Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
08-12-2014, 04:51 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Atlantic Canada
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
Hey guys. I'll keep this to the point. Car is 93 hatch with obd1 b18b1 swap. 180k ish kms on engine, rebuilt trans. Burns oil but not a whole lot. I'm doing this on a budget, trying not to cut corners where it really matters. What do you think of what I have so far? My goal is to hit 300whp on a dynojet. Dyno tuned by local tuner on Neptune rtp, maybe 12-15psi area? Will be tuned on 91 octane
Plan to rebuild my b18b1 with:
OEM valve seals
OEM piston rings (hone cylinders)
OEM head gasket
OEM timing belt
OEM water pump
New valve cover gasket
ARP head studs
Valve lash adjustment
I can change the head gasket etc myself but not sure about the rest.. What should I really worry about while I'm in there? I read its not necessary to build internals for 300whp. Cheaper to replace with a stock b18 if it goes..
All parts are used:
garret 60-1 journal bearing turbo, .63 ar no shaft play, unsure what stage turbine wheel (how do I determine this?)
Afi ramhorn manifold t3, 44mm v band
2.5" intercooler piping off DC integra
Precision intercooler 31x9x2.5
Xs bov.. Going to remove and use my greddy type rs bov
I have a 3" downpipe with big dent in it
Act hdss clutch/pp
Going to resurface my gsr flywheel
Aem uego wideband
Oil feed & return lines
Still need:
Wastegate
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Injectors, possibly buying Bosch 1000s
Map sensor
Boost and water temp gauges
Boost controller?
Upgrade to 3" exhaust. Current is 2.36", I think I've decided I don't wanna try and keep it.
oil filter sandwich plate or oil pressure feed
Oil pan bung welded or pan w/ bung
That's off the top of my head. Opinions? Am I on the right track? Car will be fairly daily driven 6 months of the year. Tracked on some weekends. I'll have a spare engine as backup.. May rebuild the same or fully rebuild, or even go gsr by then, idk that far ahead yet. I know this turbo will allow me to get more when I want it eventually
Edit: I plan on using rotella 15w-40 oil
Plan to rebuild my b18b1 with:
OEM valve seals
OEM piston rings (hone cylinders)
OEM head gasket
OEM timing belt
OEM water pump
New valve cover gasket
ARP head studs
Valve lash adjustment
I can change the head gasket etc myself but not sure about the rest.. What should I really worry about while I'm in there? I read its not necessary to build internals for 300whp. Cheaper to replace with a stock b18 if it goes..
All parts are used:
garret 60-1 journal bearing turbo, .63 ar no shaft play, unsure what stage turbine wheel (how do I determine this?)
Afi ramhorn manifold t3, 44mm v band
2.5" intercooler piping off DC integra
Precision intercooler 31x9x2.5
Xs bov.. Going to remove and use my greddy type rs bov
I have a 3" downpipe with big dent in it
Act hdss clutch/pp
Going to resurface my gsr flywheel
Aem uego wideband
Oil feed & return lines
Still need:
Wastegate
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Injectors, possibly buying Bosch 1000s
Map sensor
Boost and water temp gauges
Boost controller?
Upgrade to 3" exhaust. Current is 2.36", I think I've decided I don't wanna try and keep it.
oil filter sandwich plate or oil pressure feed
Oil pan bung welded or pan w/ bung
That's off the top of my head. Opinions? Am I on the right track? Car will be fairly daily driven 6 months of the year. Tracked on some weekends. I'll have a spare engine as backup.. May rebuild the same or fully rebuild, or even go gsr by then, idk that far ahead yet. I know this turbo will allow me to get more when I want it eventually
Edit: I plan on using rotella 15w-40 oil
08-12-2014, 05:04 PM
#2
08-12-2014, 05:08 PM
#3
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
Don't need pistons and rods for a B18 to reach 300. It's definitely a good idea (much better longevity and reliability, and a chance for more power), especially since you'll have the motor apart, but it's not strictly necessary.
Personally, I would.
Personally, I would.
