Got the D16 cooling blues - Solution inside >>

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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 01:11 PM
  #26  
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Default Re: Got the D16 cooling blues - Solution inside >> (platinum00)

pics finally up. sorry for the long delay guys.









platinum.
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 02:00 PM
  #27  
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damn thats a nice setup how much hp/tq and how much psi
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 03:15 PM
  #28  
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Default Re: (r6king28)

Thanks for the kind words. The bay needs cleaned up a lot, but it gets driven to much an to hard to keep clean

16psi - 315whp / ~280wtq
27psi - 424whp/ 365wtq

platinum.
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 10:43 PM
  #29  
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When oil cools it will gather condensation on top. When that water "mixes" with the oil it will form acids that are corrosive to internal engine parts. If you do not burn that water off it will get worse.

SO you must get that oil up to the temp to burn the water off. The TEMP MUST REACH 212F to burn this water off.

If you keep the oil too cool it will be too thick and will not flow properly, thus not offering the same protection as oil at the proper temperature.

Dino oils should operate in the 212 -230 degree range. 240 is OK for short burst, 250 should be avoided. WIth synthetics you can run as high as 260-270 for short burst.
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Old Aug 7, 2006 | 10:55 PM
  #30  
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That fan would be much more effective if it had a shorud around it. Look at the stock fan it has a contoured shourd around the blades to force the air through the radiator. You fan allows lots of air to escape around the perimeter of the fan. You would alo benefit from some aluminum shrouding on the sides of the radiator to keep air from going around the radiator and intercooler.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 03:22 PM
  #31  
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Default Re: (turboteener)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteener &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When oil cools it will gather condensation on top. When that water "mixes" with the oil it will form acids that are corrosive to internal engine parts. If you do not burn that water off it will get worse.

SO you must get that oil up to the temp to burn the water off. The TEMP MUST REACH 212F to burn this water off.

If you keep the oil too cool it will be too thick and will not flow properly, thus not offering the same protection as oil at the proper temperature.

Dino oils should operate in the 212 -230 degree range. 240 is OK for short burst, 250 should be avoided. WIth synthetics you can run as high as 260-270 for short burst.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where are you getting this 212F number for burning water off? I know SAE rates the viscosity at 212F operating temp, but that does not mean it must get to that temp to operate correctly. This is why we now have mulit-grade oil (i.e. 10W-30 / 10 weight when cold, 30 weight when hot)

Alot of Oil Cooler thermostat companies such as Mocal, Holly, Permacool, etc... rate their thermostats for 160 - 180F which is a decent amount under 212F. If oil needed to be at 212F why would big names companies not make it above that?

I’m not stating your wrong; I am just trying to understand. This acually makes sense since water boils a 212F

platinum.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 03:23 PM
  #32  
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Default Re: (turboteener)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteener &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That fan would be much more effective if it had a shorud around it. Look at the stock fan it has a contoured shourd around the blades to force the air through the radiator. You fan allows lots of air to escape around the perimeter of the fan. You would alo benefit from some aluminum shrouding on the sides of the radiator to keep air from going around the radiator and intercooler.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im with ya on that... It's seems to be working fine without it, but if I start seeing higher temps I will fab up a shorud.

platinum.
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Old Aug 9, 2006 | 12:25 PM
  #33  
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Part of it is water boils at 212, can't get the water off the oil any other way.

As for T-stat opening temp, can't answer that one. I can theorize that engine oil doesn't get rid of heat very well, so the opening of the Tstat is specified at a certain operating range to keep the oil from gaining anymore temperature between the time of opening and movement through the cooler. Just to keep temp spikes down and buffer the radical temperature swings.

I did a little checking on this other suff:

This is from Bruce Anderson, Porsche Engine Expert:

"Porsche designed the engine to have an oil operating temperature range of 180-220 degrees. 230 is warm, 240 is hot, 250 is too damn hot."

Now seeing as how those engineers know more than I do about thermodynamics and oil flow, I will have to defer to them. But the early engines were oil cooled so they had no choice but to get it right.

One thing I read somewhere else,

Oil that is cold is much harder to pump, and takes more HP to move. There is also an increase in friction because of that.

Oil that is too cold will not move fast enough through engine and will actually form an insualtion barrier inside the engine. Oil at operating temp will cool much better. (not that it cools great, but it is better than air)

Oil that is too cold can also increase gasoline dilution. This can cause a breakdown in the level of protection afforded.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 09:55 AM
  #34  
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Default Re: Got the D16 cooling blues - Solution inside >> (platinum00)

I wanted to bring this up to date to help a few others. At least I hope.
I too was having cooling issues or at least I didn't like the engine running 205 on water temp all the time nor did I like having to the put heat on in the summer.

My old setup consisted of a Autozone 12" fan that I got for like $50 but it wasn't helping at all. I found out it was rated at like 800cfm which simply isn't enough. So I did some looking around and found this fan from Permacool (smaller than the one Platinum used BUT I used it as a puller).
http://store.summitracing.com/...w=sku

I figured this should be plenty for me. After driving it to the battle of the imports, I have determined it works extremely well. I use Neptune RTP and set the fan to kick on @ 175. The water temp gauge NEVER got above 190 so I may fiddle with neptune a little to bring that up maybe a little. Simple software change. I changed NOTHIGN else in the car at all.

All in all, I HIGHLY recommend this fan. It was worth every penny and I'm glad I ditched the other one. Oh and it is actually pretty quiet. I was surprised.

Here are some pics of comparison. And yes, it was a tight fit.





Underneath shot


Top shot.


Hope this helps others.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 11:06 AM
  #35  
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Default Re: (kyle h.)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyle h. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it helps to block the flow beside the radiator. at highway speeds the air will flow right past the half sized radiator, making it much less efficient. </TD></TR></TABLE>

what do u mean by this? cause i think ive noticed that my car runs hotter on the high way now with my half rad
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 12:47 PM
  #36  
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Default Re: (zexifiedlude)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zexifiedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what do u mean by this? cause i think ive noticed that my car runs hotter on the high way now with my half rad</TD></TR></TABLE>

Block off that area where the AC use to be with an aluminum plate. I can post pics later of mine. It works for sure. Fan helps too.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 02:22 PM
  #37  
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Default Re: (ladysman)

nice setup,does the water wetter make a difference?
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 03:45 PM
  #38  
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Default Re: (HeedLessInc)

nice ladysman...

I just ruined my new fan on the way to the body shop. The little clip that holds the fan on came loose (my fault since I switched it converting to a pusher) and it sheaded the metal blade

Once I get it back from being painted I guess I will be replacing again. Im pretty sure this wont be under warranty

platinum.
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Old Sep 19, 2006 | 03:46 PM
  #39  
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Default Re: (HeedLessInc)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HeedLessInc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice setup,does the water wetter make a difference?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Absolutely....
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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 10:18 AM
  #40  
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Default Re: (zexifiedlude)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zexifiedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do u mean by this? cause i think ive noticed that my car runs hotter on the high way now with my half rad</TD></TR></TABLE>

Simple piece of aluminum from Lowe's.

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Old Sep 24, 2006 | 07:24 PM
  #41  
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I ran a plate on half of my grill as well. The EF had a full width radiator and when I went to a half width I had a big hole there sucking in hot air. I blocked it off with a flat sheet of aluminum. Helped gas mileage.

My car runs a half width and it is just as cool in boost and out of boost as it was when NA. My IATs are acutally lower now than they were with a short ram. Intercooled air is good air.
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