problems:
belt: no
Tensioners: no
Gears: no
not taking into consideration surfacing and gasket clearance: yes

Think about taking a factory engine and shaving the head to up the compression. That, with everything else being the same, advances the cam timing if using factory gears, sometimes just a half tooth.... now how do you correct that? you get adjustable cam gears, degree your cams and adjust the gears to achieve mechanical zero (if that is what is desired) regardless of the markings on the gears themselves.........

 

exactly, however he hasn't taken that much off of either, the problem is he's between belt sizes... which is weird

do the old string method.... run a string around the motor just as you would the belt, take the string off and measure it.... this will give you a starting point for the length of the belt

 

oh, I thought the belt fit, but wouldnt line up the cams

 

i suppose you have a point there, given the fact that the gears were not designed to be used with a tall deck block the markers could actually be off position now. Let's see what you get with the degree wheel if you adjust them, but i still have concerns that it is moving when you rotate the engine.

 

Belt isnt slipping any, i can promise you that and im not in between any belt sizes. The one dart says to use fits on pretty snug and tensions correctly.im still waiting on a so called friend to come help before i drop 300 on a degree kit and that not help at all.

 

If you rotate the crank clockwise, the belt will slip a tooth, so only rotate the crank counter-clockwise.

 

It's been over a month now, I wonder how the build's going? This kinda reminds me of the grief that CaliforniaDad was having with the timing set-up on his B18C1 non-Dart build (that got resolved). I hope that using my Dart head on my B18B doesn't give me Dart hate syndrome as well.

 

Surprised endyn commented on my thread. And yes im aware of the rotation of a honda motor and know the tensioner can not work correctly if you rotate the engine clockwise.

Peaceable, the build has basically stalled as of late. Here recently i have splurged on my evo 8. I have recently spent above 6k on it for a jdm evo ix rear, voltex rear diffuser, voltex side skirts, voltex wide front fenders, and voltex rear wide quarter panels. I also bought a map rev3 intake manifold along with a mil-spec 65mm tb, i bought wheels and tires as well 18x10 +25 xxr's and spacers to clear the front brembos.

As for the timing issue we got it in time, but not all of the marks line up. We are sure its from the block being higher and the head having an unknown amount of material being taken off before i bought it. Im still planning on degreeing the cams. I went ahead and put the fluidampr crank pulley on and finished up the rest of the build. All it needs is an alternator belt thrown on, cams degreed, valve lash adjusted, and thrown in the car. Once in the car ill have to get someone to fab up some ic piping, and im not worrying about an exhaust, just going to come straight up out the hood.

Another reason this build isnt finished yet is because i have been low on funds in general besides blowing it on my evo. I recently tried purchasing a house but couldnt and had to move and rent increased. Now that spring is here im ready to wrap it up and put it on a dyno soon so stay tuned.

 

XXRs... really? Like really lol?

 

Cool! That's a lot of solid progress on the Evo. It grieved me to see the amount of pain the block issues were causing you. I'm glad to hear that you had success and identified/resolved to where you're at. Be encouraged that others have learned as well by your persistence through the whole process.
I look forward to seeing your ride at your timing when it comes together.

 

It was either them or rotas. Im not gonna drop 4k+ on some corsa le mans or volk te37s. I considered rota p45rs or enkei rpf1s but EVERYBODY runs them on their evos.

 

That's true. But therr are lighter, higher quality options like varrstöen. Their wheels have really improved in quality. A lot of pro-am and professional drifters (FormulaD) and I've never seen one issue and we hit walls and each other lol

 

Well im not going to be drifting the evo, and the roads around here are pretty smooth as long as u dont venture down backroads u dont know well. I have seen alot of honda people run them without issue and if they last a while then they were worth the price for 18x10s under 600 brand new.

 

when you degrea the cams remember to install the vibrant tensioner and leave it in its final possition first as that will throw off any timing if done afterwards.