<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slashDEVslashNULL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">falcongsr, was your car hunting for idle like I am told that chipped ecus do when the engine is cold?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i am only using 310cc injectors, the idle was a little high when cold, it was not wobbling though. also, since the o2 sensor was not working yet (still warming up), and the fuel map is too rich at idle, it was running rich and that explains the high idle.

when the car is warm, it was just like stock. i am so happy. i even think the cold idle can be smoothed out to the point its a non-issue. its much better than the aem ems in terms of idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slashDEVslashNULL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">falcongsr, was your car hunting for idle like I am told that chipped ecus do when the engine is cold?</TD></TR></TABLE>

my car would do it when i was running uberdata awhile ago and still does it occassionally with my hondata.

Also i know a few people said teh transtronics Romulator real-time emulator will work fine with uberdata, has anyone had any experience with it yet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mpir3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my car would do it when i was running uberdata awhile ago and still does it occassionally with my hondata.

Also i know a few people said teh transtronics Romulator real-time emulator will work fine with uberdata, has anyone had any experience with it yet? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes! thats what i am using. came in the mail on friday. works GREAT except i had to shave a little bit of the edge of the connector so it wouldnt interfere with my ZIF socket lever.

also, when you run it dont forget to select 27C256 otherwise it wont upload your rom to the romulator! i kept taking out fuel and clicking "buffer to rom" and thinking i was leaning it out but the ECU was really in limp mode and there was NO rom in it! i kept starting the car and finally my eyes started burning and i got a WICKED headache and went inside and passed out for 2 hours. limp mode with larger injectors = A TON OF FUEL so bad it would misfire. i am sure i was even fouling plugs! heheheh lesson learned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if the ecu is bad. nobodys heard of code 81?! its 8 long flashes and 1 short flash, what the heck is that? as i said it happens the moment u turn the ecu on, rom or not.

its apparent to me now that the CEL control is not handled by the 66k processor. its handled externally in another chip. something is wrong with my ecu
</TD></TR></TABLE>


fixed the code 81

it was the abs control unit. reset it per the instructions in my helms manual.
i no longer get the code. i was using the aem ems for 18 months so something probly freaked out the abs unit a long time ago...and i never saw it since the aem ems does not indicate when a subsystem like ABS/SRS control modules have an error.

now, the CEL comes on and stays on. whether its jumpered or not. not sure what this problem is. going to try a stock rom etc...

anyone have THIS problem before?

 

I had that problem. From what I have learned, a solid cel usually indicates something in the rom the ecu doesn't like, like missing circuitry.

Did you ever do the manual conversion? Would this cause it?

BTW, I am glad I am not the only one with the idle issue I can live with it as long as its not just me lol

 

my idle is pretty solid. i was messing with it today and it was quite solid. just a little high. until it warmed up.

yes it looks like i forgot to disable knock in my final rom i created this weekend. so i am going to give that a try. i hope this is the last hurdle *fingers crossed*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

now, the CEL comes on and stays on. whether its jumpered or not. not sure what this problem is. going to try a stock rom etc...

anyone have THIS problem before? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Remove the check sum routine.

Rob

 

saving a file in uberdata is sposed to do that automagically isnit it?

about to test with the knock disabled, looks like i forgot that. whoops!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">saving a file in uberdata is sposed to do that automagically isnit it?

about to test with the knock disabled, looks like i forgot that. whoops!</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah that did it for me also.

 

ok made a new map with knock sensor disabled and the car has no CELs.

runs great. i am so relieved. exhausted. blake is the man. his rom editor is the shiz.

now to clean up the rats nest wiring, dial in the map better, and put in 550cc injectors so i can rev over 6500 (310s are maxed out around there with my setup)

 

Hey guys I'm getting a code 0 CEL on my P28 after soldering in everything, But everythings normal after I cut J1. I know I'm suppose to just add more solder but I'd like to know if it looks like I melted/burnt the board. What do you think &lt;pic&gt;


or add ".orig.jpg" to the end of it for a larger pic.

Oh yeah, I drove the car with the CEL on and I was able to rev into VTEC (4800rpm), isn't it suppose to limit the rev's to 3500?

 

Boards are not as sensitive as people think. Looks okay, just make sure your connections are solid and make sure you didn't short anything out with to much solder. Remember, heat what you want soldered and then touch the solder to it. It will get sucked into place.

