W!d3b0dYr3X

hello community,

recently i have been reading through peoples build threads, on here and evolutionm.net since i also own an evo 8, and have decided to create my own. I realized you can learn alot more from someones build thread and find more info in them than the average "please help me" threads so this is for my future reference, and any others who may follow a similiar path and encounter similiar problems that i may have in the near future.

ive been gathering parts for this build since before purchasing my 2003 evolution 8 and that is the only reason i have continued to work on this project. i like to finish what i start before moving to the next. with that being said i have been gathering parts for over 4-5 years, and only a couple of things are needed before final assembly takes place. NO expense has or will be spared to achieve my goals.

heres the rundown of the engine setup:

power goals: 650whp no less. any more is just icing on the cake.

engine: b18b1 yes this is a non-vtec build. dont ask why i didnt, or say i could make more power yada yada. i chose this build and this route.

on to the goodies

Block:

Dart tall deck block 226mm height with an 84.5mm bore
Crower custom rods
Crower liteweight knife edged crank 95mm stroke
CP pistons with std compression
ACL race bearings
golden eagle oil squirter plugs
golden eagle hg

Head:

PR4 casting
will be ported and polished (yet to decide who will do the work)
Brian Crower stage 2 turbo cams
Brian Crower dual valvesprings and titanium retainers
Brian Crower .5mm oversized valves
Ferrea valve seals
Crower valve locks
Skunk 2 cam seals

Turbo setup:

Full Race T4 Ex manifold
Synapse synchronic blow off valve
Tial MVR 44mm wastegate
Precision intercooler
Nitrous express intercooler sprayer bar
3" intercooler piping
Precision 6776h journal bearing turbo

Drivetrain:

Act streetlite flywheel
Act extreme pressure plate
act heavy duty sprung 6 puck disc clutch
driveshaft shop 3.9 axles(have yet to order)
ls trans built by mfactory (have yet to look into my options on this so any info would be appreciated regarding this.)

Fuel:

aem fuel rail
aem fuel pressure regulator
fic1650cc or id1600cc (yet to decide)
FB dual pump hanger
2 walbro 255s

Misc parts:

Skunk 2 pro series intake manifold
edelbrock 68mm throttle body
toga high volume oil pump
new oem water pump
moroso oil pan
moroso oil pickup
arp flywheel bolts
ngk plugs
msd 8.5 wires (debating on going to cop)
msd ignition box (also will depend on cop)
Moroso distributor
gates timing belt
fluidampr crank pulley
samco radiator hoses
mugen thermostat
fluidyne radiator
hondata intake manifold gasket
arp head studs
aem cam gears
custom 3" tbe including custom dp
moroso vented catch can setup (still need to buy)
greddy universal oil cooler
hondata 4bar map sensor
hondata boost solenoid
hondata s300

thats the entire setup i believe, i might be missing a few things and will update if i remember.

the only major things im lacking is the machine work on the block, which requires final prep work, align honing, and the head work. and of course the parts that are labeled in question or saying still needed to buy. when i find the right place im having the head sent off and block work done which should be in the next couple of weeks and then assembly will begin. i will also update with pics along the way of every step.

this is my first major build and build thread so be easy on me lol. i will also be doing the assembly myself. i have never assembled a motor before, but i have pulled and helped disassembly plenty so i think i can tackle this. i feel any question i have you guys can help answer, and from there it should just be double, triple, and quadruple checking clearances, and everything i do.

when i get a little more time i will post some pics of "the room" as my friends call it of all the parts and where the build will begin and end. not much to see as it looks like a warehouse of parts in boxes. MORE TO COME SHORTLY!!

Do-Work

iTrader: (1)

not a bad setup you have there

W!d3b0dYr3X

^thanks. here are some teaser pics of whats to come.

heres a pic of my old setup. nothing but a revhard stage 2 turbo kit with some rc 310s and a few other bolt ons



precision 6776h beside a 2l coke bottle. this was before i polished the housing



test fitting the turbo setup to get an idea of the way things will look



dart block. (them are some beefy *** main caps)



"the room"



"the room" continued...



brian crower 95mm stroke crank and acl bearings



turbo after i polished the housing. i also do this for people on the side if anyone is interested. i can polish just about anything.



and my next project



stay tuned!!

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

imo i would not have went with the PR4 head, i would have went with the P8R head because of the larger bore, 47cc combustion chamber, and the 33mm intake valves vs the 31mm intake valves on the standard LS heads, ive seen a couple of them for sale in the market place and nonvtec.com. Looking forward to seeing what kinda torque this makes and at what rpm.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

also, i had msd 8.5mm wires, they held up for about a year, then all the connectors fell off, i just got in magnecor wires the other day that i ordered and they are top notch, always have been. lighting motorsports sells them.

W!d3b0dYr3X

i thought about going getting the head i have when its ported have them rework the bowls larger, but ive talked to a couple places that recommended against doing it. kinda like the p8r head you mentioned with a larger chamber, that would lower my compression which would sacrifice a little power i could make down low which im not wanting to do.

and ya ive heard alot about msd boxes and wires being crap and the reason i stated i may go a different route depending on alot of things. i already had the wires and the sport compact ignition on my old setup and they worked well together. the msd box helped alot with the idle, throttle response, and the car cutting out up top. we will see though. if they dont hold up i may go cop.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

well, the PR4 head combustion chamber is 45cc and the p8r chamber is 47cc, if your gona upgrade the valves the flat face valves would make up the difference in the chamber size, but getting flat face 33mm valves would be difficult for the P8R as they use vtec size valves with non vtec size stems. Imo the benefits out weigh the costs with the P8R strictly from a standpoint of flow, which is almost as aggressive as a b16a head in stock form. Part of the reason i opted for it for my b20 build, just making up the difference in compression with different piston selection.