08-12-2014, 05:16 PM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Atlantic Canada
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
I've got it in my head that pistons and rods would be over $1000 alone. Then I start getting into paying machine shops. I liked the idea of buying a $300 b18 and dropping it in when it goes but I also want a good setup.. Maybe I'll look into doing rods and pistons while I'm in there. Im going back to school this fall though so funds are tight
08-12-2014, 05:22 PM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Atlantic Canada
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
I realize 1000cc injectors would be overkill but I'd be getting them for a good deal from a buddy. I'd be done with them for good then too
08-12-2014, 06:41 PM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
All you need are rods. Stock pistons can hold 300whp, with a good tune! Eagle rods are only $330.
You have to take the block to the machine shop anyway to get it honed and cleaned.
You have to take the block to the machine shop anyway to get it honed and cleaned.
08-12-2014, 08:17 PM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
A good in between choice is upgrade the stock rods with ARP rod bolts (resize big ends) and buy Nippon "turbo" pistons for $180 shipped. Nippon pistons are cast but have much thicker ring lands. This is the way I went with my build. Good luck with it.
Trending Topics
08-13-2014, 05:10 AM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: CAPITAL CITY Tallahassee D.S., Florida, U.S.A
Posts: 2,368
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
Nothing wrong with running 1000cc injectors with this set-up...it only gives you room for later down the road if you decide to build for more power.. good luck with your build
08-13-2014, 05:33 AM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MN
Posts: 12,561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
see below
Good luck sir.
Hey guys. I'll keep this to the point. Car is 93 hatch with obd1 b18b1 swap. 180k ish kms on engine, rebuilt trans. Burns oil but not a whole lot. I'm doing this on a budget, trying not to cut corners where it really matters. What do you think of what I have so far? My goal is to hit 300whp on a dynojet. Dyno tuned by local tuner on Neptune rtp, maybe 12-15psi area? Will be tuned on 91 octane
Plan to rebuild my b18b1 with:
OEM valve seals I perfer like supertech/viton)
OEM piston rings (hone cylinders) i would get overize cast pistons to ensure bores are true. cast pistons/rings are $95-110 shipped
OEM head gasket
OEM timing belt
OEM water pump
OEM:
- tensioner
- oil pan gasket
- pickup tube gasket
- oil pump oring
- dowel pins if needed
- rear main seal
- oil pump
New valve cover gasket
ARP head studs
stock LS rds with arp rod bolts tq to 30lbs- please recondition big rod end
acl bearings
I can change the head gasket etc myself but not sure about the rest.. What should I really worry about while I'm in there? I read its not necessary to build internals for 300whp. Cheaper to replace with a stock b18 if it goes..
All parts are used:
garret 60-1 journal bearing turbo, .63 ar no shaft play, unsure what stage turbine wheel (how do I determine this?)
Afi ramhorn manifold t3, 44mm v band
2.5" intercooler piping off DC integra ... make sure to have bead rolled ends
Precision intercooler 31x9x2.5
qaulity tbolt clamps & couplers
Xs bov.. Going to remove and use my greddy type rs bov ....meh...just make sure they don't leak)
I have a 3" downpipe with big dent in it as long as the dent doesn't make ID smaller than 2.5, you should be fine. lol
Act hdss clutch/pp
Going to resurface my gsr flywheel
Aem uego wideband
Oil feed & return lines
Still need:
Wastegate
Walbro 255 fuel pump .......get relay kit to wire it direct to battery too.
Injectors, possibly buying Bosch 1000s .... if your only on 91octane, get some cleaned evo8-9 pinktop 560cc injectors.
Map sensor
Boost and water temp gauges
Boost controller? .... for mbc get grimspeed.... hands down best and only one i reccomend.
Upgrade to 3" exhaust. Current is 2.36", I think I've decided I don't wanna try and keep it. ...2.36 isn't going to make/break your 300whp goal. I would save this as the last mod incase other expenses come up.
oil filter sandwich plate or oil pressure feed
Oil pan bung welded or pan w/ bung .... for your return line, look into pushlock fittings..
That's off the top of my head. Opinions? Am I on the right track? Car will be fairly daily driven 6 months of the year. Tracked on some weekends. I'll have a spare engine as backup.. May rebuild the same or fully rebuild, or even go gsr by then, idk that far ahead yet. I know this turbo will allow me to get more when I want it eventually
I would get victor x intake manifold, stock tb, regrind rocket cams, rocket snapfit valve springs & inspect your keepers, if they look too worn down get manley keepers $50-60 for all 16 pairs.
