blwn95civic

Some of yal may have seen my other thread awhile back from when i overrevved my motor and cracked a head: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2238017


Well its been quite awhile now and i finally got the car back today. When i picked the car up from the shop everything looked as good as before. The head was matched to the old head and everything was 100% the way it was when it was tuned. The car is tuned for 18psi but since everything was new i ran it off the wastegate (7psi) for the 45 min drive home. For the first 40 miles everything was perfect. I would occasianally down shift to 4th and run the car up to 5500 rpm just as it hit full boost then granny shift to 5th. Within the last 5 miles i went to down shift to 4th and when i did i noticed the car didnt seem to take off and when i looked at the boost gauge it was sittin steady on 0 .... the first thing that came to mind is intercooler piping blown off. So i just put it in neutral coasted off the on ramp and drove about a mile to my house.

After going over everything from the piping, wastegate lines and turbo i still cant get the car to build boost! The wastegate is closed, turbo has 0 shaft play and isnt puking oil out anywhere. I can spin the turbo freely with my hand and exhaust side looks good.

Cliff notes:
- Lost boost while cruising
- Turbo isnt leaking and has 0 shaft play
- motor is brand new!!
- no leak in intercooler piping or couplings
- wastegate is working properly


I did notice the head gasket had a little bit of oil coming out of it on the front side of cyl 1. Not pouring out but enough to slowly travel to the oil pan. Ive had new motors show a oil spot before during break in but not this bad. And the car is giving puffs of blue smoke when coming to a stop, but no oil in the charge piping

Where do i need to begin looking now?

ahobbs

now this is only if there are no leaks, which i beilve it still is. it's easy to over look a small cut in a coupling.

I saw someone else put this and thuoght it was a good idea.

Pressurize the cold side to the TB. block it off and you will see where the leak is. maybe in your actual IC itself.

otherwise take it back to the mechanic and igure out why the head is leaking oil

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HybridcivicLS-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now this is only if there are no leaks, which i beilve it still is. it's easy to over look a small cut in a coupling.

I saw someone else put this and thuoght it was a good idea.

Pressurize the cold side to the TB. block it off and you will see where the leak is. maybe in your actual IC itself.

otherwise take it back to the mechanic and igure out why the head is leaking oil</TD></TR></TABLE>


First thing i'll do after class tomorrow is take off all the piping and check it and put it back on, i wanna change a few angles a little anyways. If its a boost leak wouldnt i hear it? I tried putting my hand over the cold side and seeing if the car stayed running but the blow off valve pulled open and the car ran thru the bov. Is this normal?

redlsvtec4door

that bov issue sound interesting. pull the vacuum line off the bov and plug it so you wont have a vacuum leak on the intake maifold then drive the car and see if it builds boost. just dont harp on it without a bov hooked up.

blwn95civic

well i pulled the couplings off this morning and found no leaks.... pulled vaccume line off the bov and plugged it like recommended by redlsvtec4door and still no boost. Pulled the air filter off and went to spin the turbo and its not wanting to spin freely Its a garrett t4 60 trim .96 hot side .50 cold side journal bearing. I've had the turbo for about 2 years before i got to the point to put it on and it was bought new. Would it be cheaper to rebuild it or go ahead and try to find a similar turbo and just street tune? Im really thinkin about buyin a ebay turbo thats the same a/r just so i can drive the car

blwn95civic

Anybody??

GsrRussell

Rebuild should cost between $200-500, its probably your best bet

turbo-crx

thats an odd size turbo. it has a really small compressor housing, and huge exhaust housing. is it an ebay turbo?

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbo-crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats an odd size turbo. it has a really small compressor housing, and huge exhaust housing. is it an ebay turbo?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blwn95civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i pulled the couplings off this morning and found no leaks.... pulled vaccume line off the bov and plugged it like recommended by redlsvtec4door and still no boost. Pulled the air filter off and went to spin the turbo and its not wanting to spin freely Its a garrett t4 60 trim .96 hot side .50 cold side journal bearing. I've had the turbo for about 2 years before i got to the point to put it on and it was bought new. Would it be cheaper to rebuild it or go ahead and try to find a similar turbo and just street tune? Im really thinkin about buyin a ebay turbo thats the same a/r just so i can drive the car </TD></TR></TABLE>