminates the bulky OEM fuel filter on the firewall to allow more room for our mission

Of course, we're going with the Outlaw Engineering Spacer kit for the GS-R

 

i also copied this ignition setup except i used the summit racing cdi box, the mallory coil and the summit racing 8.5mm wires because they also are black. thanks for the advice mac.

 

Glad its workin' out for you. I still have my mallory system after 5 years. still works like a charm.

 

havent received it yet, but im sure it will work mint. its nice not knowing alot about some things and still being able to make an informed and educated decision based on your experiences with what works and what doesnt. much appreciated sir.

 

what are the advantages of the spacer kit?

 

I have it used on Project SHE and 2 other projects.

Here is Project SHE
http://marketplace.honda-tech.com/sh...2915107&page=3

the composite material IMHO is much more stout than the Hondata or PWJDM material and uses multiple gaskets on each of side of it to be able to make intake air that little bit much cooler.

I had a Hondata gasket on my personal Integra, and after a long time friend of mine used it on his H1 Honda EG for several seasons, I was sold. I actually removed my Hondata IM gasket , and replaced the TB gasket as well.

Here's a few notes from Outlaw Engineering are here.

http://www.outlawengineering.com/techframe.html

For the lazy...

"Outlaw Engineering ThermoBlok spacers are thermal insulating replacements for your stock intake manifold and throttlebody gaskets. Made from a heat blocking phenol resin laminate, ThermoBlok spacers increase power from your engine by keeping the intake cooler.


Key benefits:

» Produces a cooler intake manifold and intake charge resulting in MORE POWER
» A cooler intake charge also reduces the tendency for detonation, meaning ignition timing can be
advanced for MORE POWER
» Almost invisible modification, looks stock for the stealth factor
» Better gas mileage
» Replaces stock gaskets
» Reusable over and over
» No undesirable side effects

Want to know more? Read on…

Most are well aware that the reciprocating internal combustion engine is simply a highly modified air pump. While many avenues exist for boosting the power output of an engine, most focus on ways to increase the volumetric efficiency of the system. Ported heads, larger diameter exhausts, headers, and bigger throttlebodies all serve to decrease airflow resistance. The greater the amount of air that passes through an engine, the greater the power that engine can produce.

FACT: Every 5°F reduction in temperature increases the density of the air and therefore the power by
1%.

Why? From chemistry class, we remember PV=nRT, the Perfect Gas Law. This simple equation signifies that the volume of a gas is directly proportional to the temperature of that gas, in this case air. Cold air is denser than hot air. Why is this important to the performance enthusiast? Simple, your engine can ingest more air when it is cooler and denser; more air can be mixed with more fuel, which releases MORE POWER.

For example, a 150hp engine can gain an additional 3 hp for every 10°F the temperature drops. In modern EFI engines, the intake charge is drawn through an intake tube, filter, MAF (or VAF, etc.) and throttle body and into the aluminum intake manifold. The manifold is made up of a plenum and runners that direct the air into the intake ports in the cylinder head. However, during its residence in the intake, the air charge picks up unwanted heat, which increases its volume. By blocking the heat transferred from the engine, ThermoBlok spacers reduce the temperature of the intake manifold and therefore the air entering the engine. This search for cooler air is the reason behind cold air intake tubes, intercoolers, and icing down the manifold between quarter mile runs.
Hot Intake = Power Loss! Cool Intake = Power Gain!

An additional benefit is that cooler air allows an engine to have a higher resistance to knock and ping. The engine computer can then dial in more ignition timing advance and even boost in supercharged applications.

But how do ThermoBlok spacers keep the intake manifold cooler?

Aluminum is a great thermal conductor. As a result, heat is very efficiently transferred from the hot aluminum cylinder head and throttlebody to the aluminum intake manifold. By placing a thermal insulating material between them, this heat conduction can be greatly reduced.

Hot Intake = Power Loss! Cool Intake = Power Gain!

ThermoBlok spacers are made from a laminated phenolic composite with a thermal conductivity of 0.29 W/m*K. Aluminum on the other hand has a thermal conductivity of 150 W/m*K, more than 500 times higher. You must also remember that there is a gasket, commonly steel (20 W/m*K thermal conductivity), placed between the manifold and head. Replacing the 0.025" thick steel gasket with a .250" ThermoBlok thick spacer will conduct an amazing 688 times less heat (yes, that's nearly 70,000% reduction!).

The ThermoBlok spacer material also exhibits high stiffness and compressive strength, can withstand temperatures up to nearly 300°F, and has a thermal expansion coefficient very similar to aluminum to increase sealing capabilities".

Read more on their site for charts and other information.

 

If you are no longer using the internal distributor coil, but still utilizing the factory wiring harness, are you going to disconnect/bypass the coil power so it plain-and-simply does not fire?

P.S. Good reads in this whole thread! thumbs up!

 

Pretty much. just disconnect the main coil and use the leads to connect to the external. My buddy will make a two prong plug that allows the original ignitor to be reconnected should something fail on the external coil. So we won't actually remove the internal coil, just disconnect it.

 

are u guys also going to use an ignitor bypass?

 

I'm not going to, neither is Ghost. don't know about others. If the ignition box or coil fails, I want to be able to create a quick connect back to the original ignitor.. so we tend to leave it in the distributor.

 

The ignitor can be left in the distributor and till run the ignitor bypass. Just takes some handy wiring.

 

Just a small little update since its been a while.

I did a final check through of my collected parts and loaded them into the vehicle. Lets just say that I didn't shed a tear at all. It seems that somehow I now have a lot of room in my garage. I already started a spread sheet but I have been slacking on adding in the new info. I'm not really afraid to see the total since I know whats being put in there.

The knife has been summoned and brought to the wheel for sharpening. Surgery is commencing and im so ready. It feels like a weight has been lifted off my shoulders. Its finally becoming a reality and not a vision. No more parts laying on my garage floor.

I will try to snap a few "before" and "during" pictures for everyone to feast on. I have a great camera, I just forget to use it.

 

One bad a$$ car!!! A lot of info too thanks guys keep up the good work

 

For some reason, I missed this post. That's cool. I think we'll see about picking this up..