my 2.2l stroker build thread
here ya go, this should help
http://www.gatesmectrol.com/mectrol/...older=brochure
im a little too drunk to read that
http://www.gatesmectrol.com/mectrol/...older=brochure
im a little too drunk to read that
wait wait wait hold the phones... cam gears are 35 teeth i miss counted, so 35 teet and 35 teeth for one full revolution + 17 teeth x 2 revolutions + 22 teeth water pump = 126 teeth so is that a definate way of saying yes i need a gsr 126 toothed belt?
im not sure its a definite way of saying that its right, but given how much slack you have in the ford belt, and the fact that your rolling just enough to equal 2 extra teeth on a belt...id be willing to bet the 90 bucks that gsr belt will solve your problem.
well we will definately see tomorrow and if it works ill conference call you and personally thank you and then i will tell dart you deserve the credit and the technical sheets they send with their blocks need a revision with props to spawne32
ya the only for sure way to do it with math is with every diameter of each gear and see if the belt travels 1=revolution with the motors 2 revolutions or 1 full cycle but the easy way since i understood none of that stuff in that gates tech article is drop another 90 and slap it on and see. i would actually feel alot better if i do need the gsr belt. i dont need any ford parts on my motor kind of made me weary from the get go. found on roadside dead.
Who is Mr Robot?
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Gates t247 is the proper length and has 126 teeth, that's the belt you need.
Even with the cams being lower I don't think a gsr belt will fit
I wish I could have digitized that block before you assembled it... o could've either CNC'd a better copy out of billet or cast a better version, solve all the issues during finish machining, charge less them dart and profit
Even with the cams being lower I don't think a gsr belt will fit
I wish I could have digitized that block before you assembled it... o could've either CNC'd a better copy out of billet or cast a better version, solve all the issues during finish machining, charge less them dart and profit
^u sir are correct. Sorry spawne32 he is right. Spent 19 bucks on the gsr belt and it is about half an inch too short to fit over the intake cam when it is wrapped around the other pullies.
What belt did you buy? Ive been saying T247 the whole time lol honestly i dont know what to tell you as far as the belt goes, the whole thing confuses me and i would have thrown that dart block through the front window of darts main office by now.
Sorry i got confused. Isnt the t247 a gsr belt? The belt i purchased is a t247 and it is too short. Whatever part # belt dart says to use must be the right one. Im so pissed im confusing myself i cant remember the part # to what belts i have. I just know one is the one dart says to use and the other is a 94-01 vtec belt, and i know that an ls belt wont work either

here is the t247 belt... too short

i dont know what to do anymore. im waiting on a friend to come over and try himself. he swears he can get it timed and if he cant his step dad who is a mechanic can for a case of beer.
ive made a feeler thread already and i am unfortunately considering letting someone else have this headache if i cant figure this problem out.
ya guess i did, but you still said you thought i needed that belt, so i tried just for you man lol. its not like im going your effin wrong screw your advice cause im willing to try anything at this point, even if it means talking sweet to this motor and putting the hammer i usually have handy when messing with it now down and not threatening to **** it up.
I could have almost swore it would fit though, given the amount of slack you had even with the tensioner tightened on the other belt. Now im just puzzled by the whole thing.
Me too. Someone suggested degreeing the cams and timing it that way since doing so would find true tdc on both the cams and crank. What do you think is it worth a shot to try it that way?
My concern would be that it would keep rolling over teeth if it is in fact, an issue with the number of teeth on the belt, regardless of what you might see in a couple rotations, when its rotating at 1000rpm it might be a different story. At this point id be so un-trustworthy of the block id be ready to throw it in the trash. For all intents and purposes it seems like they never bothered to test this block with a non vtec head at all, they just put it in the description as being compatible to bolster sales.
I thought the exact same thing about them never testing this with a non vtec head, but someone else has done it. I searched for 4 hours a few nights ago for anyone doing a non vtec build using a dart tall deck block, and found 1. Dont remember the guys name, but he is from canada and if i remember correctly u posted in his build thread spawne. He did a N/A build with a 2.2 stroker kit and was testing different cams trying to get over 160tq on stock ls cams.
I pm'd him and received a response yesterday... all of his marks lined up like stock using the ford focus belt dart says to use. I guess im retarded and cant pyt a belt on right after every bit of 500 times lol.
I pm'd him and received a response yesterday... all of his marks lined up like stock using the ford focus belt dart says to use. I guess im retarded and cant pyt a belt on right after every bit of 500 times lol.
ok... the belt length has nothing to do with your problem. you could have a belt 200" long and have 400 teeth; as long as it is tentioned, the crank will move xx number of teeth which will move the cams xx number of teeth. (ie. like the crank will move 20 teeth, which will move the cams 20 teeth....) doesnt matter the number of teeth in between (as long as it is tensioned correctly).
What I think is happening is the combination of the dart block and surfaced head. A VERY simple fix for this would adjust the cam gears to get them mechanically zero'd out (after degreeing and rotating a few times and note the difference between mechanical zero and gear-marked zero. None of this running around buying different belts.
What I think is happening is the combination of the dart block and surfaced head. A VERY simple fix for this would adjust the cam gears to get them mechanically zero'd out (after degreeing and rotating a few times and note the difference between mechanical zero and gear-marked zero. None of this running around buying different belts.
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
the cams should move half the number of teeth the crank does, its a 50% reduction between the two to keep timing events in proper sequence
are all of the tensioners slack/off the motor?
are all of the tensioners slack/off the motor?




