highest pump gas numbers?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Things happen linearly with boost, there should never been a situation where you make a high boost pass like that and the a/f ratio is that jacked up. If it was tuned at 10psi, and 15psi, then you can interpolate up and get the fuel very close. Either you tuned one row and didn't touch the rest, or just just cranked the boost up w/o tuning down low. I can't think of any other explanation of a fuel curve like that at that power level...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Extrapolate...interpolate is between two points.
Extrapolate...interpolate is between two points.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Things happen linearly with boost, there should never been a situation where you make a high boost pass like that and the a/f ratio is that jacked up. If it was tuned at 10psi, and 15psi, then you can interpolate up and get the fuel very close. Either you tuned one row and didn't touch the rest, or just just cranked the boost up w/o tuning down low. I can't think of any other explanation of a fuel curve like that at that power level...</TD></TR></TABLE>exactly, If you have VE figured out at low boost you should be able to have the remaining boost levels tuned without any problems unless there is a drop in fuel pressure or if the the injectors are running static. I personally cant beleive that the engine from that dyno plot above is still alive. How does #3 look? lol
Things happen linearly with boost, there should never been a situation where you make a high boost pass like that and the a/f ratio is that jacked up. If it was tuned at 10psi, and 15psi, then you can interpolate up and get the fuel very close. Either you tuned one row and didn't touch the rest, or just just cranked the boost up w/o tuning down low. I can't think of any other explanation of a fuel curve like that at that power level...</TD></TR></TABLE>exactly, If you have VE figured out at low boost you should be able to have the remaining boost levels tuned without any problems unless there is a drop in fuel pressure or if the the injectors are running static. I personally cant beleive that the engine from that dyno plot above is still alive. How does #3 look? lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Things happen linearly with boost, there should never been a situation where you make a high boost pass like that and the a/f ratio is that jacked up. If it was tuned at 10psi, and 15psi, then you can interpolate up and get the fuel very close. Either you tuned one row and didn't touch the rest, or just just cranked the boost up w/o tuning down low. I can't think of any other explanation of a fuel curve like that at that power level...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a a/f ratio gauge in the car, that read richer than the one on the dyno, so it was not that lean as the dyno sheet shows.
The dyno a/f is taken through a sniffer at the end of the tail pipe.
My AEM wide band is in the down pipe, so I tend to go by my AEM gauge instead of the one on the dyno. I just use the one on the dyno as a reference to know where to adjust the a/f.
Things happen linearly with boost, there should never been a situation where you make a high boost pass like that and the a/f ratio is that jacked up. If it was tuned at 10psi, and 15psi, then you can interpolate up and get the fuel very close. Either you tuned one row and didn't touch the rest, or just just cranked the boost up w/o tuning down low. I can't think of any other explanation of a fuel curve like that at that power level...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I had a a/f ratio gauge in the car, that read richer than the one on the dyno, so it was not that lean as the dyno sheet shows.
The dyno a/f is taken through a sniffer at the end of the tail pipe.
My AEM wide band is in the down pipe, so I tend to go by my AEM gauge instead of the one on the dyno. I just use the one on the dyno as a reference to know where to adjust the a/f.
Just so others know that read this. It's not 100% true pump gas IMO. It's a water/meth injection kit as well. I have no problem with people using this, but I think it's VERY important to list this for people that think it's pure pump gas.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JG-Fabrications »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we made 462 whp on pump gas (93 octane shell v powa )
on my bone stock s2k (11:1 comp)
-James</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was that with a water/meth kit too? How much torque too, since that is the factor here. Personally I stop around 300wtrq for 93 pump gas, any on else?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JG-Fabrications »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we made 462 whp on pump gas (93 octane shell v powa )
on my bone stock s2k (11:1 comp)
-James</TD></TR></TABLE>
Was that with a water/meth kit too? How much torque too, since that is the factor here. Personally I stop around 300wtrq for 93 pump gas, any on else?
