newest uberdata released
about chipping, i don't know what the deal was with my ECU, but there was no place for the 1k resistor. mine is a 94 P75 ECU, and everything else went in just dandy, but there is no space marked for the resistor. anyone else have this issue with this ECU?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which two resistors and which jumper?
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dude, I already showed you in the link I forwarded you, wtf.
yeah, the P75 lacks a spot for one of the components. Honda nicely screen printed the dotted line, just fill in what you can, and it'll be fine.
-PHiZ
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>Dude, I already showed you in the link I forwarded you, wtf.
yeah, the P75 lacks a spot for one of the components. Honda nicely screen printed the dotted line, just fill in what you can, and it'll be fine.
-PHiZ
Hey Phiz,
Check this out let me Know what u think. I think the P72 is Plug n Play in the prelude P13. BTW stock GSR .bin is for the P72 ecu correct?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=461838
Check this out let me Know what u think. I think the P72 is Plug n Play in the prelude P13. BTW stock GSR .bin is for the P72 ecu correct?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=461838
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which two resistors and which jumper?
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Goto http://www.zdyne.com then goto tech section and look at the auto/manual ecu picture. Remove rp17 and install a jumper in rp18, then you're done.
Stan
Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>Goto http://www.zdyne.com then goto tech section and look at the auto/manual ecu picture. Remove rp17 and install a jumper in rp18, then you're done.
Stan
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigwig »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">b/c thats how it was programmed...god damn nova scotian!</TD></TR></TABLE>
well that's dumb, how do I run ecu control with uberdata now? hmm... hurry up and come out with a data logging/digital dash version of uberdata! hehehe.
Stan
well that's dumb, how do I run ecu control with uberdata now? hmm... hurry up and come out with a data logging/digital dash version of uberdata! hehehe.
Stan
For the guys that are already running Uberdata, are your cars still going into closed loop mode? I installed my wideband O2 in place of the stock O2 sensor and forgot to hook up an analog output to the ECU. But somehow my car didn't throw a CEL. I also had horrible gas mileage before tuning. Does this mean closed loop is disabled?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Boostcreep: This program will let you make new fuel ignition maps. You make the maps with experience and research, sorry no pancea for that. Functionally, you need to burn a new map/chip everytime you make a change. Or you can use a rom emulator device, and make the changes via a laptop, without un-socketing the ecu.
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
So there's no "realtime" tuning involved?
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
So there's no "realtime" tuning involved?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boost Creep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So there's no "realtime" tuning involved?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope........
rob
So there's no "realtime" tuning involved?</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope........
rob
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quade »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Phiz,
Check this out let me Know what u think. I think the P72 is Plug n Play in the prelude P13. BTW stock GSR .bin is for the P72 ecu correct?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=461838 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, this is what I was thinking of (from hondata.com): 94 and 95 Accords have EGR (A11) and the O2 heating (A6) reversed and must be rewired
I don't think that'll matter, but it might be worth investigating.
-PHiZ
gee whiz, thanks for forwarding him the same link I already did... geez
Check this out let me Know what u think. I think the P72 is Plug n Play in the prelude P13. BTW stock GSR .bin is for the P72 ecu correct?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=461838 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sorry, this is what I was thinking of (from hondata.com): 94 and 95 Accords have EGR (A11) and the O2 heating (A6) reversed and must be rewired
I don't think that'll matter, but it might be worth investigating.
-PHiZ
gee whiz, thanks for forwarding him the same link I already did... geez
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PHiZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dude, I already showed you in the link I forwarded you, wtf.
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
As I said in an earlier post, it's too small for me to see which resistors
But thanks for your n00b-bashing anyway
I'll try not to pass it on when I help out the next guy who has the same question. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the help, but I don't like unnecessary attitude.
S-FLY, thanks for the PCB board resistor #s
I'll pick up my P28 sometime this week!
Dude, I already showed you in the link I forwarded you, wtf.
-PHiZ</TD></TR></TABLE>
As I said in an earlier post, it's too small for me to see which resistors
But thanks for your n00b-bashing anyway
I'll try not to pass it on when I help out the next guy who has the same question. Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the help, but I don't like unnecessary attitude. S-FLY, thanks for the PCB board resistor #s
I'll pick up my P28 sometime this week!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
S-FLY, thanks for the PCB board resistor #s
I'll pick up my P28 sometime this week!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not a problem dude! I completely understood what you were trying to ask, because I couldn't tell what was what from those pictures either, so I opened up my manual p28 and compared to the pics.
Stan
S-FLY, thanks for the PCB board resistor #s
I'll pick up my P28 sometime this week!</TD></TR></TABLE>Not a problem dude! I completely understood what you were trying to ask, because I couldn't tell what was what from those pictures either, so I opened up my manual p28 and compared to the pics.
Stan
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbodGSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i donated almost $150 and still havent got the 3 bar version and this was in march or something.</TD></TR></TABLE>
email me, samurai915@yahoo.com, I will take care of you
sam
email me, samurai915@yahoo.com, I will take care of you
sam
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boost Creep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So there's no "realtime" tuning involved?</TD></TR></TABLE>
define realtime.
if you want emulation you can use an emulator JUST like hondata does. if you look at the emulator hondata uses, its not like they make it themselves or it has any dependence on any specific element of the Hondata control box or something. All it does is place a cord from your burner into the chip location so you can burn on the fly without having to take chips in and out. I think its pretty superfluous for $200~ that they cost. But... if you wanan say you can burn on the fly, go for it!
Its useless on the dyno though and when doing street tuning imho, because you should be cooling your car down between runs somewhat
sam
So there's no "realtime" tuning involved?</TD></TR></TABLE>
define realtime.
if you want emulation you can use an emulator JUST like hondata does. if you look at the emulator hondata uses, its not like they make it themselves or it has any dependence on any specific element of the Hondata control box or something. All it does is place a cord from your burner into the chip location so you can burn on the fly without having to take chips in and out. I think its pretty superfluous for $200~ that they cost. But... if you wanan say you can burn on the fly, go for it!
Its useless on the dyno though and when doing street tuning imho, because you should be cooling your car down between runs somewhatsam


