slowteg550

This will be my first true build from scratch turbo'd honda. I bought a turbo'd integra about a year ago and finished up the build that the previous owner started, it was a stock b18c1 w/ cp pistons and eagle rods, pretty much everything else stock and made 375 whp on 93 octane. It ran 11.9's spinning and lasted for a year (nearly 20 k miles) before grenading itself (still troubleshooting that problem). Reguardless, I'm going to try to make my new setup as nice as possible. I'm open to any opinions/advice you guys have, and would appreciate it. I know when you are shooting for 550 ish whp there are a lot of parts that you have to change from a <400 whp setup.

Anyway, this is a tentative parts list, I have got some parts already, others I'm just listing what I plan.... so if you wanna suggest a different part or brand, please do so!

B18c1 Head, stock cams, Titanium valves (unsure on brand yet), and probably crower springs/retainers.

Bottom end (undecided on b18c1 or b18b, or perhaps even b20) Sleeved (closed deck hopefully), Crower billet steel rods, 9.1 pistons, girdle. I broke a couple of oil pumps on my old setup, so I'm planning to run a fluidamper pulley and have the rotating assembly balanced by the top engine building shop in the state, possibly top 10 in the country.

Turbo - Undecided, but looking at Gt35's... Gt3561s or e maybe?

Tranny b18c1 w/ ls 5th gear and Quaife

Fuel cell, aeromotive a1000 pump, aeromotive filter and regulator, aem rail and 1000 cc rc's.

Neptuned p28, with some sort of gear dependant boost setup.

HKS SSQ bov, 2.5" charge pipes on the hot side, 750 whp PWR fmic, and 3" charge pipes on the cold side, 68mm edelbrock TB and skunk 2 IM.

I'm gonna let the machine shop do whatever they want with portwork of the IM and head.

I have a 38mm tial left over from my old car, so I may use it, but I dunno if it'll be enough.

The manifold will be a custom made 1 3/4" stainless piece, still undecided on ram horn style or top mount. I'm leaning toward ram horn though to keep my power steering.

I'm not sure what all I left out, but I have a few questions.

1. What size fuel feed line should I run from the cell to the rail? I plan on using the stock feed line to return the new system.

2. What are the limits of 38mm tial wgs?


I think that's about it. I'm hoping to make about 550 whp on 110 octane and drive it a fair amount this summer. I plan to run 235 60 15 MT et streets (new style), and skunk 2 drag springs on my tokico's. Hopefully with gear dependat boost and those tires I can do some damage on the street. I already have traction bars that I made for my old setup.

I'm not sure how much boost it will take from a turbo like the gt3561s to make 550 whp, if anyone has a guess throw it out. Any info is appreciated.

tokesGTR

Earl has been reporting quite a few problems with crower rods lately, I personally would stay away from them. Eagles or Manleys for me. A B20 block and an LS block are functionally identical when sleeved, so don't get caught up in which block to use.

PTE's GT35E would be a fine choice for 550 WHP, it's not so small that you're overspinning it to make that much power, and not so big that you're dealing with huge amounts of lag.

Trans setup sounds good. For the fuel I would strongly recommend sticking with your stock tank plus a walbro high pressure, and a KB Boost-a-pump if you really feel the need. The only fuel cell car I ever drove had cavitation issues with the pump at anything less than about 1/4 of a tank, and the car would sometimes cut out if you're doing hard braking and/or turning because the sump would get completely exposed to air. The A1000's don't flow an awfully large amount of fuel for dealing with the noise they make, so like I said I would just stick to the walbro.

I'd stray away from having a standard machine shop port your head, a lot of them just hack up the ports and kill all your velocity and low lift flow. Keep it OEM honda or go to a good porter (headgames, RLZ, alaniz, portflow, skunk2, etc) if you want to get work done on your head.

On a GT35E I would think ~22 pounds of boost should take you to 550 WHP on an 81.5mm bore motor.


Modified by tokes1320 at 7:02 PM 12/4/2005

slowteg550

Wow, thank you for the info. I had thought about just keeping my current fuel system (stock aside from a walboro 255), but I hear some people saying they lose a lot of fuel pressure under boost over 500 wheel horse. Then I hear other saying they make up to 600 or better on stock lines, so I may try it and see. I didn't think of the cavatation issues.

U think the 38 mm tial would be ok or would it creep?

slowteg550

anyone else?

slowteg550

No one else?

slowteg550

guess not