ttracing03

Where do I hook up the oil feed line on a b16..pics if you have any...I'm from Cali schools so I don't read well!! Also, pics of where to hook up a missing link! Thanks H-T

stealthmode62

This is a write-up that I'm doing for my site to help those who:

- Don't know which turbo they have.
- Have an oddball turbo that doesn't have a premade "kit" for thier turbo.
- Turbocharging any model of car that will require different lengths of feed/return.

The source of oil for your turbo is the starting point of creating your oil line kit. Most vehicles use the factory oil pressure sensor as a starting point, while some cars use other areas such as the head or directly off the oil pump. Our kit can be made for any source, though the majority of our customers use the factory oil pressure sensor.




Our custom block fitting uses this sensor port to pull the oil source while retaining the factory oil pressure sensor function. Virtually all oil pressure sensors are a rare 1/8 bspt, and are a very difficult thread size to find. Our block fitting has the correct 1/8 bspt male threads for the oil pressure sensor port, and a 1/8 bspt female port on the back to retain the factory oil pressure sensor. Off the sides of the block fitting are two 1/8 npt female ports to create the oil source. When only using one port the other is plugged with a 1/8 npt plug. Here's a picture of the block fitting:




Installed into the oil pressure sensor port:





Once you have determined where your oil source will be, then you will need figure out how you would like to route your oil feed line, and measure how long it will need to be. Measure from the oil source to the turbo oil inlet. Our feedlines are 48" and are long enough for virtually all engine bay dimensions. If a longer line is needed, feel free to send us an email.





<FONT SIZE="16pt">Measureing the turbo</FONT>

There are two measurements of turbos that make the oil line kit interchangable. Here is how to determine the fittings you will need.

<FONT SIZE="13pt">Oil inlet thread size</FONT>- The oil inlet thread size is where the oil will enter your turbo. There are many different thread sizes, and some turbos aren't threaded at all. The easiest way to determine which thread size you have is to test fit differnt bolt thread sizes into the turbo until you find the correct one. Some standard sizes are 1/8 npt,
1/4 npt, 7/16 inverted flare, and an assortment of metric sizes usually a 10mm or 12mm with different thread pitches.





<FONT SIZE="13pt">Oil drain flange</FONT>- The other critical measurement in selecting which oil line kit will work for your turbo is the oil drain flange. By measuring the mounting bolt holes of your drain flange from center to center you can obtain this measurement. Standard drain flange measurements are 38mm, 44mm, and 50.8mm. In rare occurances there are other sized drain flanges. By ordering the next smallest size and opening up the mounting holes on the drain flange you can mount a drain flange on any turbo.





The drain hose is what will carry the oil out of the turbo and back into the oil pan. Depending on how far your manifold sets your turbo from the oil pan, you may need a different length of drain hose. Those with turbos further from the oil pan than 14 inches are encouraged to order our Universal Kit which has a 20 inch drain hose.





Installing the included barb fitting into the oil pan will allow the oil used to cool the turbo to be returned to the engine via the oil pan. There are many different fittings you can install. You can weld a 5/8 O.D. (Drain hose has 5/8 I.D.) length of pipe to the pan as well.


<FONT SIZE="13pt">How it's done</FONT>

Mount the turbo and manifold to get an idea of where it's going to sit. Either place or install the oil pan, and make a mark that will give you the best downward slope. It should be somewhere between the top and 1 1/2 inches down.
After you have it marked, make a pilot hole, and drill it out using a drill bit slightly smaller than the 3/8 threaded end of the barb fitting. Use your drill to slowly open the hole up until you can get the threads to "catch".

At this point your hole is where you need it to be to thread in your fitting. This is when I clean the pan completely with gasoline. Gas picks up all the metal shavings well. I slosh it around a couple times, a dump. I do this about 3 times and then wipe it down.

Start threading it in. Before the base of the barb fitting gets to the oil pan, you're going to want to use a sealer on the base of the pan around the hole. I use JB weld as well as alot of customers I hear from. RTV would probably work as well as others. Put the sealer around the hole. Tighten down the barb fitting until the base of it touches the pan. I don't torque it on there, but I tighten it. After it's tight, put another layer of sealer around the base of it.

SOHC_MShue

you should hook up the missing link along with your fmu in your trash can . Look into chipping your ecu and getting a tune.

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should hook up the missing link along with your fmu in your trash can . Look into chipping your ecu and getting a tune.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Indeed.

But if you really must know.. it goes between the throttle body and the map sensor.

ttracing03

Hey thanks everyone for the info especially stealthmode62 for the awsome write up! my 2 year old looked at it with me and said he could do it now HA HA! Regards to the missing link...I do have the Hondata s200 w/boost option...so do I not need to hook this up? I know I'm a NOOB when it comes to boosting but that's what this sites for, right. Thanks again H-T

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

Right, if you have an ecu that can handle boost and is programmed to run with boost.. you don't want to hide boost from the ecu. So no, don't install the missing link.