When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have taken my stock motor 01 ITR with bolt on's to the track a few times here in socal. Seems in a 20min session after about 6-7 laps the oil temp starts to rise up in the mid 200's sometimes a little higher. I back off a lap or two and get back at it.
my ? Is what's the best solution for oil temps without getting to over the top. I know the factory oil cooler is good but it needs a solid cooing sytem to help it.
currently I have factory radiator with 50/50 mix. Spoon fan switch and radiator cap.
thinking flush system add a spoon/mugen thermostat and a moroso 5.5 oil pan and it should help out quite a bit. I could add a bigger radiator aswell but I don't want car running to cool.
really trying to avoid a aftermarket oil cooler if I can.
looking for your suggestions thoughts etc
thanks in advance.
Last edited by underrated99si; 08-23-2017 at 11:23 AM.
Reason: Poor description on thread
I'd start with a good dual core radiator. Next look at ducting. Create shrouding so that all air going through the nose of the car is forced through the radiator. Depending on where you live I'd look at running straight distilled water with a bottle of water wetter.
A lower temp thermostat isn't really going to do much for you on track. Once it opens it stays open, same as stock. The oil pan will help to a point just because there is more oil in the system, but it has other benefits like baffling. That will help keep the engine from oil starving if you run sticky tires.
In the end an oil cooler is going to do the most for oil temps. You usually find a good used setrab on ebay and get the rest of the parts from racerpartswholesale for a total cost of around $250.
In the end an oil cooler is going to do the most for oil temps. .
Agreed,
Bringing water temps down helps, but wont make a significant difference in SoCal summer conditions. An external oil cooler will be needed to properly manage the heat. I have an ITR motor in my EG with a generic cooler and -10 oil lines. Recently at Buttonwillow Raceway with 104 degree ambient temps. My oil maxed out at 232. My water reached 188 with a Koyo full size radiator and Mugen thermostat. That was at the end of a 20 minute session with minimal ducting.
I also use a small 7" fan on a switch. When on track the fans are typically off, and can actually reduce the airflow through the radiator. Turning the fan on during a cool down lap can drop temps 10-15 degrees before I get back to the pits. The Moroso 5.5L pan is great for the baffling, but increasing capacity wont do much for temps. You can also try adding a good heat barrier where the header gets close to the oil pan, that will help reduce the heat soak.
I'd start with a good dual core radiator. Next look at ducting. Create shrouding so that all air going through the nose of the car is forced through the radiator. Depending on where you live I'd look at running straight distilled water with a bottle of water wetter.
A lower temp thermostat isn't really going to do much for you on track. Once it opens it stays open, same as stock. The oil pan will help to a point just because there is more oil in the system, but it has other benefits like baffling. That will help keep the engine from oil starving if you run sticky tires.
In the end an oil cooler is going to do the most for oil temps. You usually find a good used setrab on ebay and get the rest of the parts from racerpartswholesale for a total cost of around $250.
What is the best bolt in set up out there? Not looking to mod or cut stuff up. Not sure if your able to use factory fans aswell with any replacement performance radiators out there
Any of the name brands will do and most of them will come with the correct bolt pattern to bolt up your stock fan. CSF, C&R, Koyo, Fluidyne, Griffin, PWR etc. A dual core will be thicker so it'll push the fans closer to the engine a little.
Ebay and other cheap off brand radiators often use cheaper cores with lower fin density. Also the bolt holes are usually off a little.
I am personally running a universal dual pass unit from Griffin modified to tuck and clear turbo bits.
My oil and coolant temps on my B20 with a 13 row Tru-Cool core,-10 an lines, and Mocal thermo sammich adapter were about 20° less than running with out one at the track and with an OEM radiator. The temp sensors are on the upper rad hose (coolant) and oil temp sensor is at the pan. Living in AZ kinda justifies the cooler as well.
08-23-2017, 10:16 AM
Oil/water temp solution options for HPDE