Exactly...I spend the most time mapping the car in the 12psi range or so...once I've figured out VE there...I'm turning up the boost almost every pass and the AFR are close to perfect.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just so others know that read this. It's not 100% true pump gas IMO. It's a water/meth injection kit as well. I have no problem with people using this, but I think it's VERY important to list this for people that think it's pure pump gas.
Was that with a water/meth kit too? How much torque too, since that is the factor here. Personally I stop around 300wtrq for 93 pump gas, any on else?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just so no one thinks that im hiding anything. The dyno was done with straight pump gas. I stoped by 76 gas station and filled up with 92 octane. There is NO water injection or ice on the intercooler or manifold. I dyno the car as it drives every day, well except the front bumper was off the car, cuz the car is too low for the front lip to clear the dyno lift.
Was that with a water/meth kit too? How much torque too, since that is the factor here. Personally I stop around 300wtrq for 93 pump gas, any on else?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just so no one thinks that im hiding anything. The dyno was done with straight pump gas. I stoped by 76 gas station and filled up with 92 octane. There is NO water injection or ice on the intercooler or manifold. I dyno the car as it drives every day, well except the front bumper was off the car, cuz the car is too low for the front lip to clear the dyno lift.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefstek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Just so no one thinks that im hiding anything. The dyno was done with straight pump gas. I stoped by 76 gas station and filled up with 92 octane. There is NO water injection or ice on the intercooler or manifold. I dyno the car as it drives every day, well except the front bumper was off the car, cuz the car is too low for the front lip to clear the dyno lift.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh, I'm sorry. I thought I heard you mention the use of a water/meth kit. I was prolly thinking of some other thread
Just so no one thinks that im hiding anything. The dyno was done with straight pump gas. I stoped by 76 gas station and filled up with 92 octane. There is NO water injection or ice on the intercooler or manifold. I dyno the car as it drives every day, well except the front bumper was off the car, cuz the car is too low for the front lip to clear the dyno lift.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Oh, I'm sorry. I thought I heard you mention the use of a water/meth kit. I was prolly thinking of some other thread
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Exactly...I spend the most time mapping the car in the 12psi range or so...once I've figured out VE there...I'm turning up the boost almost every pass and the AFR are close to perfect.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think I understand what you guys are saying. But why do you choose the 12psi range? Because thats close to where the stock MAP would be able to read?
I think I understand what you guys are saying. But why do you choose the 12psi range? Because thats close to where the stock MAP would be able to read?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefstek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just so no one thinks that im hiding anything. The dyno was done with straight pump gas. I stoped by 76 gas station and filled up with 92 octane. There is NO water injection or ice on the intercooler or manifold. I dyno the car as it drives every day, well except the front bumper was off the car, cuz the car is too low for the front lip to clear the dyno lift.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I seriously wouldnt brag about that chart bro...it's hideous. You should try a manual boost controller with a stiffer spring on the dyno...then play with your EBC once it's tuned. Running that lean with 92 Octane @ the 600whp level is just begging for a pile of
melted aluminum that you used to call your built motor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I seriously wouldnt brag about that chart bro...it's hideous. You should try a manual boost controller with a stiffer spring on the dyno...then play with your EBC once it's tuned. Running that lean with 92 Octane @ the 600whp level is just begging for a pile of
melted aluminum that you used to call your built motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clip the apex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I understand what you guys are saying. But why do you choose the 12psi range? Because thats close to where the stock MAP would be able to read?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, Wastegate Spring
Nope, Wastegate Spring
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I seriously wouldnt brag about that chart bro...it's hideous. You should try a manual boost controller with a stiffer spring on the dyno...then play with your EBC once it's tuned. Running that lean with 92 Octane @ the 600whp level is just begging for a pile of
melted aluminum that you used to call your built motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not bragging about the chart. I am bragging about the power I made on 92 octane. Like I said, its still need to be fine tunned. I dont' need a new boost controller with a stiffer spring, I have a AVC-R and a Tial 44 with a 9 psi spring.
The w/g is seing top and bottom boost from the boost controller so for every ponund of boost it at that much more on the top of the diaphram so it keeps it closed.
