newest uberdata released
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
good info! </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thnx no problem!!
i live 5 minutes form the german border. so in about 5 min im on the german autobahn ( hiway ) and you drive as fast as you want on the german autobahn ( not on all places but some places you can). so i can test enough
good info! </TD></TR></TABLE>Thnx no problem!!
i live 5 minutes form the german border. so in about 5 min im on the german autobahn ( hiway ) and you drive as fast as you want on the german autobahn ( not on all places but some places you can). so i can test enough
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabrown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guys anyone have a good contact for Blake (Uberdata Creator) It's very important that I get a hold of him.. Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>
he is in the process of moving but i will see if he is around.
he is in the process of moving but i will see if he is around.
Problem solved, it wasn't my soldering. I forgot to disable the knock sensor
Anyone know how much fuel I need to cut on the P28 map to make it run like stock (no boost) on a Z6? I already tried -15%, still rich and bogs when I punch the gas. VTEC and FTL work fine.
Anyone know how much fuel I need to cut on the P28 map to make it run like stock (no boost) on a Z6? I already tried -15%, still rich and bogs when I punch the gas. VTEC and FTL work fine.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phresh_5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Problem solved, it wasn't my soldering. I forgot to disable the knock sensor
Anyone know how much fuel I need to cut on the P28 map to make it run like stock (no boost) on a Z6? I already tried -15%, still rich and bogs when I punch the gas. VTEC and FTL work fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What size injectors you running? Because the only time I've seen my P28 basemap not run like stock, on a stock engine, the guy had his IAT and purge solenoid plugs reversed. P75/P72 code is very sensitive to IAT.
BTW, dabrown, I forwarded your heads up. B's an asshat.
Modified by J. Davis at 9:45 PM 11/11/2003
Modified by J. Davis at 10:24 PM 11/11/2003
Anyone know how much fuel I need to cut on the P28 map to make it run like stock (no boost) on a Z6? I already tried -15%, still rich and bogs when I punch the gas. VTEC and FTL work fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>What size injectors you running? Because the only time I've seen my P28 basemap not run like stock, on a stock engine, the guy had his IAT and purge solenoid plugs reversed. P75/P72 code is very sensitive to IAT.
BTW, dabrown, I forwarded your heads up. B's an asshat.
Modified by J. Davis at 9:45 PM 11/11/2003
Modified by J. Davis at 10:24 PM 11/11/2003
[QUOTE=J. Davis]
What size injectors you running? Because the only time I've seen my P28 basemap not run like stock, on a stock engine, the guy had his IAT and purge solenoid plugs reversed. P75/P72 code is very sensitive to IAT.
QUOTE]
Everythings stock, I just want to get uberdata running my car stock first then change the fuel tables for bigger injectors. The first time I tried it I got a Code 0, then reset, tried again with different chip (less fuel), then I got a Code 20 (IAT) and Code 0. These were both with knock sensor enabled. After taking knock out it runs with no CEL but its rich. I can see slight black smoke out the exhaust and I can tell by the way the car sounds and the Air/Fuel meter. The only wires I've added to my ecu harness are for VTEC and a T on the O2 wire for the A/F meter.
What size injectors you running? Because the only time I've seen my P28 basemap not run like stock, on a stock engine, the guy had his IAT and purge solenoid plugs reversed. P75/P72 code is very sensitive to IAT.
QUOTE]
Everythings stock, I just want to get uberdata running my car stock first then change the fuel tables for bigger injectors. The first time I tried it I got a Code 0, then reset, tried again with different chip (less fuel), then I got a Code 20 (IAT) and Code 0. These were both with knock sensor enabled. After taking knock out it runs with no CEL but its rich. I can see slight black smoke out the exhaust and I can tell by the way the car sounds and the Air/Fuel meter. The only wires I've added to my ecu harness are for VTEC and a T on the O2 wire for the A/F meter.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabrown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://clubboost.com/forum/ind...try58</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well that is certainly interesting. If it involves monitory compensation, im sure he will respond. Cool that a corporation like that is gathering info on ECU hacking.
Rob
Well that is certainly interesting. If it involves monitory compensation, im sure he will respond. Cool that a corporation like that is gathering info on ECU hacking.
Rob
Yea they are really cool, I gave them the link to this thread along with the pgmfi.org. I have purchased 2 pocket programmers from them without any issues.. Now I am thinking about the romulator so I dont have to keep running upstairs.
well the battery in there seems to be working indefinitely, but i have been messing with it at least once every 24 hours lately. so i dont know. you could always hook it uop to a permanent source and it would hold it as long as the car battery didnt die.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slashDEVslashNULL »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boards are not as sensitive as people think. Remember, heat what you want soldered and then touch the solder to it. It will get sucked into place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would not recomend HEATING what you want solderd! In fact that is VERRY BAD!
These IC's (chips) are very sensetive to heat. Actuly, any amount of prolonged exposer to heat WILL destroy the chip or cause it to malfunction.
Just try not to leave that soldering iron on there for more than a second or two
I would not recomend HEATING what you want solderd! In fact that is VERRY BAD!
These IC's (chips) are very sensetive to heat. Actuly, any amount of prolonged exposer to heat WILL destroy the chip or cause it to malfunction.
