i think there really is a reason you have 93% there. first you said that y series doenst have oiling issues and now this ? you should really stop posting as soon as possible.

 

Listen dude.

Talk **** all you want about the stock head on my setup.
But my garbage head on a garbage stock d15 block went 12.1 on 11 psi @112.

Just because the motor doesnt make 400-500 hp doesnt mean its shitty.

Go away.


Zex that car that went 120 or so and 11's is on the ectune.com forum. Ive seen chris post about it.

I will pretty much guarantee my garbage 280whp will trap 120 and low 11's with a good pass. Id say 11.5 at worst.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr. D-Series &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I will pretty much guarantee my garbage 280whp will trap 120 and low 11's with a good pass. Id say 11.5 at worst.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no doubt !

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think there really is a reason you have 93% there. first you said that y series doenst have oiling issues and now this ? you should really stop posting as soon as possible. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Y8 pump flows less. Everyone knows this. Some call it an "issue". My fully built y8 has never had oiling problems, therefore I can only conclude that the people who do have problems are idiots who either a) can't build a motor or b) can't tune a motor.

As far as the y7 head sucking, I don't see how anyone could debate that. It's hard enough to defend the y8 head against the z6 due to its supposed inferior combustion chamber geometry. Now you want to take the same chamber design and remove the vtec? The only thing that's letting the poor thing breathe in the 7k+ range? Give me a break.

 

Im not debating. Im not saying its good.It surely isnt compared to a y8 or z6 head. But with a goal of 10.99 do I really need anything better than a stock y7 head? I really dont think so.

BTW Combustion chambers on y7's and y8's are totally different.

 

to quote endyne, "Those who don't care for the practice, have never apparently experienced oiling problems, or they've never made enough power to be concerned."

and so much for you having a "FULLY BUILT Y8" when you dont even know the difference in the y7 cc and the y8.

like i said above, stop posting for the love of ppl who might read this.

 

BTW Zex are you the dude from a while back that made 300 with the 42/48 t3 ?
Judging by the sig you are lol.

 

nah, it was the ebay special t3 "super 60." they said .63/60 but i never measured. it had a great powerband.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr. D-Series &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im not debating. Im not saying its good.It surely isnt compared to a y8 or z6 head. But with a goal of 10.99 do I really need anything better than a stock y7 head? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I still don't get it. What is a y8 head, $100? It's clearly better, and it's practically free. To each his own I guess. I wouldn't use a y7 head even if my goal was 14.99.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zex_cool &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to quote endyne,</TD></TR></TABLE>

And now I have zero respect for anything you have to say. Larry is an old fool, chock full of theories and ideas with ZERO empirical evidence supporting his claims. He lives his life based on theory. But forget about real-world practicality, you've got his word to go on, right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and so much for you having a "FULLY BUILT Y8" when you dont even know the difference in the y7 cc and the y8.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

My motor + turbo setup is worth more than your life. And really, I don't feel the need to fill up an entire page listing my engine "mods" when it has nothing to do with the subject at hand. You don't need to possess anything other than common sense to know that half vtec is better than no vtec.

 

you sure do get worked up about it.

 

ok ok ok.. enough arguing.. don't get my thread locked, this is the longest one i've had yet!!!
not yet.. i JUST ordered it last friday, he should have just got my turbo today to start fab. I've also having him make my DP. He said everythin should be done in 4-6 weeks since i'm ordering two custom parts, and everything is one off.. His name is Ron, RLD fabrication.. here's a link to his thread.. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1851250

just curious, what kind of boost do you suppose i'll need to reach my goals.. if honda400ex did 19 by 5k, and if i'm supposed to spool faster with this manifold, i can KIND of get an idea as to where i'll hit full boost at if i have an educated (because i have none in this area, as you can tell lol) guess as to what i'll need..

I read that thread today.. if the same boost made 5-10% more power with less compression, you're saying i'd be worse off raising it? i though higher compression meant more power, but hotter internal temps, and higher chance for detonation? like drum said, i'm going to need all the help i can get to spool this thing.. i haven't milled anything yet, i'm actually going to pick up the block this weekend, if you know something i don't (which i'm pretty sure of lol) then please save me the trouble of finding out on my own..
i'm going to get it tuned by Howard at RLZ in charlotte, as it's only like 2 hours from my house.. i might see if i can get it tuned, throw something like an off the shelf log mani on my motor, dyno it, maybe a ram horn, dyno it, then the twin scroll mani, and just see how much difference it actually makes.. but it's their dyno, and needing them is still a while off, so we'll see what happens when that time comes..

unfortunately, the funds don't match the right turbo for the application at hand.. a holset was a cheap altenative to a garrett, and i'm wanting to do a bit of a budget build, while still doing everything all out.. .. i don't know how that idea is goin to work out, but we'll see lol..

any other questions, concerns, suggestions, input whatever.. as long as it's on topic, its welcome.. thanks


Modified by slowhitEJ1 at 7:32 PM 2/20/2008


Modified by slowhitEJ1 at 7:48 PM 2/20/2008

 

