No. There is no ground by the throttlebody cable bracket.
The additional thick guaged blue wires you're seeing is one of about 6 additional grounds locations from the BUDDY CLUB grounding kit we're using. I have that grounding kit on all of our projects.


Voltage Stabilizer and Grounding system
Please see the previous pages for details.

 

Finally saw the video (youtube blocked at work). Looks really good man. Sounds great too. I love those mufflers definitely going to do that route next time I do exhaust on something. Are there any other resonators in the system?

Also, arent those mushroom filters known to collapse easy? temporary solution?

 

no other resonators are in the system. None. Straight pipe from the downpipe back. Not even a catalytic converter

What you see is a GENUINE HKS hexogonal polymer filter, none of that eBay foam garvage or some knock-off. The real HKS has never collpsed, and are still used in the time attack GT-R right now. Yes, I'm a JDM aftermarket snob

 

Yes you are correct, but i did not say cable bracket. I said throttle cable stay. There is no path to ground when the valve cover is isolated by rubber. You have your ground strap in a throttle stay location only used used by JDM B series chassis (not a ground). USDM chassis have this threaded hole, but nothing in it from the factory. I also run my ground to the intake manifold to shock tower upright, hides it better.

 

Ok. Thank you for the input.

 

Ok. a few more photos as we put this together from (Pick your year after 2012!!)
Some of these items were all on the owner of Ghost for at the time (about 2014) super-mega "tucked" engine bays are all the rage, but we were trying to tell him that just an engine bay cleanup was needed. A full or even partial tuck for a turbocharger application would make things difficult if he ever had to diagnose a problem.



So, although we helped him with some of the "tuck", I wasn't a fan of some of the parts he collected in the meantime: That's the one thing about having a project sit too long, even when you have a plan in place; you wind up thinking too much. I know it's happened to me on more than one occasion. We wound up paying for some of this overthinking later.

-Chase Bay's 40/40 Proportioning Valve - Honestly, bad idea on a street/circuit monster in which you're not changing both the front and rear calipers to much larger sizes proportionately. For 90% of us in this category, stick with your stock 60/40 valve.
-Password JDM "3 core" Radiator - Again, Bad idea for a turbo car. The core and endtanks were so large, that no matter where we positioned it in the bay, there wasn't enough room for it, AND a turbocharger, even if facing the other direction, because it was almost too thick to fit. So, we changed that to a Skunk2 Alpha Radiator that we anodized black. (Don't worry, we went back to the Password Radiator Stay.





We then went to the oil cooler installation. (List of parts on a prior page) We mounted it at a 90 Degree angle at the front engine bay chassis beam, having the -10AN lines heading up and back to the Mocal Sandwich plate the oil filter. It sits lower than the oil filter location and still gets access to air.

Mounting on chassis beam 90 degrees

Location compared to wastegate


Now, with the car still being messed with, we decided that instead of going with the original Hawk-HPS brake parts and lines, we knew that the DPHA caliper set would be even nicer, and make a good look. The best (and worst part) about this simple-yet-effective system, is that it still uses the 10.3" OEM sized rotors that fit on the Civic knuckle. No one wanted to convert to 5 lug or change spindles, so this was the best thing to do. BUT, since Ghost already had the rear calipers from a 2000 SI EM1, that he wanted to originally convert, we thought it couldn't hurt to use these. As long as you use the BP-20 pads for a turbo application, and not the ones that come with the kit, you're good to go.


Wilwood DPHA (GM) front kit still fits even 15" OEM wheels.








Here's a small video I found that Mike made during that time. No music, no talking, just what was done, and we were tired from that weekend.

 

Nice!

 

Did yall upgrade the fuel line? I'm looking at going e85 with sleeved b18c to about 500hp, I want to change the line from yank to rail to regulator to return, what size line and pump you recommend? Also, that buddy club grounding kit just to be assured you have a good ground all over?

 

I really like it. Why you opted for the reverse turbo mounting? I was thinking that noone was doing it this way because of the harsh downpipe angles.

I really like the long intake filter tho and thats the only way to have a PROPER length of straightish tube after the filter.

 

No. The fuel lines were not completely upgraded to larger sizes. This car will be using 93, C16 & Meth-water, so no need to replace all of those lines.

An AEM 320lph fuel pump was used among with an Aeromotive fuel filter.

The grounding kit easily helps us retain steady idle, consistency of spark, and better ignition starts & ignition distribution with the MSD external coil and ignition box.

Spoolin' made great downpipes even the positions that were going to us A/C like we originally intended.

 

Thank you for the reply, I looked at the buddy club pic and give you give a quick rundown on how it is install? I'm assuming the power wire to battery terminal and black wire to ground or negative terminal, but as for the other wires? I have relocated my battery to behind the passenger seat, odyssey.


Also, what size fuel line do you think for a power goal of 500 on e85. I was looking at -8 and a walbro 420? pump, also if you upgrade you inlet lines, do you need to upgrade your return line all the way back to the tank?

 

1. There are 3 ground wires that come with the kit. The ground wires can be identified by blue rubber heads each at different lengths. Connect one side of the grounding wire to the ground kit.


2. Locate your engine’s alternator, throttle body sensor, and valve cover. These will be use as grounding points for the ground kit.

3. Locate an installation point for the stabilizer/grounding unit on top of the engine’s battery. This will be used for the following step. Please do not mount the unit yet. Just place it at the location first.

4. Once placed at the location. Measure the ground cable (blue rubber heads) to determine which cable to use for which grounding point (alternator, throttle body sensor, and valve cover). Once measured, place the cable as if you would route it to the grounding point.

5. Loosen a bolt at a time for the grounding points and place a grounding cable to a point at a time and tighten the bolt. Do this one at a time till all 3 grounding points are installed securely.