Just try not to leave that soldering iron on there for more than a second or two
Nobody said that we're soldering directly to the chip. I've got two IC sockets and a ZIF socket under my chip so theres no worries (even though my chip wasn't in the ZIF socket when I was soldering). Even the 74HC373 chip is on an IC socket and was placed there after the socket was soldered on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si2die4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would not recomend HEATING what you want solderd! In fact that is VERRY BAD!
These IC's (chips) are very sensetive to heat. Actuly, any amount of prolonged exposer to heat WILL destroy the chip or cause it to malfunction.
Just try not to leave that soldering iron on there for more than a second or two
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Slashdevslashnull is right !!
im an Computer interface electronics technician. and you have to heat what you want to solder !! because otherwise it wont be a nice solder connection. and a part of your story is right too dont heat it to long or to hot !! make sure u use the right equipment. i use a digital soldering station with a temp adjustment for the right job
so dont solder to hot or heat up the component to long but heat it nice enough and long enough for the solder to get sucked into the pad.
I would not recomend HEATING what you want solderd! In fact that is VERRY BAD!
These IC's (chips) are very sensetive to heat. Actuly, any amount of prolonged exposer to heat WILL destroy the chip or cause it to malfunction.
Just try not to leave that soldering iron on there for more than a second or two
</TD></TR></TABLE>Slashdevslashnull is right !!
im an Computer interface electronics technician. and you have to heat what you want to solder !! because otherwise it wont be a nice solder connection. and a part of your story is right too dont heat it to long or to hot !! make sure u use the right equipment. i use a digital soldering station with a temp adjustment for the right job
so dont solder to hot or heat up the component to long but heat it nice enough and long enough for the solder to get sucked into the pad.
To the people who are emailing me their setups and asking me to make them basemaps etc.. etc..
I will not do this. You have a basemap (p72bin and p75bin). Tuning in boost is up to you. I cannot guess and nor do I want to be liable for that.
thanks
the mgmt
I will not do this. You have a basemap (p72bin and p75bin). Tuning in boost is up to you. I cannot guess and nor do I want to be liable for that.
thanks
the mgmt
Does anyone have a already modified boosted B18C bin , if so please let me know I am having trouble understanding the Fuel Hi, Ign Lo and Ign Hi setting, everything I think I have , but I dont want to screw my engine up. Any help I would greatly appreciate
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To the people who are emailing me their setups and asking me to make them basemaps etc.. etc..
I will not do this. You have a basemap (p72bin and p75bin). Tuning in boost is up to you. I cannot guess and nor do I want to be liable for that.
thanks
the mgmt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jesus, are people really that stupid?
I guess so. Nevermind.
I will not do this. You have a basemap (p72bin and p75bin). Tuning in boost is up to you. I cannot guess and nor do I want to be liable for that.
thanks
the mgmt</TD></TR></TABLE>
Jesus, are people really that stupid?
I guess so. Nevermind.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94goldjungsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">To the people who are emailing me their setups and asking me to make them basemaps etc.. etc..
I will not do this. You have a basemap (p72bin and p75bin). Tuning in boost is up to you. I cannot guess and nor do I want to be liable for that.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will.
-PHiZ
I will not do this. You have a basemap (p72bin and p75bin). Tuning in boost is up to you. I cannot guess and nor do I want to be liable for that.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I will.
-PHiZ
Sweet.. I've found my engine management system!
I'm buying parts to "socket" my ECU today. And to think I've had this spare P72 sitting in my closet for years....
on me.
Can't wait to dive into this...
I'm buying parts to "socket" my ECU today. And to think I've had this spare P72 sitting in my closet for years....
on me.Can't wait to dive into this...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riddickone »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone have a already modified boosted B18C bin , if so please let me know I am having trouble understanding the Fuel Hi, Ign Lo and Ign Hi setting, everything I think I have , but I dont want to screw my engine up. Any help I would greatly appreciate</TD></TR></TABLE>
read the FAQ on page 1 and you will see that it is easy to make a base map yourself.
read the FAQ on page 1 and you will see that it is easy to make a base map yourself.
PHIZ is the man! He knows whats going on.
Good call man.
Rob<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I will.
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good call man.
Rob<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I will.
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
3 days and 30 pages later I now have learned allot about eproms, sockets, ZIF's, programs, emulator's and what ever else I downloaded on 3 floppy's.
Now I have to read a couple of web pages on how to burn the chips and figure out how to use and first what I am looking at when I bring up Uberdata.
This is my first time ever looking at a map (ROM) so I have allot of homework ahead of me. I give myself a couple of weeks to figure out somewhat of what everything is.
What would be a good eprom burner to start with and I need to buy a zif, chips(28 pin?), power source, and I guess that's it.
Now I have to read a couple of web pages on how to burn the chips and figure out how to use and first what I am looking at when I bring up Uberdata.
This is my first time ever looking at a map (ROM) so I have allot of homework ahead of me. I give myself a couple of weeks to figure out somewhat of what everything is.
What would be a good eprom burner to start with and I need to buy a zif, chips(28 pin?), power source, and I guess that's it.


