help me buy correct piston
Hey everyone need your help got ls bottom end (crank) (rods) with unmilled stock gsr head and oem 3 layer headgasket... which piston will get me between 10:1-10:5:1 the closer to 10:1 the better forged piston (arias,cp,weisco)? Thanks in advance!
With that being said, if you're doing an LS/V-T, then there are a couple things to consider. Putting forged pistons on factory rods isn't really worth it because the forged pistons accept a C clip to hold them on. Factory pins are pressed to fit. Also, with the higher revs you'll be making, the rod bolts are another thing you'll want to upgrade (come with forged rods already) because they're a very weak point on the LS rods.
Do a little more research. This question comes up all the time.
I have eagle rods just refering to ls stroke... would eneter specs in compression calc but cant find dome cc of pistons to enter in. Found my answer any way thanks...
That doesn't sound right. Look around, and you'll find the piston ringlands are usually the first thing to go in an LS-T. I've broke a set myself with too much timing. Forged usually give you a little bit more room for error.
With that being said, if you're doing an LS/V-T, then there are a couple things to consider. Putting forged pistons on factory rods isn't really worth it because the forged pistons accept a C clip to hold them on. Factory pins are pressed to fit. Also, with the higher revs you'll be making, the rod bolts are another thing you'll want to upgrade (come with forged rods already) because they're a very weak point on the LS rods.
Do a little more research. This question comes up all the time.
With that being said, if you're doing an LS/V-T, then there are a couple things to consider. Putting forged pistons on factory rods isn't really worth it because the forged pistons accept a C clip to hold them on. Factory pins are pressed to fit. Also, with the higher revs you'll be making, the rod bolts are another thing you'll want to upgrade (come with forged rods already) because they're a very weak point on the LS rods.
Do a little more research. This question comes up all the time.
That doesn't sound right. Look around, and you'll find the piston ringlands are usually the first thing to go in an LS-T. I've broke a set myself with too much timing. Forged usually give you a little bit more room for error.
With that being said, if you're doing an LS/V-T, then there are a couple things to consider. Putting forged pistons on factory rods isn't really worth it because the forged pistons accept a C clip to hold them on. Factory pins are pressed to fit. Also, with the higher revs you'll be making, the rod bolts are another thing you'll want to upgrade (come with forged rods already) because they're a very weak point on the LS rods.
Do a little more research. This question comes up all the time.
With that being said, if you're doing an LS/V-T, then there are a couple things to consider. Putting forged pistons on factory rods isn't really worth it because the forged pistons accept a C clip to hold them on. Factory pins are pressed to fit. Also, with the higher revs you'll be making, the rod bolts are another thing you'll want to upgrade (come with forged rods already) because they're a very weak point on the LS rods.
Do a little more research. This question comes up all the time.
and you answered your own question on why you had a problem with cast
too much timing !
forged are stronger but the drawback is you get less mileage from the engine due to that greater PWC and wear on the rings. that and if you would have magically put a forged piston in the engine you blew a cast piston in the piston MIGHT have held but you would hammer the **** out of the bearings from that detonation
still, if it's an LS i'm SO behind aftermarket rods even though technically you can use a stock rod on a floating piston, you just make it a press fit
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you can press fit a floating pin in a stock rod by expanding it on the small end
and you answered your own question on why you had a problem with cast
too much timing !
forged are stronger but the drawback is you get less mileage from the engine due to that greater PWC and wear on the rings. that and if you would have magically put a forged piston in the engine you blew a cast piston in the piston MIGHT have held but you would hammer the **** out of the bearings from that detonation
still, if it's an LS i'm SO behind aftermarket rods even though technically you can use a stock rod on a floating piston, you just make it a press fit
and you answered your own question on why you had a problem with cast
too much timing !
forged are stronger but the drawback is you get less mileage from the engine due to that greater PWC and wear on the rings. that and if you would have magically put a forged piston in the engine you blew a cast piston in the piston MIGHT have held but you would hammer the **** out of the bearings from that detonation
still, if it's an LS i'm SO behind aftermarket rods even though technically you can use a stock rod on a floating piston, you just make it a press fit
The tune is by FAR the most important thing when doing all of this work to a motor. Your tuner can blow up a brand new engine quick. OR you can get a batch of bad gas and drop the octane rating that can give you detonation and cause pistons to fail. Either way, if you have the cash, I'd spend it for piece of mind.
And I know that forged pistons CAN be made to press fit on stock rods, BUT if you're going to go through all that (sizing the rod end) then why not just get forged rods?? That's just my opinion though and we all know how those go.
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