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finally crossed over to the boost side: parts/ boost/ uego question.

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Old 01-10-2007, 10:33 PM
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Default finally crossed over to the boost side: parts/ boost/ uego question.

i decided to say f it and boost the b16b (its in an 96 civic hatch), this is my first boost project but ive been in the game for a while. my question is regarding wideband af gauges like the aem and zietronix. im boosting on 10.8cr do i need one? what are they used for? monitoring for dd? tunning only? does it eliminate my stock o2 sensor? someone told me its good to have just to be safe. ive searched a lot but im still not sure. target hp is 240-255whp at approx 7-8psi

so far i have:

turbonetics bb t3/t4 turbo (with thermal barrier on the hotside)
meutek mani RH wg neck and dumptube (with thermal barrier)
2.5" dp and all ic pipes 2.0-2.25" (with thermal barrier)
pwr intercooler
greddy bov and tial 38mm WG
misc oil lines and a RH check valve <-------------will i need that if tuned w crome?
upgraded clutch
ARP head studs <----------do i need them? it will be tuned to 9200rpm (i'll probably never rev that high though.)

fuel/tunning/electronics
RC 440's
walboro fuel pump
chipped p28 tuned by church automotive
blitz DTT DC4 for turbo timer and boost gauge. <------will it be accurate?

am i missing anything? i decided to post here cause you guys seem to use the widebands more than in other forums. the car is NOT my dd, it will see some track time (rr autox etc...)





Modified by blinx9900 at 11:44 PM 1/10/2007
Old 01-11-2007, 03:54 AM
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Default Re: finally crossed over to the boost side: parts/ boost/ uego question. (blinx9900)

A wideband gauge is not necessary. The tuner will supply his own wideband when he is tuning the car. Most people put them in their cars cause they tune the car themselves or they just like to be able to keep an eye on the AF while driving. You don't have to have the wideband eliminate your stock o2 sensor,but most wideband o2's allow a 0-1 volt signal be sent to the ECU to mimic the stock o2 sensor.

Your list looks good for the built but you can definitely cross off any check valves since you will be using crome. ARP head studs are not needed for your power goals but they are a safety measure. If you got em already, then just slap em in. Also you don't mention any valvetrain upgrades, so I hope you aren't planning on reving your stock B16 valvetrain all the way to 9200rpms.

Also you will want to put some kind of boost gauge in the car so you don't have to look at your turbo timer screen. Otherwise looks like you are well on your way.
Old 01-11-2007, 08:03 AM
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Default Re: finally crossed over to the boost side: parts/ boost/ uego question. (blinx9900)


If I were you. I would get bigger injectors. It will allow for easy power upgrade later down the road if you'd like. But if you insist in 440's, I would suggest saving a good amount of money and just run some DSM 450cc Injectors. You can get them from any junkyard for under 100 bucks. The last set I picked up a couple months back I paid around $45 bucks for.

Old 01-11-2007, 10:40 AM
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Default Re: finally crossed over to the boost side: parts/ boost/ uego question. (bigdgsr)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bigdgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also you don't mention any valvetrain upgrades, so I hope you aren't planning on reving your stock B16 valvetrain all the way to 9200rpms.

Also you will want to put some kind of boost gauge in the car so you don't have to look at your turbo timer screen. Otherwise looks like you are well on your way.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks a lot, you gave me a lot of info its a b16b (ctr) i know the block is good for 9200 rpm, i though the type-r head was too since it already has dual valve springs on the intake and exhaust, please correct me if im overrating the stock ctr head. i plan to shift at 8500, or where ever i make power, this is just incase i over rev, which is really easy to do because i have a light flywheel and ctr N1 pulley. and the short gears (ctr tranny). maybe its better i just lower the revlimiter?

is there a problem with using the TT for a boost gauge? or are you just saying that cause the screen is small and it might be a pain. i was thinking i'd try it out, if i dont like it i'll get a greddy gauge (there new one lights up amber so it maches my cluster).

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Puscifer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If I were you. I would get bigger injectors. It will allow for easy power upgrade later down the road if you'd like.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i got em for $150 new if i go any higher than 260whp im getting forged rods and pistons, and of course new injectors will then be on the list.
Old 01-11-2007, 04:04 PM
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Default Re: finally crossed over to the boost side: parts/ boost/ uego question. (blinx9900)

ttt
Old 01-11-2007, 08:31 PM
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Default Re: finally crossed over to the boost side: parts/ boost/ uego question. (blinx9900)

up
Old 01-11-2007, 09:51 PM
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Default Re: finally crossed over to the boost side: parts/ boost/ uego question. (blinx9900)

i had read bad things about n1 pulleys causing problems,not being able to absorb vibration as a regular crank pulley, or something along those lines.

and since its a b16B, your right its a ITR head, as long as you dont use high lift cams, the stock 8500 rev should be fine.

i'm going to be trying to turbo a 11:1 gsr build i think,
Old 01-11-2007, 10:51 PM
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Default Re: finally crossed over to the boost side: parts/ boost/ uego question. (darrinbrewer)

you seem to be misunderstanding this whole thing.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darrinbrewer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had read bad things about n1 pulleys causing problems,not being able to absorb vibration as a regular crank pulley, or something along those lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow i dont mean to be a dick but thats totally off topic and NOT up for discussion. pm me if you want my opinion on that.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by darrinbrewer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and since its a b16B, your right its a ITR head, as long as you dont use high lift cams, the stock 8500 rev should be fine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

neither of those two things were ever questioned.


Old 01-12-2007, 02:28 AM
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Default

isnt the stock rev limit on a b16b 9000 rpm?

also u say its going chipped by church, are they going to just give u a basemap or are u going to have your car tuned on the dyno.

the wideband is optional and not necessary.
Old 01-12-2007, 04:18 AM
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Default Re: (hybrdthry911)

The wideband is nice for piece of mind
Old 01-12-2007, 10:29 AM
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Default Re: (hybrdthry911)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hybrdthry911 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">isnt the stock rev limit on a b16b 9000 rpm?

also u say its going chipped by church, are they going to just give u a basemap or are u going to have your car tuned on the dyno.

the wideband is optional and not necessary. </TD></TR></TABLE>

stock b16b revlimit is claimed by honda to be 8400rpm but aftermarket tachs and apexi vtec acf have all confirmed its really 8600rpm.

i already have a socketed p28 Church is doing the Dyno tunning.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Synapse Motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The wideband is nice for piece of mind </TD></TR></TABLE>

can you please explain what benefits i would gain please. how would i have peace of mind. because i can see the af ratio? and if it starts going lean i can take it back to the dyno or check some other things to see whats wrong? is that why? thanks.
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