riceball777

here in los angeles its been oer 100 degrees everyday. normally during cooler weather my car never over heats. my oil gaues usually reads about 210 degrees and the water temp is about 190-210. but during these 100+ degree days when i'm in traffic the car will start to over heat. water temp will goes to about 230+ and oil temp will almost hit 240-250. what is the highest degree that would be acceptiable for the water and oil temp?? i also run 30% and 70% water and i also run the oem oil cooler on my ls block which i hear does nothing

water temp sender is at top radiator house and oil temp sender is at sandwhich adaptor. i'm running a garrett t3 60-1 with the stock DA integra full size radiator and 2 slim pusher fans.

is there something wrong or do i need to get an aluminum radiator or should i get a front mount oil cooler? there is almost no clearance between the compressor and the stock radiator. i cant even put my finder between the radiator and turbo compressor. so i really dont think a fluidyny would fit would it??
of course it would never over heat when i was all motor.

boostedcivicsir

stupid question, but the polarity is correct on your pushers? are they wired in series or parallel? if they are in series, one fan will work, and the other will work, but not as well as the first one.

riceball777

i'm not sure what you mean
both my pusher fans work and blow the correct direction into the engine bay. in general i think pusher fans are a bad design and dont push much air into the engine bay due to the air hiting the radiator first.

i think i can fit a 3rd fan maybe a 10" fan as a puller next to the battery.
i kinf of want to get a full size aluminum radiator but i dont think there will be enough clearance with the compressor. how much thicker are the aluminum radiaotrs then that stock raditor?
or should i get a front mount oil cooler to lower the temps?

whats the best idea to fix this???

boostedcivicsir

i think you have other issues, if they are blowing into the engine bay the polarity is correct. i have a half fluidyne been in there for 3 years with a pusher and never overheated.

only heats up sitting still? and the fans are coming on while you are sitting still? i am just asking, because some people dont hear them. did you jump your fan switch to make sure they are actually working on the switch?

g/l bro im off to bed.

DaveF

get a half wide and a puller fan.

get rid of the pushers!!!

HiProfile

Are the blades on your fan the curved type, or straight like an airplane's prop? I noticed on mine I had to flip the blade when I switched from puller to pusher. It noticably blew more air when I fliped the blade around. As for push vs pull - pull is always better (more even pressure through the fins). I've worked with radiator setups that were made to extract every last degree of heat from that water (tweaking for an 'extra 0.1 degree'), so I know the basics of airflow.

My guess is that its just the turbo/manifold's heat killing the radiator temps.

riceball777

the fans are always on when the engine is warmed up
the blades are curved but i'm preatty sure i got then spining the correct way. i too think its just the turbo and manifold creating so much heat. it does feel a hell of a lot hotter in the engine bay compared to a all motor car. i really want a full sized aluminum radiator but i dont think there is enough clearance. and i dont want to go half size.

so what the best fix for this to lower my water and oil temps?

SiKid86

easiest would be to get a mani that would place the turbo different so you can run a bigger rad. But it wouldn't be cheep. You'd need a new down pipe too most likly. I can't see your down pipe but if you don't have a 3" it could be a good time to upgrade and get the 20-30 extra whp.

jdm'dc2sc61

not sure if it'll help, but you can try using water wetter, or propping up your hood. maybe ceramic coat the manifold and downpipe? heatwrap?

importdude2000

i would try to use it as a puller

on a DA
there is very limited air behind the fmic+support and ****

i have a puller in stock positiion
and pusher on condesor for ac

not probs so far

full rad ac/ps

riceball777

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by importdude2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would try to use it as a puller

on a DA
there is very limited air behind the fmic+support and ****

i have a puller in stock positiion
and pusher on condesor for ac

not probs so far

full rad ac/ps
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah tell me about it
DA's have no space and are near impossible to keep ac. you are one of the very few da's i seen that are boosted with ac. i still have never seen a boosted DA with a non log manifold and with ac. did you have to get custom ac lines on yours?? do you ever over heat with the ac on?

for my i'm probably going to just throw a 3rd fan as a puller next to the batter to to see if that helps.

teamlegacy

I'd suggest heatwrapping your wastegate dump-tube, downpipe, and at least hot-side IC pipes if not hot and cold. You could even go as far as getting the turbo wrap insulating thing from Thermo-tec. Also, try and find a Failsafe thermostat for your application and install that bad boy with a 50/50 mix and make sure it's free of bubbles. Like someone else suggested, add some Water Wetter, it may help.

If you can, wrap that manifold too. That bad boy looks like it gets way hot!

oscarmayer

what if his thermostat is getting stuck? what if his cap is not holding pressure? why does everyone jump to the most complexed possibilities and never look at the basics first?

check the coolant first. if it's more than a yr old, change it. change the thermostat, and change the rad cap. THEN after all that if still having issues, start looking other places. but lets get the bacucs done first. it's also cheaper since the rest of the possibilities will cost you a lot more.

teamlegacy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if his thermostat is getting stuck? what if his cap is not holding pressure? why does everyone jump to the most complexed possibilities and never look at the basics first?

check the coolant first. if it's more than a yr old, change it. change the thermostat, and change the rad cap. THEN after all that if still having issues, start looking other places. but lets get the bacucs done first. it's also cheaper since the rest of the possibilities will cost you a lot more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Those are all true, you should look at the basics why it's overheating, but that engine bay is probably SMOKIN' hot. I'd agree with oscarmayer and replace the t-stat/cap and flush the system and then invest in some heat insulation.

non-VTEC

try a mugen/spoon thermo switch to turn the cooling fans on earier.

also there was a post just recently about someone finding a slim 12" cooling fan on ebay that flows 2000cfm in puller mode which is awesome and it was also cheap.....

maybe try adding some redline water wetter in the mix also?

riceball777

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oscarmayer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if his thermostat is getting stuck? what if his cap is not holding pressure? why does everyone jump to the most complexed possibilities and never look at the basics first?

check the coolant first. if it's more than a yr old, change it. change the thermostat, and change the rad cap. THEN after all that if still having issues, start looking other places. but lets get the bacucs done first. it's also cheaper since the rest of the possibilities will cost you a lot more.</TD></TR></TABLE>
coolent is new. 30% coolent 70% water. rad cap is a brand new spoon 1.3 cap. thermo state is new. fans are always on once the car is warmed up.

today was much cooler and the car did not over heat.
i really think it just the turbo and maniofld being super hot and the coolent system not being able to handle it on stop and go traffice and 100 degree+ weather

importdude2000

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by riceball777 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yeah tell me about it
DA's have no space and are near impossible to keep ac. you are one of the very few da's i seen that are boosted with ac. i still have never seen a boosted DA with a non log manifold and with ac. did you have to get custom ac lines on yours?? do you ever over heat with the ac on?

for my i'm probably going to just throw a 3rd fan as a puller next to the batter to to see if that helps. </TD></TR></TABLE>
no overheat with ac
no custom lines(on my list tho)

i just heatwraped them and zip tie it
u cant use factory brackets