6. Once all 3 grounding points are tightened. Use the double sided tape that comes with the unit to tape the unit to the side of the engine’s battery or use small braket that comes with kit. (You will need to replace the double sided tape every time you replace the battery.)

7. Connect the positive and negative battery grounding cables to the battery. (Red for POSITIVE + and Black for NEGATIVE -) ***Please connect the positive cable (red) then the negative cable (black)***

Note: The battery does not need to be disconnected from the engine. This been an electrical installation, please take extra care when installing the kit not to cross connect any of the battery’s positive or negative cables

 

-8AN for both would be good. You want to change both for E85. A Walboro 450lph would work just fine.

 

 

Had another question if you could help. I was looking at the aeromotive 13101 fpr and it only has two -8 inlet outlet and the return is a -6, sooooo would you just use a -6 to -8 step up and then run the dash 8 line or do i need to keep looking for a fpr with a -8 return. I believe aero has a -10 inlet outlet and -8 return was a 100 bucks more was just unsure if it was necessary. Thanks My headache below but need to finally finish this year.

 

Ok. So I've been sidetracked a bit. Getting a few things that I was behind in the pipeline and such, So, I'll add a bit more from the project... Let's see, we already did brake upgrades, so I'll show a few exterior photos and I'll do my best to explain what was done. This project has taken way longer than it needed to, but cie la vie.. It's working well as he goes through break-in and all.

So, I guess, next let's look at the cylinder head. It originally had CTR cams (yes, not 00-01 ITRs, the real McCoy) with:
Supertech HD Valvetrain incl. Retainers (70lbs seat pressure)
Bronze Valve guides
REVs Flat top valves

But, He wanted to join the GSC Power-Division T1 camshaftclub, so he took everything off and substituted the entire valvesprings, retainers, and valve seals to GSC matching components..






He, like myself, LOVE our TODA RACING LTD Cam gears w/ the GSC extended bolts/washers


Can't go without these. Even replaced them with new hardware

 

All the front and rear suspension components were either upgraded to Skunk2 or Hardrace components, with the suspension forks and trailing arms blasted and powder coated.


Function 7 LCAs with Whiteline coilovers w/ Sprint springs

Rear brake caliper conversion

Suspension forks reconditioned

Skunk2 replacement upper LCAs

Reconditioned and painted spindles

Function 7 Anti-sway brace and 26mm rear sway bar

 

We wanted to keep the foglights (upgraded to LED units) and still work w/ a full sized Garrett 20.8" x 10.3" x 3" intercooler for the Civic, so the only way to do that was to have HayoshFab change the endtanks up so that the I/C pipes wouldn't interfere with the foglights.


modified foglight housings

New Intercooler before cerakoting

Finished Intercooler

Mounted with the support beam

Changed foglight housings to carbon kevlar thanks to Password JDM (Circa 2010)

LIKE A GLOVE!!!

 

Now, the turbo. Boy, was that a challenge. It was all about power, at first.. First it was an Interceptor GT3588R that was refurbished, because he wanted over 600whp. But with only a 1.8 litre with no re-enforcement (No CSS WERX, no Sleeving), we found another alternative.... Well, one of the 1st alternatives, anyway.


GTX3576R Gen 1 on the engine

A closer look at the GTX3576R Gen 1

Once he realized that torque was the answer, and not power, Ghost got sensible and reduced himself down to a smaller VelociRaptor (58lbs/min) from over 66lbs/min.

TR3030R VelociRaptor - recoated in White (Not shown yet)

Well, after all of that, here are the final photos of the car as of Today...






Emotion Work Kai White wheels with Carbon Kevlar Hood, Front spoiler lip & Foglight assemblies with 99-00 SIR-II headlights


Work Emotion Kai wheels with Falken RT-615 215/45/16 tyres

Not worried about the license plate, the plate is old and gone anyway.


AeroCatch hood latches w/ Civic SIR-II headlights.

 

Very clean and complete build, perfect for a fun car that can still be driven on the street.

Interesting solution for the fog lights. The TR3030 looks like an excellent unit, and should satisfy any power goals he has for that chassis.

 

Gorgeous ride, for sure!

 

Keep that HKS filter well oiled! A couple years back that pretty little filter clogged the flow meter on my STi several times. That filter is notorious for drying up and crumbling. Unfortunately for me I didn't know my car came with the filter.

Oh yeah! Car looks good!

 

Thank you. I never had any issues with degradation with the original HKS hexogonal insert. [So I am curious as to where that info came from, so perhaps I'm just lucky]
Only the "spongy" knock offs ever seemed top have that issue.., as this is only the first replacement in 15 years. But I'll definately keep that in mind, for future reference.

 

I did have one that lasted for 9 years and transferred between 4 cars thanks to periodic cleaning and oiling but the pic below shows what almost killed my '08 STi Hatch. This is the same multi-layer filter that you have. Symptoms of failure were all over the map so I decided to just check everything in the car after the second occurrence. First time I thought I had a bad MAF so I gave it proper cleaning and let it air dry for 2 hours. Second occurrence seemed like a bad fuel pump, that is a notorious GRB STi failure, after cleaning the MAF again. Eventually I pulled the air box apart and found the crumbling filter.I cannot find the pics of my friend's RX-7 filter that died but it was a brand new replacement filter, purchased from an authorized HKS dealer, that fell apart 2 months after purchase. He was really OCD about filters, oil changes and detailing the car. I have actually seen quite a few of the HKS filters fail over here. I thought the other failures were flukes until it happened to me.

Caveat: I have no idea how long this filter had been on this pampered 32k km (20k miles) car when I purchased but the previous owner drove the car less than 1200km in a 2 year period. I know this because mileage (km in my case) gets documented between inspections.

 

Wow, just read through... awesome build.