ed_hdz

Hello honda-tech community (:

I am going to start prepping my engine for a modest turbo build and would like to get your approval. B18b1 with approx 150k miles, will be testing for compression soon but it still pulls strong to 125 Here is what I'm planning to do:

New piston rings - OEM (if i can find them)
New head gasket - OEM (or felpro)
New bearings (thrust, main, and rod) - ACL (or king)
Shotpeen stock rods
New rod bolts and head studs - ARP
New water pump, oil pump, and timing belt - OEM (or generic at O'reilly's)
Seals (rear main, valve, valve cover etc..)
Same pistons, unaltered

I am only looking for 240 whp. I am using a small turbo (T3 .48 hotside and .42 ar compressor) so I can spool quickly and keep a 6800 rpm red line. I also prefer a low to mid-range power band. In other words I don't mind if I stop making power at 6800 because I don't intend to rev it any higher.

Once the engine is rebuilt and running I will begin piecing together a turbo kit. Some parts I'm thinking of using:
Log manifold - Revhard or drag
T3 turbo - Turbonetics or Garrett
Tial wastegate
2.5" downpipe
(Maybe methanol injection to supplement intake cooling in this blistering Texas heat for those hot summer days in traffic?)
Can't decide on engine management yet.

I am also trying to keep A/C and power steering (94 EX coupe)

How reliable (or unreliable) would this build be? Is there any chance that it will reach 240 whp? I'm also on a college student budget, hence the short parts list (:

Which other parts would you recommend me using?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

oem rods are shot peened already, so thats not necessary, an OEM head gasket isn't necessary either, felpro head gasket kit will work fine for the whole rebuild + the rear main seal being separate. 240hp isnt much so the only thing you have to worry about is the rod bolts being upgraded and the ARP head bolts, thats pretty much a given.

ed_hdz

So you're saying i should just do a basic rebuild and throw in ARP rod bolts and head studs? I want this thing to be reliable.

I also made some charts to help me choose a turbo. I used the
[(CID * RPM * VE)/3456) * PR] formula to calculate the engine's airflow. I'm looking for a turbo that will spool rather quickly (like 3500 rpm) and not fall below 55% efficiency at 6800 rpm. Here are my calculated flow charts for a b18b1:



Any suggestion on turbos that will do the trick?

riceball777

Just bolt the turbo kit on and run it. It should be fine at such a low hp. If it blows just buy another stock engine

LightningTeg

You dont need anything done but the basics. If the engine is running good, throw a good clutch on, walbro 255 and go to town.

With a good tune the car will last forever at those power levels. If anything, just headstuds and a head gasket. Everything else stock in the engine is fine.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

You're gonna have a hard time making 240hp with that turbo. Its either a 40 or 45 trim t3 which will make at most 200hp and that's pushing it to its absolute limit.

A 60 trim straight t3 is perfrct for your goals and can be had for not much more than what you got your current turbo for.

TwinScrolled

100% stock LS w/ Evo 8 16g works pretty fantastic for me. Full boost @ 3000 rpm (15psi) with no boost taper whatsoever all the way to 7200 limit. Made 300wtq at like 3600 rpm. Hahaha

Gonna go back with the same setup with just bigger injectors and shoot for mid 300's. for a little bastard, the Evo 8 turbo must be an exception. iirc, when I first got it I figured up it was something like a .49 trim??..

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

^im about to put an evo 8 16g on my ls/vtec lol, but you cannot go by trim with a mitsu turbo as thats not how they are measured... the 16g is the wheel size.... although the evo8 /9 is actually a big 16g.

The TD05HR-16G6-10.5 turbo which is whats on the evo 8s and 9s has a compressor wheel good for 40lb/min so its no slouch... and its true twin scroll turbine housing means you can have very good response as well.

what manifold are you using for your setup? im looking for an affordable manifold without having to build my own

4g hatch

i was thinking bout trying a 16g on my stock ls-v to see how it would perform. i just wonder bout the power falling off on top end?.....and i think hes using a tubular manifold with tha tdo5 flange. u can get adapter plates on ebay but ive never had one in my hand to see how tha quality is

nealnanoHX

If the motor is healthy why rebuild it for only a 240whp goal. If the compression is good just boost it as it sits. You dont even need the ARP head studs and rod bolts for that goal but I would do them just for peace of mind. A Garrett T3T4 50 trim .63AR or a Super 60 will be a good turbos for your goal.

nealnanoHX

The TDO5HR turbo is a good turbo I have seen them make good power on B series motors but they where Vtec. I had one but sold it and now I wish I hadn't, I should have kept it and had a manifold made for it so I could take advantage of the twin scroll.