NIKADEM0

I will up upgrading my fuel pump from a Walbro 255 LPH to a 400 LPH soon. The pump's specs say 400 LPH @ 40 PSI @ 13.5 Volts.

So I am wondering how many volts normally go to the stock fuel pump and or 255 LPH ? Do I need to do something to increase and maintain the voltage? How and what should I do?

The rest of my fuel setup is ID1000, upgraded fuel rain, adjustable regulator with gauge and high flow filter. My goal is between 500-550 WHP. I basically want my setup capable of more power instead of maxing it out so down the road I can just upgrade to ID2000 if I go for 700+ WHP.

Thank you.

NIKADEM0

I'm assuming my car is usually between 12-14 volts. Just wondering if I need some sort or voltage booster or is that over kill? Mainly just want to make sure my flow of fuel is steady.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Its whatever the alternator is running at. Usually around 13.5v. However most people upgrade the wiring to thicker gauge to handle the increased amperage of the larger pumps under load.

NIKADEM0

Thank you! That answers my question.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

my alternators run at over 15 volts at times, stock pullies. my cars are weird lol

but all have hardwired fuel pump setups using a minimum of 8 gauge wiring.

the walbro 255hp in my s13 is hardwired with 8ga power and ground wiring.
the aeromotive a1000 on my civic is hardwired with 4ga power and ground (or whatever size is popular between 4 and 8, can't remember exactly lol) I didn't want any potential current limitations to hinder pump performance. I'll more than likely be getting the aeromotive pump controller as it's a dd (more than 30 minutes of constantly running) and my fuel cell is at the limit for their "minimum tank size" (15 gallon cell... has full foam in it so probably closer to 12-13 imperial gallons so I can get a little farther on roadtrips but run as little fuel on road courses to keep weight to a minimum)

I might be swapping the a1000 for a Bosch 044 eventually. I don't run e85 and the a1000 is kind of overkill for 450whp on 93 but I had it lying around... can't beat free parts from old projects. plus I can keep the 044 in car for my surge tank setup whereas the a1000 has to be outside the car at the lowest point in the fuel system (the a1000 cannot self prime like most pumps)

Zaridar

Most alternators should put out 14.2-14.6 v. Or somewhere there abouts. Not to say with lights stereo ac accessories on it won't drop. If ur going for high power I would hard wire with a relay.. I would assume 10 gs would be fine.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

For an OEM pump, or a very basic setup with a Walbro 255, sure...I would definitely rewire with 8g if I were putting a new fuel pump, though. Honda (along with EVERY car manufacturer out there) uses cheap wire, and even the best wire will deteriorate with time. Most of the cars on this site are more than a decade old. Wire failure = fuel pump failure = motor failure. Wire is cheap - if you're spending a few grand on a turbo setup, piping, plumbing, and a fuel pump, $15 for some new fuel pump wires should be an absolute no brainer.

NIKADEM0

For sure. I actually enjoy wiring. I will upgrade those wires. I think I've rewired almost everything in my car lol

NIKADEM0

My car doesn't even have a CD player, I installed a block of plate! My turbo sings me sweet songs. I don't know anything about relays. How do you pick one out? Where do you buy the correct kind?

shawty22

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/walbro-450lph-users-unite-3139056/

Here is so more info on the pump.

NIKADEM0

Awesome! I'll check it out. Thank you

NIKADEM0

Anyone have any experience using a "hot wire kit" ? http://m.ebay.com/itm/390093448334?cmd=VIDESC&gxo=true
Would this be something worth buying? I was thinking this, along with upgrading wires might help out.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

It's a relay. You can get relays for $5. They're just trying to make profit on the young and/or ignorant who don't understand how wiring works. Save your $23.85.

NIKADEM0

Well see that's why I asked because I don't know lol. So you can find a relay better then OEM at a hardware store? Is the OEM relay good enough? Just exploring all my options.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

The OEM relay is just fine for what you're doing. It's actually just fine until you start looking at running more than one pump. The relay isn't the problem - the old, brittle, oxygenated wires are.

NIKADEM0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/310637357573?lpid=82 I was looking at this too cause it comes with wires etc but if none of that is necessary I will stock with just upgrading the wires. Thank you!

FlewByU352

Look at the amperage for the pump. A 255LPH only needs a 30AMP relay and usually a 15AMP fuse. That being said, unless your battery is still in the engine bay... even 10 gauge would be overkill. Look at amperage of wire sizes and how long the wire can be, before stepping up to a bigger wire.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

There are only two reasons I would get a kit like that. Reason one: Convert the funky OEM non-standard relay plug to a standard relay, making it cheaper and easier to replace in the future. Reason two: Upgrade the wiring all the way to the plug without having to depin and repin it.

NIKADEM0

I'm going to upgrade my 255 to a 340 minimum, most likely a 450. I'd rather have more wire and amps available than just enough or not enough. My battery is in my hatch as well.

Zaridar

I'm wondering on the cars that are melting 8 ga wire if the pump is drawing way more than is supposed to... 8 gauge is big. 4 gauge is is battery cable......

NIKADEM0

Yeah that ain't right. That has to be a ridiculous draw of amps to melt that thick of wire.