CroteTurbo

I got a question that I know someone will tell me that I should have done that before but:

I got a b18A lsvtec turbo with SRP forged piston on stock rods.
The engine does around 300whp on dyno at around 11psi on T3T4 60 trim.
I like to get more, but not if I need to rebuild the engine and I think that my b18a rods are at there max.
300whp is a lot of power for a dailly driver car, but I'll do some drag racing this summer and I like to get good time out of it.
I like to know if it's doable to put eagle rods in it without honning the cylinders, just changing the rod bearings. I'll put the pistons back in exactly as they get out.

I know that I should have done that wile I had everything apart, but time/money make me do it like that.

If it's not possible, I'll do the best drag time I can with what I have, and build a new block the right way.

nonvtecD

you really shouldnt remove pistons without replacing the rings and new rings like fresh cylinder walls so... I would wait and do it the right way.

EJ1 wilcox

You really shouldn't do that.

If you are going to pull the pistons out, you might as well give it a quick hone and use new rings. You could even hone it by hand and leave the block in the car.

NJIN BUILDR

The is no logical reason you can't remove the pistons,change the rods and put them right back in.There is nothing magical that happens to the rings if they're not in the bores.Honing the block in the car with no way to correctly clean the block bothers me more than putting the old rings back in.
Glenn

Scott_Tucker

If you are using the same pistons there is no reason to touch the rings or cylinder walls. Do a compression and leak-down test before you do it though and make sure all cylinders are pretty close.

Remember that changing the rod length will change your compression ratio. If you put in shorter rods you will have a lower compression ratio. If you put in longer rods you will have a higher compression ratio and have to think about things such as quench distance and valve interference. Check the deck clearance when you have the head off. If you could still have a close quench distance (maybe use a thinner head gasket?) you could lower the compression ratio and pump up the boost a little.

GWInquisitor14

if the cylinder walls and rings are still good when you put everything back together, it shouldn't be a problem.

RACEPAK

if your cylinders have a raised border "stair" on them you should hone it otherwise you'r gonna brake the rings when you will tap in the pistons !!!

CroteTurbo

Nice info here guys thanks

I have not make my mind yet.

I plane to put the same rod lenth as stock, so don't bother about valve clearance.

If I do it I'll chek for cylinder "stair"

And I don't plan to hone the cylinder with the engine in the car, I would want to clean it after a hone.

Someone ever take pistons out and in after without hone and ring change with succes.

Schister66

if you're going through the work of tearing the engine down, just save a little money and get new pistons and rings. You might as well do it the right way. Plus, most B series engines are weak in the ringlands, not the rods.......something to think about. If you were to cheap out at all, you should get pistons, not rods. Also, a cross hone isn't that hard. You just need one of those ball things on a drill bit (name escapes me this early in the morning) and cross hone will pouring oil or some lubricant on it...its not that hard.......

Soccerking3000

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schister66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you're going through the work of tearing the engine down, just save a little money and get new pistons and rings. You might as well do it the right way. Plus, most B series engines are weak in the ringlands, not the rods.......something to think about. If you were to cheap out at all, you should get pistons, not rods. Also, a cross hone isn't that hard. You just need one of those ball things on a drill bit (name escapes me this early in the morning) and cross hone will pouring oil or some lubricant on it...its not that hard.......</TD></TR></TABLE>

you read? he has pistons already...

and its called a dingleberry

Scott_Tucker

It's probably listed as a bottle-brush hone, not a dingleberry. The parts counter guys might look at you wierd if you ask them if they have dingleberrys.

If you do decide to re-ring the engine to freshen it up there are a couple of precautions you should take, some of which people have already mentioned but I wanted to give you the correct terminology and procedure.

The 'stair' that develops at the top of the cylinder is called a ring ridge and on a lower mileage engines if it has one it is probably made of carbon and can be scraped off using a 'ridge reamer'. You can scrape it by hand but you always risk raising an edge on the cylinder and damaging the ring on removal.

Before you use a bottle brush hone, make sure it is the proper grit for your type of rings. If you don't know - find out. Your rings may not seal or may get chewed up if it is wrong. You can seal the block deck completly with duct tape so no metal shaving get into the coolant or oil passages. Stuff some rags at the bottom of the cylinder and make sure the crank is on BDC. Cover the rod journal with a rag and cover the oil holes with duct tape. You won't need to hone it more than like 6 or 7 strokes normally but read the directions on the package. Wash the cylinder walls [/i]<u>with soap and water</u>[/i] (like diswashing detergent - don't use brake or carb clean, it won't get out all the grit) with a brush until it is clean and thoroughly wipe down the crank and crank case. Soak the cylinder wall and everything with WD40 to prevent it from rusting. You will add oil to the cylinder wall when you install the piston.

Hope that helps somebody.