Edit: I plan on using rotella 15w-40 oil
Plan to rebuild my b18b1 with:
OEM valve seals I perfer like supertech/viton)
OEM piston rings (hone cylinders) i would get overize cast pistons to ensure bores are true. cast pistons/rings are $95-110 shipped
OEM head gasket
OEM timing belt
OEM water pump
OEM:
- tensioner
- oil pan gasket
- pickup tube gasket
- oil pump oring
- dowel pins if needed
- rear main seal
- oil pump
New valve cover gasket
ARP head studs
stock LS rds with arp rod bolts tq to 30lbs- please recondition big rod end
acl bearings
I can change the head gasket etc myself but not sure about the rest.. What should I really worry about while I'm in there? I read its not necessary to build internals for 300whp. Cheaper to replace with a stock b18 if it goes..
All parts are used:
garret 60-1 journal bearing turbo, .63 ar no shaft play, unsure what stage turbine wheel (how do I determine this?)
Afi ramhorn manifold t3, 44mm v band
2.5" intercooler piping off DC integra ... make sure to have bead rolled ends
Precision intercooler 31x9x2.5
qaulity tbolt clamps & couplers
Xs bov.. Going to remove and use my greddy type rs bov ....meh...just make sure they don't leak)
I have a 3" downpipe with big dent in it as long as the dent doesn't make ID smaller than 2.5, you should be fine. lol
Act hdss clutch/pp
Going to resurface my gsr flywheel
Aem uego wideband
Oil feed & return lines
Still need:
Wastegate
Walbro 255 fuel pump .......get relay kit to wire it direct to battery too.
Injectors, possibly buying Bosch 1000s .... if your only on 91octane, get some cleaned evo8-9 pinktop 560cc injectors.
Map sensor
Boost and water temp gauges
Boost controller? .... for mbc get grimspeed.... hands down best and only one i reccomend.
Upgrade to 3" exhaust. Current is 2.36", I think I've decided I don't wanna try and keep it. ...2.36 isn't going to make/break your 300whp goal. I would save this as the last mod incase other expenses come up.
oil filter sandwich plate or oil pressure feed
Oil pan bung welded or pan w/ bung .... for your return line, look into pushlock fittings..
That's off the top of my head. Opinions? Am I on the right track? Car will be fairly daily driven 6 months of the year. Tracked on some weekends. I'll have a spare engine as backup.. May rebuild the same or fully rebuild, or even go gsr by then, idk that far ahead yet. I know this turbo will allow me to get more when I want it eventually
I would get victor x intake manifold, stock tb, regrind rocket cams, rocket snapfit valve springs & inspect your keepers, if they look too worn down get manley keepers $50-60 for all 16 pairs.
Edit: I plan on using rotella 15w-40 oil
Good luck sir.
08-13-2014, 06:31 AM
#10
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
Mine is slightly different, but similar to Charlie Moua. My responses are in Green.
Hey guys. I'll keep this to the point. Car is 93 hatch with obd1 b18b1 swap. 180k ish kms on engine, rebuilt trans. Burns oil but not a whole lot. I'm doing this on a budget, trying not to cut corners where it really matters. What do you think of what I have so far? My goal is to hit 300whp on a dynojet. Dyno tuned by local tuner on Neptune rtp, maybe 12-15psi area? Will be tuned on 91 octane
Plan to rebuild my b18b1 with:
OEM valve seals OEM can work. They don't have to be supertech or viton
OEM piston rings (hone cylinders)
OEM head gasket
OEM timing belt
OEM water pump
As Charlie Moua stated, Oil Pick-up, tensioner, oil pick up gasket, etc.
New valve cover gasket
ARP head studs Couldn't hurt, but if doing that, might as well do the whole engine with piston/rod combination
Valve lash adjustment That's just normal maintenance. you'd be silly not to perform that
I can change the head gasket etc myself but not sure about the rest.. What should I really worry about while I'm in there? I read its not necessary to build internals for 300whp. Cheaper to replace with a stock b18 if it goes..
