They seem to help with a bit more upper-mid range a bit more than the GS-Rs from my experience. especially from the powerband of about 5400-9000rpms. Seemed a bit more linear in between the gears than even the GS-Rs.

 

Good info thanks How is the build comming? Pics Pics Pics!!

 

I only have them of the cams that I repolished and Carbon lubricated for storage right now. winter time.. Like I said. this build is a LOT SLOWER than what you guys are used to from me. I'm sorry..

 

The carbon prevent rust?

 

Absolutely... But they'll also be stored in vacuum bags until install in about a week

 

CTR's on the S366 build I did a while back.

14psi and conservative:


Look at that band! Motor just wanted to eat all day!

 

nice build man, black intercooler= sleeper

 

Finally an update..

Thanks to Renown-Performance (Thegatekeeper14) and Greg@ Go-autowerks, we hit some pay dirt on some new parts!!!

Clutchmasters FX400 6 puck clutch



Aeromotive 340lph Intank Fuel Pump



FIC 1100cc injectors High Impedence



The DEI Wrap for the manifold and downpipe are on the way as well.
And what it will look like when installed




Next step is from B&R Fittings. For the Water lines to go from the bottom of the radiator and the front freeze plug, to the catch can setup at the back of the block.

In black of course


Adapter fitting


And the water line kit GT3584R


This will be by the end of march. then assembly and shakedown. Japanese Automotive will be the chosen tuner with his AEM EMS, that he got as part of the exchange program for a V1.

 

looks good

 

I wish I could just send you my car, a list of parts I want, and a blank check, because not only do you build one hell of an engine, you make one hell of a build thread I would love to read a build thread you make while building my engine and stuff, I could read your build threads over and over. So much info in these, and awesome builds.

I feel like I sound like a kiss ***, but if anyone deserves to have their *** kissed it's Mac

 

Yummy, yummy

 

I would keep an eye out for that Aeromotive fuel pump. Mine took a dump on me after 500 miles of 93.

 

I've got one as well. No problems yet (probably 1K miles). But I'll keep an eye on it.

 

It's was probably just a one off...

 

Doesn't the intake cam look more like an ITR than a CTR? If it was a CTR it should have ridges on the intake cam just like the exhaust cam.

 

I got the cams from Nagano when I went to visit some friends some years ago. Not sure what to tell you. (perhaps picture angle is off) I pulled them from the CTR in the driveway when he went with Jun Camshafts, put them in my luggage and came back to America.

Zya nee.

 

Perhaps it is the angle. Very nice looking build though.

 

Feel free to send the car our Via Renown Performance.

Thanks for the shout out Mac. I am excited to see this thing done!

Im a big DA fan! Got one myself. Gonna be rocking a STC turbocharger as well.

 

Updates?

 

Host it on Google's Picasa, i don't think they have bandwidth issue... Also, resize your pictures to 1024x768, or maybe 1600ish, they come down to about 500k-800k instead of 2mb.

 

Ok. Here we go.. Here's what he picked up, just recently...

Hawk HP+ Brake pads. Considering the power he's making, and the fact that this is still for street use, he's going to need a nice in-between pad that has enough metal for great stopping power from higher speeds, but at the same time, doesn't require a lot of time to heat the pad up before its of any use. The problem that people have when they try to use a FULL RACE pad on the street is that for the first few minutes of driving the car, they actually wold not be able to stop very well, possibly to cause an accident, because the ceramic hasn't heated up quickly enough.

At the same time, if you have a brake pad that stops almost TOO well, unfortunately, its the surest time that you'll get rear-ended by someone who doesn't have the same good stopping power that you do. I've seen several incidents where people use a full-race pad on the street, and get rear-ended by every day drivers because of the fact that even though they saw the guys tail lights, and they reacted appropriately, (yes, even though most tailgate you), they physically didn't have the means to stop with enough distance to avoid hitting you; thus, this is what we decided:



This is a little more aggressive than the HPS line that is out (which is used by most NA guys anyway,) but is effective, and still allows any daily driving duty available. They squeal a tiny bit more than your everyday pad, but not enough to be annoying.

He will be using Motul RBF 600 Brake Fluid to work with the new brake system, as he already has Goodrich Stainless Brake Lines



Next on the list that he's receiving is the EXEDY HF01 Flywheel to match with his Clutchmasters FX400 clutch, WaveTrac Helical LSD, and MFactory 4.785 final drive.



