angela_itr

Hi guys, I'm speaking from the grey and rainy UK

I've just had a Drag 3 turbo kit installed on my ITR, running RC 440cc injectors, a Walbro 255lph in-tank fuel pump, and Hondata s200 with stock internals. I'm looking to run 230-240hp initially.

The kit came with a boost dependant FMU fuel regulator - am I right in thinking this is no longer necessary with the Hondata, and should be removed? If so, do I need a replacement fuel pressure regulator or will the stock one be sufficient?

I've been getting confused with the difference between FMUs and FPRs, and which is good/bad If I need an FPR, can someone recommend a good one that comes with a gauge? I've seen the B&M ones for sale but read that they aren't adjustable?

Also I've had a missing link fitted as it came with the kit. Again, should I remove this? I read something about problems with a missing link and Hondata but didn't really understand.

Sorry for all the questions just there's not many people in the UK who have gone the turbo route so its hard to get good advice.

Thanks,
Angela

dennis

no need for missing link (you need the map to read the boost) and no need for FMU (the fuel tables will increase duty cycle of injectors). You'll probably need an FPR to set your fuel pressure with the walbro pump.

angela_itr

Thanks for the reply Dennis So if I look at something like the AEM adjustable FPR, that should do the job.

What do you guys use to monitor detonation? I was planning on using an air/fuel ratio meter, then someone suggested exhaust gas temp meter would be better?

With either of these methods, surely by the time det is detected, it could be too late. Is there anything that would give an early warning of potential detonation?

dennis

no problem...

Monitoring detonation isn't so easily done cause like you said, by the time it's audible, you've already experienced some.

Your ITR should have a knock sensor which you could use to monitor knock - you'd have to datalog it somehow. Some people like the J&S safeguard which is basically a knock sensor that will retard timing when knock is heard.

A/F and EGT won't do much to help with monitoring knock, but they're both good to monitor. You'll want a wideband O2 sensor to monitor A/F - stock narrowband won't cut it for all practical purposes. I just purchased a wideband from Zeitronix.com. Haven't used it yet, but read good things about it and the price was nice for a wideband that included datalogging.

The AEM FPR would work - I don't have any experience with it, but I hear good things. I think you can mount a gauge right on it as well. The B&M gauge would probably be fine. I bought one from camp1320 and it works great too. I just bought the cheaper B&M FPR (which is adjustable) which seems to be working fine so far. The only problem with the B&M is that you can't lower fuel pressure (only increase it). Which can lead to rich idle when trying to idle large injectors. There is a work around though if you're interested.

Your best bet if possible is to find a reputable tuner with a dyno to safely tune your hondata. As long as you're not running on the ragged edge of your motor, you should be fine w/o all the extra gauges - although they're very good to have. Personally, I'm probably just going to run a boost and oil pressure gauge once I'm tuned.

Turbocivic94

U can get wideband to monitor but if u r getting it tuned by a dealer then they'l monitor it with wideband.

angela_itr

Ok.. thats interesting. I'm probably not gonna be running more than 6psi (until I give into 'boost fever ) and will get the Hondata tuned professionally... once I find someone trustworthy. So I guess as long as its tuned safely, I could manage with an AFR or EGT just to make sure everything's ok for my own peace of mind. Whereas if I was gonna be running more on the limit, I'd be reliant on the gauges so it would be more important to get a wideband O2 sensor.. I like the sound of the J&S Knock Sensor tho, wonder how much they cost? I'll drop them an email...

So when my car goes in for tuning, they'll set the fuel maps via the Hondata to tell it how much fuel to put through depending on boost conditions etc, but then they'll also have to physically adjust the FPR? So do they just set the FPR to a base level at which it will idle fine, and then the Hondata mapping sorts out the rest?

The B&M hack, is that something to do with drilling a small hole in it? How does this work?

Again apologies for all the questions, I'm trying to hang all the random bits of my knowledge together to make some sense!

underpressure02

They will first set your fpr then tune your car. You really only need to run a higher fuel pressure if your injectors are not going to be big enough for your hp goals. IE not enough fuel at the stock feul pressure.

I would look into getting the aeromotive FPR if you are running an aftermarket fuel rail. Some people have problems with the diaphram(sp) going bad in the aem fpr.

Stan is selling the aeromotive fpr for 125 right now which is cheap and it will be the last fpr you should ever have to buy.

If you use the B&M fpr you need to cut off the top of your stock fpr then attach the B&M.

Here are a few good links that may help you answer some of your questions and give you a better idea of what is involved in tuning your car.

http://www.importbuilders.com/tuning.html

http://home.mn.rr.com/keebler65/honda/

dennis

http://theoldone.com/articles/regulator/ - link to B&M "hack" - The article explains it, but it basically works by letting excess fuel return to the tank when running higher pressures at the rail to keep you from idling rich.

angela_itr

The first article is amazing, learned so much reading through that and still more to go

How can I get in touch with Stan re the aeromotive FPR?

underpressure02

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by angela_itr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The first article is amazing, learned so much reading through that and still more to go

How can I get in touch with Stan re the aeromotive FPR?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Here you go. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=874035

Just remember you can not use this fpr with a stock fuel rail.

angela_itr

Ahh didn't realise that.. Is that the same with any other FPR, ie the AEM one? No need for me to upgrade the fuel rail at the moment.

powerofdreams8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by angela_itr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The first article is amazing, learned so much reading through that and still more to go
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ditto that. I read all the articles he has there just now. I think if everyone on H-T would read those, the world would be a better place.

underpressure02

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by angela_itr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ahh didn't realise that.. Is that the same with any other FPR, ie the AEM one? No need for me to upgrade the fuel rail at the moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope the aem one will bolt onto your stock rail. Along with the B&M.