Don't fool yourself. B18B1s overall are starting to climb in value and price. for 300whp, general good maintenance is more parmount than even the ARP studs, new oil pick-up and tensioner. Without good mechanical order, all of this is rather moot.
All parts are used:
garret 60-1 journal bearing turbo, .63 ar no shaft play, unsure what stage turbine wheel (how do I determine this?)
This is WAY too big, regardless of the turbine wheel (In order to know what exhaust wheel you have, you need to remove the turbine housing and measure the inducer and exducer. More than likely you have a 65mm wheel diameter, which works, but the compressor housing and wheel are just a big mismatch regardless.
Afi ramhorn manifold t3, 44mm v band Huge for just 300whp. this could be done much more simply done without all the "Race sized" components. I mean, you already have them sure, but real overkill here
2.5" intercooler piping off DC integra as stated, bead rolled is best
Precision intercooler 31x9x2.5
Xs bov.. Going to remove and use my greddy type rs bov Good idea. It won't leak..
I have a 3" downpipe with big dent in it Fix the dent.
Act hdss clutch/pp
Going to resurface my gsr flywheel
Aem uego wideband
Oil feed & return lines
Still need:
Wastegate
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Injectors, possibly buying Bosch 1000s A bit much, and unnecessary, but ok.
Map sensor
Boost and water temp gauges
Boost controller? Grimspeed works, but so does Hallman ES. Both are simple and easy to use Manual controllers. No need for all the electronic stuff
Upgrade to 3" exhaust. Current is 2.36", I think I've decided I don't wanna try and keep it.
Good idea. Get a real 3" exhaust.
oil filter sandwich plate or oil pressure feed
Depends upon what you want to add later. A simple oil feed with a distribution block on the oil sending unit is just fine. Use the oil sandwich for other gauges or oil cooler or some other apparatus.
Oil pan bung welded or pan w/ bung
Stick with the OEM. The Moreoso makes things a little difficult on the return line end.
That's off the top of my head. Opinions? Am I on the right track? Car will be fairly daily driven 6 months of the year. Tracked on some weekends. I'll have a spare engine as backup.. May rebuild the same or fully rebuild, or even go gsr by then, idk that far ahead yet. I know this turbo will allow me to get more when I want it eventually
Edit: I plan on using rotella 15w-40 oil
Plan to rebuild my b18b1 with:
OEM valve seals OEM can work. They don't have to be supertech or viton
OEM piston rings (hone cylinders)
OEM head gasket
OEM timing belt
OEM water pump
As Charlie Moua stated, Oil Pick-up, tensioner, oil pick up gasket, etc.
New valve cover gasket
ARP head studs Couldn't hurt, but if doing that, might as well do the whole engine with piston/rod combination
Valve lash adjustment That's just normal maintenance. you'd be silly not to perform that
I can change the head gasket etc myself but not sure about the rest.. What should I really worry about while I'm in there? I read its not necessary to build internals for 300whp. Cheaper to replace with a stock b18 if it goes..
Don't fool yourself. B18B1s overall are starting to climb in value and price. for 300whp, general good maintenance is more parmount than even the ARP studs, new oil pick-up and tensioner. Without good mechanical order, all of this is rather moot.
All parts are used:
garret 60-1 journal bearing turbo, .63 ar no shaft play, unsure what stage turbine wheel (how do I determine this?)
This is WAY too big, regardless of the turbine wheel (In order to know what exhaust wheel you have, you need to remove the turbine housing and measure the inducer and exducer. More than likely you have a 65mm wheel diameter, which works, but the compressor housing and wheel are just a big mismatch regardless.
Afi ramhorn manifold t3, 44mm v band Huge for just 300whp. this could be done much more simply done without all the "Race sized" components. I mean, you already have them sure, but real overkill here
2.5" intercooler piping off DC integra as stated, bead rolled is best
Precision intercooler 31x9x2.5
Xs bov.. Going to remove and use my greddy type rs bov Good idea. It won't leak..
I have a 3" downpipe with big dent in it Fix the dent.
Act hdss clutch/pp
Going to resurface my gsr flywheel
Aem uego wideband
Oil feed & return lines
Still need:
Wastegate
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Injectors, possibly buying Bosch 1000s A bit much, and unnecessary, but ok.