I do have to tune the boost duty so it will not go up and down anymore. I had the boost duty at 90% so if you know what im saying, you will know that its just a small adjustment that I have to do. Then it should work ok.
I seriously wouldnt brag about that chart bro...it's hideous. You should try a manual boost controller with a stiffer spring on the dyno...then play with your EBC once it's tuned. Running that lean with 92 Octane @ the 600whp level is just begging for a pile of
melted aluminum that you used to call your built motor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im not bragging about the chart. I am bragging about the power I made on 92 octane. Like I said, its still need to be fine tunned. I dont' need a new boost controller with a stiffer spring, I have a AVC-R and a Tial 44 with a 9 psi spring.
The w/g is seing top and bottom boost from the boost controller so for every ponund of boost it at that much more on the top of the diaphram so it keeps it closed.
I do have to tune the boost duty so it will not go up and down anymore. I had the boost duty at 90% so if you know what im saying, you will know that its just a small adjustment that I have to do. Then it should work ok.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by onefstek »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I had a a/f ratio gauge in the car, that read richer than the one on the dyno, so it was not that lean as the dyno sheet shows.
The dyno a/f is taken through a sniffer at the end of the tail pipe.
My AEM wide band is in the down pipe, so I tend to go by my AEM gauge instead of the one on the dyno. I just use the one on the dyno as a reference to know where to adjust the a/f. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How much leaner though??? The dyno i use reads about .8-1.0 leaner.
I had a a/f ratio gauge in the car, that read richer than the one on the dyno, so it was not that lean as the dyno sheet shows.
The dyno a/f is taken through a sniffer at the end of the tail pipe.
My AEM wide band is in the down pipe, so I tend to go by my AEM gauge instead of the one on the dyno. I just use the one on the dyno as a reference to know where to adjust the a/f. </TD></TR></TABLE>
How much leaner though??? The dyno i use reads about .8-1.0 leaner.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboJesse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
How much leaner though??? The dyno i use reads about .8-1.0 leaner. </TD></TR></TABLE>
its about 1.0 leaner on the dyno graph.
I watch the boost, a/f gauge and rpm when I run the car on the dyno. So I know that it did not went as lean as the dyno shows.
How much leaner though??? The dyno i use reads about .8-1.0 leaner. </TD></TR></TABLE>
its about 1.0 leaner on the dyno graph.
I watch the boost, a/f gauge and rpm when I run the car on the dyno. So I know that it did not went as lean as the dyno shows.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not so much that it goes lean in that spot, as the fact that the fuel curve is jacked.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea I know, but I was just starting the tune when 4th gear went in the trany. So I never had time to finish the tune.
yea I know, but I was just starting the tune when 4th gear went in the trany. So I never had time to finish the tune.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not so much that it goes lean in that spot, as the fact that the fuel curve is jacked.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree...its already off the chart between 4700 and 5500..
i agree...its already off the chart between 4700 and 5500..
Just got off the Dyno....
3 Cars, all over 400whp on 93 Octane. T67\T3, SC61 and a GT35R
The weird one was 450whp @ 18psi...Stock Bore B16, GT35R...hah.
3 Cars, all over 400whp on 93 Octane. T67\T3, SC61 and a GT35R
The weird one was 450whp @ 18psi...Stock Bore B16, GT35R...hah.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRswapandslow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the washer fluid, blue stuff, from Wal-mart is a perfect 50/50 mix of alky/water
i don't know about all the detergents that dude said they had...cause we've been running it for a while...and haven't had problems with 24psi on 93 in a 2.0l LS (Speed Phreak)
i'm not saying he's wrong, just saying i'm not aware of any of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I take it this is the winter washer fluid? Does winter and summer wash make a difference or doesnt matter which one I run?
i don't know about all the detergents that dude said they had...cause we've been running it for a while...and haven't had problems with 24psi on 93 in a 2.0l LS (Speed Phreak)
i'm not saying he's wrong, just saying i'm not aware of any of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I take it this is the winter washer fluid? Does winter and summer wash make a difference or doesnt matter which one I run?