Renown-performance took care of him again with a slightly lighter flywheel that will transition him between gears a bit more quickly than stock. (remember, "Ghost" is not a drag racer) so there's no need to worry about whether or not it is "too light".

I've also used this flywheel and it is fantastic. Chromoly, resurfacable, and very durable for the need. The average use is about 8-10 years, and since this car will never be sold, why not get the good stuff?

Ghost picked up a set of PasswordJDM Slotted/X-drilled rotors before we set out on this project together, so he'll be using these for now. These are the street series and not the race series rotors that they offer.



They are supposedly made in the USA, which is rather Ironic

Now. For Boost control. There is no "boost-by-gear" being setup here, and nor do we care about it, for this type of racing, but since he has the AEM V2, he'll be going for full-throttle shifting when necessary. Again, he (like all of us old farts) use our foot and our brains to be able to control traction when needed. Since Boost-by-gear does no good on the circuit, GHOST is using the Profect B Spec II Boost controller w/ remote switch.

GReddy Profec B Spec 2 Boost controller




He was amazed that a silver one was available, as they are technically discontinued, but he wanted to match his Silver turbo-timer.

GReddy Remote switch - to go between low and high boost from the steering wheel during events, where it may be needed for that temporary extra "punch". In Japan, its called "Scramble" boost.


In this example,On several in-car camera shots, you can see the infamous SUN AUTO/HRS Garage Cyber EVO and its driver Eiji "Tarzan" Yamada is using an The GReddy Remote switch on his time attack run at TSUKUBA LAP (3:13, 3:20, 3:29. 3:40)


The reason why we used this over the AEM "Truboost" setup is because of the fact that the truboost, though it is technically "electronic" really is a boost controller that acts like a manual one, in which in only controls duty cycle, but is "electronic" because it can be controlled via laptop. It does work well, however, its solenoid does not have a fuzzy-logic based stepper motor in which one can actually control "gain" in addition to the target boost. You cannot precisely set up the controller to work with the turbocharger in order to literally alter the wastegate open timing so that the gate opens at the very last second; that feature literally allows for the turbocharger to "spool" faster based upon a set boost pressure to start opening to relieve excess pressure.

Now. I'm not talking about an insane amount of "spool" difference, but it can range anywhere from 200-600rpms depending upon the turbo and wastegate spring used. The AEM one on the other hand, from my use and experience with both controllers, is nice, and easily able to integrate into the ECU that you're using, but lacks in-car control on the fly; you have to either pop the laptop open if you need to change setting slightly (Say due to a colder weather condition), and ensure that the duty cycle is set for that particular range of boost. Here, there's no need for that. Set it, forget it.. and change it if its not enough or too much while riding comfortably in the car without needing a laptop or whatever.

This is for those that plan to circuit the car or use the car in the street with direct control over the amount of boost used. Since the tuner will base the tune on a range of pressures, we would (for example only, start from 0-15psi on Setting A, and with 93 octane fuel, then continue from 15psi-XXpsi with the race fuel.) If he has race fuel in it that entire day, he can switch on the fly without the need of worrying whether or not the amount is enough to use. He can see it on the fly and adjust is necessary, as long as it is within the tuning map's parameters

SPOON CAM GEARS



Yes, yes I know.. Rather "ricer" from you young guy's standards, when there are cheaper versions out there. But you gotta remember. This is the stuff WE 90's guys grew up with (Owner of Ghost is a bit of a young-old-head, too). So he knew he MUST have a set of some of them to continue the history of a great company. I even stated the Skunk2s would go with his "theme" a bit more.. but he wanted SPOON... so we're getting it.. He's calling to confirm. These will go with the CTR cams that he obtained.

In addition, we're becoming more "JDM" than most on this site.. I don't care what you say... This is next.

SPOON SPORTS -BLACK SHIFT ****


SPOON SPORTS STEERING WHEEL




Now now, don't worry about the security aspect, let's just say we've got properly layered security, a beautiful Rott, a weapons owner, and dangerous cat in the house..

Keeping you posted.

 

Very nice!!! Quick stupid question, wouldnt the Profec button get in the way of proper steering in those quick circuits? I made my own button for $7 :D and have it on my shifter ****. Just seems better to not get in the way when things happen fast.

 

Actually no. The contour of the button can go on the lower or upper end of the steering wheel. I've positioned mine, just on the right just below where my hand rests in the "10 & 2" position. Its also strapped into place.

 

Awesome updates Mac. Can't wait for the final product

 

You and me both. This will still take a while.