 

is it a usdm or edm ECU? if its a p28-GXX then we need more info.

that isnt the best solder job i've seen. probly on par with some other peoples work around here. cant really tell from here if it would work. i mean, it looks like all the solder joints are making connection right? might want to hit them again and ad some more like you said. make sure you have good connections to the socket and the rom too.

 

It's a P28-C00

 

You know those fine green lines on the board, if a bit of solder were to cover two of those would it short them? Or are they under a coating. BTW this is my 2nd time soldering a board.

 

the green is called solder mask, it is a insulated coating. however its not too difficult to scratch off. i recommend removing any solder stuck to it.

edit - remove it by touching it with the solder tip and pull the solder away from it. dont scrape the solder off, you could damage something

 

wheheheh same problem as Slashdevslashnull <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it looks like i forgot to disable knock in my final rom i created this weekend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phresh_5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You know those fine green lines on the board, if a bit of solder were to cover two of those would it short them? Or are they under a coating. BTW this is my 2nd time soldering a board.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Always watch out with to much solder and shortcuts !!!

get some "Desoldering braid" at a local electronics shop. and get the solder off the places where you dont need it !!!

 

For the people that ar using the jdm int 269 bin that want to change the speed limit:

On adress 18A4h the value is B4h that represents 112MPH
if you put FFh on that spot the speed limit will be 158 mph
if you put 00h on that spot the speed limit will be 0 mph
so your choise is annything between 00 and ff ( 0 mph and 158 mph ) on adress location 18A4h

and for the people that think that 250 kmh / 158 mph issnt enough

i dont know how to disable the speed limit but im looking into it right now.

Greetz Erwin.

 

Is the jdm int 269 bin suitable for a JDM P72 ecu running a H22A?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is the jdm int 269 bin suitable for a JDM P72 ecu running a H22A?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes i think so. its a good starting point at least.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toxicshit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the people that ar using the jdm int 269 bin that want to change the speed limit:

On adress 18A4h the value is B4h that represents 112MPH
if you put FFh on that spot the speed limit will be 158 mph
if you put 00h on that spot the speed limit will be 0 mph
so your choise is annything between 00 and ff ( 0 mph and 158 mph ) on adress location 18A4h

and for the people that think that 250 kmh / 158 mph issnt enough

i dont know how to disable the speed limit but im looking into it right now.

Greetz Erwin.</TD></TR></TABLE>

good info! i am thinking of not changing the speed limiter. 112mph = 125mph on the speedo, and i've never gone there. and i dont want to be tempted to test it out once i removed it

now, there has GOT to be a way to make an anti-theft system out of this. it would be pimp to set the speed limiter to 0mph if you dont enter a security code or something. or some other sequence of toggling buttons. that way the car would idle but die every time you tried to drive it. there was some discussion on pgmfi about this.

 

next time i'm in the car with the romulator, I wanna try setting speed limiter to 0MPH, I'm curoius what would actually happen.

-PHiZ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by falconGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
now, there has GOT to be a way to make an anti-theft system out of this. it would be pimp to set the speed limiter to 0mph if you dont enter a security code or something. or some other sequence of toggling buttons. that way the car would idle but die every time you tried to drive it. there was some discussion on pgmfi about this.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a good idea. Maybe if you just set a revlimiter super low to where it wont run or be driveable unless the ac button is off or on. Then just hit the ac button when you get out. A theif proably would not think to push the ac button and it would not require any wiring and should not be hard to code. Turn up the rpm and you could use it for as a 2step for burnouts or something like that, or rev limiter when someone borrows your car like a vallet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omahaturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats a good idea. Maybe if you just set a revlimiter super low to where it wont run or be driveable unless the ac button is off or on. </TD></TR></TABLE>
then same thing that i was thinking use the AC input or use a launch control set ar verry strange settings +ac button.

And another thing i was thinking about since were helping alot of people on this disscussion. is there a way to ask the HT admins/mods to make another topic in the technical forums. just for Code based problems ECU Hondata PGMFI uberdata crome etc ... or shall we just stick to the good site PGMFI.ORG !!!

so like the topic FI &gt; NA &gt; Hybrid &gt; Audio &gt; Computer Stuff ??