Map sensor
Boost and water temp gauges
Boost controller? Grimspeed works, but so does Hallman ES. Both are simple and easy to use Manual controllers. No need for all the electronic stuff
Upgrade to 3" exhaust. Current is 2.36", I think I've decided I don't wanna try and keep it.
Good idea. Get a real 3" exhaust.
oil filter sandwich plate or oil pressure feed
Depends upon what you want to add later. A simple oil feed with a distribution block on the oil sending unit is just fine. Use the oil sandwich for other gauges or oil cooler or some other apparatus.
Oil pan bung welded or pan w/ bung
Stick with the OEM. The Moreoso makes things a little difficult on the return line end.
That's off the top of my head. Opinions? Am I on the right track? Car will be fairly daily driven 6 months of the year. Tracked on some weekends. I'll have a spare engine as backup.. May rebuild the same or fully rebuild, or even go gsr by then, idk that far ahead yet. I know this turbo will allow me to get more when I want it eventually
Edit: I plan on using rotella 15w-40 oil
08-14-2014, 04:26 AM
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: schooling kids in ny, usa
Posts: 9,813
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
9 Posts
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
I don't think eagle rods will work with OEM pistons lol.
A good in between choice is upgrade the stock rods with ARP rod bolts (resize big ends) and buy Nippon "turbo" pistons for $180 shipped. Nippon pistons are cast but have much thicker ring lands. This is the way I went with my build. Good luck with it.
A good in between choice is upgrade the stock rods with ARP rod bolts (resize big ends) and buy Nippon "turbo" pistons for $180 shipped. Nippon pistons are cast but have much thicker ring lands. This is the way I went with my build. Good luck with it.
do not run that turbo on a stock ls. i did it before for a few weeks while my other turbo was out getting rebuilt. it sucked. 10 psi at close to 5000 rpm.
overall listen to the shodan and charlie, the have tons of experience
08-14-2014, 06:26 AM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Atlantic Canada
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
Thanks for the replys guys I appreciate it. I bought all of the gear together (minus wideband & greddy bov) for $1000, it was name brand stuff so I jumped on it.. I was worried the turbo was too big. 300 is just the minimum I wanted to hit, then go up from there..
I'll look into building the engine more with your suggestions and maybe go for a bit more power, we'll see how my finances are this winter. I want it going for spring.
A friend of mine made 320whp on a gsr with 2.36" exhaust on a 60-1, but then the head lifted
I'll look into building the engine more with your suggestions and maybe go for a bit more power, we'll see how my finances are this winter. I want it going for spring.
A friend of mine made 320whp on a gsr with 2.36" exhaust on a 60-1, but then the head lifted
08-14-2014, 08:01 AM
#13
Man U FTW
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
For only 300whp, you dont need to run a 60-1. I would run something smaller like a T3/T04e 50trim, GT3255 or even a 57 trim. The 60-1 is a ~60lb/min turbo capable of 550whp and you're planning to make barely over half that. You could make the same peak power with a smaller turbo, but with a broader powerband
Built 9.8:1 GSR with GT3255e
GSR with Peakboost kit and T3 60-1 on 7psi and 10psi
Built 9.8:1 GSR with GT3255e
GSR with Peakboost kit and T3 60-1 on 7psi and 10psi
08-14-2014, 08:46 AM
#14
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MN
Posts: 12,561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Going turbo first time - 300whp goal
^^^ true...
but OP said he wants to start off at min 300whp.... so i wouldn't completely rule out application of that larger turbo. Certainly there are better larger turbos out there too ; )
IIRC there was a customer a while back with a funky setup (6262, top mount, vx im, e85) stock LS longblock (arp head studs) made like 400whp. I was rather surprised, but the kid didn't seem to think it was anything special for a stock longblock. I think he was trying to blow up the motor or something haha.
but OP said he wants to start off at min 300whp.... so i wouldn't completely rule out application of that larger turbo. Certainly there are better larger turbos out there too ; )
IIRC there was a customer a while back with a funky setup (6262, top mount, vx im, e85) stock LS longblock (arp head studs) made like 400whp. I was rather surprised, but the kid didn't seem to think it was anything special for a stock longblock. I think he was trying to blow up the motor or something haha.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
jlacoy82
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
3
01-09-2005 06:58 PM