Im not putting down the MSD box, their ignition systems work just fine, i know plenty of people using those, but MSD wires are asscrack, just generally poorly made etc. Nology wires are a huge scam so I also advise against those as well. But if you already have them, use them until they come apart and then make the switch to magnecor 8.5's or even 10mm.

W!d3b0dYr3X

wouldnt the pr4 head flow as well as a p8r once ported with the addition of the .5mm oversized valves im running?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

the single biggest factor in head flow is the valve size, 31.5mm valves will never allow as much air through the intake port into the chamber as fast as a 33mm valve will. while a high quality cnc port of the of the pr4 head would flow great, the same high quality port job the p8r would yield even better flow results strictly because of the valve size.

i dont have flow data on a standard LS head but stock for stock, you can see why the P8R has such a huge advantage in flow from those valves



imo its just a better upgrade, and saves you the trouble of having to run oversized valves, as you can run oem valves on a pretty high hp setup without running into issues.

W!d3b0dYr3X

would the cams, cam seal, springs and retainers, and valve seals i have still work with this head? this may be something worht looking into since this would in turn help low and mid power and torque levels.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

yes, all of that would be the same, the only difference here would be that if you needed a valve on the intake side, it would either have to be special ordered from a japanese dealer, or i believe Si valves makes a 2.2L prelude valve that is the same stem size but 33mm face. That is the only difference, the face of the valve is 33mm but the stem, and width of the valve, etc is all LS size.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

http://www.nonvtec.com/forums/p8r-head-t4140.html

pretty sure that is still for sale

W!d3b0dYr3X

sorry for the noobish question, but what motor is this head found on? im not well versed with the different castings of heads and what motors they specifically come on.

i could potentially sell the current head i have along with the over sized valves, and use the money to pick up one of these heads and some good oversized valves for it to maximize flow and low end torque. im going to need all the low and mid range i can get to spool this turbo lol

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

P8R casting is a very rarely found non vtec head that came on JDM b20b engines, only reason you see them in the US is from JDM engine importers and people buying those engines and selling the heads off them when they switch to a vtec head, some of them just so happen to be P8R heads.

what sort of compression ratio are you looking to use with the stroker bottom end? gonna take the old school route of low compression high boost or try it the new way these guys are doing it with slightly higher compression on boost. There was a drag car build thread here that they were running turbo and 12.5:1 compression.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/cnc-engine-dynamics-outlaw-build-2978690/

W!d3b0dYr3X

neither lol im sticking with the std 9.2:1.

i was just thinking about it but i dont think i could run the p8r head with the pistons i have. i think i would have to buy new pistons as well which would def suck since they are custom from cp since im running custom rods with the adddition of the longer stroke of the crank. i think im stuck with the head i originally went with?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

shouldnt make a difference, the only thing that would have changed on the pistons would be the skirt, you said they are CP pistons and the CP's should already have the proper relief size for high lift cams and 33mm vtec size valves

W!d3b0dYr3X

they cast them with the idea that i was running a pr4 head and .5 oversized valves.

the spec sheet list the intake valve relief at -.021 and the exhaust at -.150.

ill call them tomorrow and see if it would be possible to use these with a p8r head.

i also plan on doing a couple of misc things tomorrow regarding my build. ill post pics and details tomorrow night after i get off work if i get around too it. im calling it a night. thanks for the info regarding the p8r.

cibao2ner

i have a dart block myself built for boost..but remenber the dart block is a copy of a gsr block..so ur gonna have to plug some holes to use the nonvtec block...i went for the b18 dart cause the tall deck is really for allmotor build where rs ratio plays a big part...that build is gonna make crazy amounts of torque in the low end with the 95mm crank...if i was you i would go with the b16/gsr head and go with ferrea roller rockers...will be nonvtec cause your only gonna have 1 size cam lobe like the ls head...

my set up is a b18 dart with cp/manley turbo tuffs 89mm ls crank...itr head rlz ported with ferrea roller rockers and matching valvetrain...and custom cams..just saving for the tranny so i can put it together...hoping to make 950+ whp or bust..

btw ls/b20 heads are not meant to rev past 7-8k...which is fine on a 95mm stroke but then u went with the tall deck which is meant to be rev higher...

upgrade to a vtec head while u have time...dont spend all that money on the block to have the head limit you...

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

the head does not determine the rev limit lol, the reason the ls/b20 engines were not designed to rev high is because of the rod/stroke ratio. The bottom end itself was not built for high revving.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

then honestly I cant say for sure about the pistons, the p8r heads can be had for pretty cheap so if you did pick one up worst case scenario you would have to clay the pistons to see where the valves sit at your maximum lift

kyden

yeah no. look at the rocker setup on the ls head. that is not staying in place at 9000 rpm.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

this motor he is building isnt gonna make power above 8k anyway, what is the issue?

BigMike0147

Lots of nice parts!! Interested to see how the rest of the build goes!

W!d3b0dYr3X

Thanks big mike. And spawne32 is exactly right. I didn't put all this together with the idea of spinning itabove 8k. For one its a stroker build for the low and mid torque which hondas lack. They just aren't torque monsters. If I had intentions of reving it out to 9k I would have opted for a ls-vtec or a gsr build

And the rs ratio plays a part on any build regardless if its turbo or na.

W!d3b0dYr3X

got bored earlier and was looking at my fluidyne radiator. it was pretty dull looking so i decided to polish it up, and go ahead and put my fan on it to test fit everything with the new turbo setup next week when i find the time. its nice still having the stock block in the car that way i can drop my spare head in with the manifold and turbo to see how much room i have to work with.

before



and after



still needs a little more work but its almost there.