I never could find any info on the h1c's flow but it does have a smaller outlet/inlet on the comp cover and would imagine it to flow slighty less than the hx35's which are around 63/lbm....so figure an h1c flows around 55lbs/min and if the setups were similar and he ran 28psi...youd need around 24-25

You also have to take into account that he might have been using a horrible intercooler, it was super hot out, and all other factors take into account of how much power you will make...id assume w/ a good setup youd be able to hit 400's in the 23-26psi range on a d...if you can ever get there w/in you given rpm limits

and on manifold choices...the log will spool it the fastest yet make the least amount of power

the ramhorn will make more over the log but take a lil longer to spool 2-300 rpms

and the twin scroll would give thee best power and have a slighty better spool than the ramhorn alone

 

ok cool.. that's not bad i don't believe.. if worst comes to worst, i'll just have to sell the manifold and turbo, or keep the manifold and find a smaller turbo with a twin scroll housing..

from what i'm understanding, i'm pretty much going to HAVE to build the head to have any usable RPM's out of this thing.. only way to tell for sure is to build it and see...

 

Legion your not getting the point.
Practically everything on the car was near free.
And the y7 head was free, and I can get more free.

It obviously worked out very well for me given my previous track times for the past 4 years.

I apologize for the thread jacking slowej1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowhitEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok cool.. that's not bad i don't believe.. if worst comes to worst, i'll just have to sell the manifold and turbo, or keep the manifold and find a smaller turbo with a twin scroll housing..

from what i'm understanding, i'm pretty much going to HAVE to build the head to have any usable RPM's out of this thing.. only way to tell for sure is to build it and see... </TD></TR></TABLE>

springs and a cam and you should be able to rev the motor to 8K easily. it wont be THAT lazy. if you change your mind theres always a GT30R that comes with a divided housing. personally i think the holset will be just fine. if im not mistaken too, bullseye power makes a smaller exhuast housing for HX35's you may want to check into.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
bullseye power makes a smaller exhuast housing for HX35's you may want to check into.</TD></TR></TABLE>

they do but its not divided and holset hy35's have a 9cm housing...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

springs and a cam and you should be able to rev the motor to 8K easily. it wont be THAT lazy. if you change your mind theres always a GT30R that comes with a divided housing. personally i think the holset will be just fine. if im not mistaken too, bullseye power makes a smaller exhuast housing for HX35's you may want to check into.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was going to use skunk2 springs, valves, and retainers.. but i recently found the KMS valve train i think i might do.. FJdistributors (same FJT that sells Vitaras) says it will rev to <U>11,000 RPM's</U>. but i know that's not possible.. they sound pretty good, and i know they've been around a while, but personally i've never heard anything about them.. anyone heard anything good/bad/otherwise about these?

 

you can make 400 with less than 25 psi on a d-series.. mine made 418 at 22 psi.. and 473 with 22 psi and nitrous.. wth 50 trim..the turbo will work fine.. the will hit a little late.. i had a built valve train with jg cam and i revved out to 8300.. i think it helped alot since i wasnt hitting full boost till around 4700.. and i think a 4700-8300 powerband is better than 5000 to 7000.. you have the turbo hat can rev that high so do it

 

what internals/compression/setup did you have?

 

jg pro series block. 9.1 arias pistins.crower rods. jg pro series race head.. with crower valve train.. and jg85vt35 cam.. and thats bout it..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 418whpturboD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jg pro series block. 9.1 arias pistins.crower rods. jg pro series race head.. with crower valve train.. and jg85vt35 cam.. and thats bout it.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

w00t, someone else rockin' the JG pro head . I see you also opted to replace their valvetrain though . JG retainers suck ***.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 418whpturboD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can make 400 with less than 25 psi on a d-series.. mine made 418 at 22 psi.. and 473 with 22 psi and nitrous.. wth 50 trim..the turbo will work fine.. the will hit a little late.. i had a built valve train with jg cam and i revved out to 8300.. i think it helped alot since i wasnt hitting full boost till around 4700.. and i think a 4700-8300 powerband is better than 5000 to 7000.. you have the turbo hat can rev that high so do it</TD></TR></TABLE>

2?'s....what was your a/r's and whats the flow rate of the 50trim, cant remember?&gt;

 

Holset turbo is what's next in line if my garrett doesn't work out.

 

Good luck on the setup, look foward to see how it does. I picked up a well used hx35 to try on the little bastard later this year.

 

yeah... i got mine as a rebuild.. it has a rebuild part number on it and all.. new fins on the intake side it looks like.. damn clean, and sharp edges on them too.. there's some scuffing on the intake side from where it looks like the old one may have got a little loose.. pretty nice though, has a LITTLE shaft play, but i've heard journal bearings are supposed to have some to accomodate for oil inbetween the bearings and the shaft.. i tried to make the fans hit the side of the housing by hand, but they didn't hit, but that doesn't mean something won't happen when it's spinning at 130k right? how much is too much shaft play?