extremely lean!??? <--- need profesional opinions!
Well I have a turbo jdm gsr and its stock running about 10psi. I have a basemap from xenocron off of homemadeturbo.com. Anyway, I have just recently started realizing how lean ive been running. I never really noticed it because I am mostly concentrating on the road. I go WOT and the air fuel ratio meter (AEM uego wideband) reads about 12.7 then all of a sudden at full boost at about 6-7k rpm it jumps to 14 then to 16.2. Im not sure whats causing it... Could the broken stock o2 cause it?? Also I have the wideband o2 mounted about a foot away from the turbo. Could the extreme heat be throwing the readings off?? It is just a basemap so I know its not properly tuned, but what could be making it go all the way to 16?!? Any help is very appriciated. TIA.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen112 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have a basemap from xenocron
It is just a basemap so I know its not properly tuned
but what could be making it go all the way to 16?!? </TD></TR></TABLE>
You should know the answer already.
I have a basemap from xenocron
It is just a basemap so I know its not properly tuned
but what could be making it go all the way to 16?!? </TD></TR></TABLE>
You should know the answer already.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen112 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I have a turbo jdm gsr and its stock running about 10psi. I have a basemap from xenocron off of homemadeturbo.com. Anyway, I have just recently started realizing how lean ive been running. I never really noticed it because I am mostly concentrating on the road. I go WOT and the air fuel ratio meter (AEM uego wideband) reads about 12.7 then all of a sudden at full boost at about 6-7k rpm it jumps to 14 then to 16.2. Im not sure whats causing it... Could the broken stock o2 cause it?? Also I have the wideband o2 mounted about a foot away from the turbo. Could the extreme heat be throwing the readings off?? It is just a basemap so I know its not properly tuned, but what could be making it go all the way to 16?!? Any help is very appriciated. TIA.</TD></TR></TABLE>
a base map is just that. ENOUGH TO GET YOU TO THE DYNO TO GET TUNED.
quit beating on it and get it tuned.
a base map is just that. ENOUGH TO GET YOU TO THE DYNO TO GET TUNED.
quit beating on it and get it tuned.
If your boost level is reaching a steady psi lower in the revs, and its not going lean until 6500ish there is deff. something else going on.
I doubt Chris's base map would not maintain an even fuel curve on high cam, infact I bet it tapers up to cover those who are still on stock pumps.
Do you have a FP gauge? Walbro?
If this were my car, the first thing I would check is the serrated washers that are on each side of the banjo bolt that feeds the fuel rail.
If you have a FP gauge on what is it at idle, and what does it spike to if you go WOT for a brief moment.
I doubt Chris's base map would not maintain an even fuel curve on high cam, infact I bet it tapers up to cover those who are still on stock pumps.
Do you have a FP gauge? Walbro?
If this were my car, the first thing I would check is the serrated washers that are on each side of the banjo bolt that feeds the fuel rail.
If you have a FP gauge on what is it at idle, and what does it spike to if you go WOT for a brief moment.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by leed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your boost level is reaching a steady psi lower in the revs, and its not going lean until 6500ish there is deff. something else going on.
I doubt Chris's base map would not maintain an even fuel curve on high cam, infact I bet it tapers up to cover those who are still on stock pumps.
Do you have a FP gauge? Walbro?
If this were my car, the first thing I would check is the serrated washers that are on each side of the banjo bolt that feeds the fuel rail.
If you have a FP gauge on what is it at idle, and what does it spike to if you go WOT for a brief moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree...it def needs tuned, but it sounds like something else is going on as well.
I doubt Chris's base map would not maintain an even fuel curve on high cam, infact I bet it tapers up to cover those who are still on stock pumps.
Do you have a FP gauge? Walbro?
If this were my car, the first thing I would check is the serrated washers that are on each side of the banjo bolt that feeds the fuel rail.
If you have a FP gauge on what is it at idle, and what does it spike to if you go WOT for a brief moment.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree...it def needs tuned, but it sounds like something else is going on as well.
ok, ill have to check my washers today. thanks for the advise.
My setup is pretty basic:
obdI jdm gsr
skunk2 IM
2.5 inch down pipe with e-cut out
.63 a/r t3/t04e
2.5 inch charge pipes
DSM 1st gen bov
LSDmotorsports.com front mount
Turbonetics delta gate II wastegate
DSM 2nd gen 450cc injectors
Tubular exhaust manifold
STOCK fuel pump (maybe thats whats wrong?)
and a basemap from xenocron
My setup is pretty basic:
obdI jdm gsr
skunk2 IM
2.5 inch down pipe with e-cut out
.63 a/r t3/t04e
2.5 inch charge pipes
DSM 1st gen bov
LSDmotorsports.com front mount
Turbonetics delta gate II wastegate
DSM 2nd gen 450cc injectors
Tubular exhaust manifold
STOCK fuel pump (maybe thats whats wrong?)
and a basemap from xenocron
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If the car ran straight through with no hiccups at that load and A:F display the wideband is bad. 13.5:1 or more at 10lbs with no hiccups isnt happening
hmm... I guess that could be true... It went to 14:1 at first at about 5k then it jumped to 16. I have a video of it if anyone wishes to see it to help me solve my problems. Is it really that unlikely that I wouldnt be able to run 10lbs with 16:1 afr for only like 1-2 seconds?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen112 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm... I guess that could be true... It went to 14:1 at first at about 5k then it jumped to 16. I have a video of it if anyone wishes to see it to help me solve my problems. Is it really that unlikely that I wouldnt be able to run 10lbs with 16:1 afr for only like 1-2 seconds? </TD></TR></TABLE>
No. There would be all kinds of hiccups. That lean it would feel like you hit a wall or a rev limit. And I am sure after that you would let off
No. There would be all kinds of hiccups. That lean it would feel like you hit a wall or a rev limit. And I am sure after that you would let off
Def get the car tuned SOON. Even with those A/F's at that boost level might not lead to missing and popping. But there will def be a big loss in power. Too fix the problem get the car tuned plain and simple. Dont keep beating on it. Unless your ready for a rebuild.
Well it runs fairly strong. I put down 240whp which isnt all that impressive for a turbo gsr, I know, but for an untuned one I think its OK. I also beat a modded sti.
Here is the video of it going all the way to 16.6... What do you guys think?
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....5NTQx
Here is the video of it going all the way to 16.6... What do you guys think?
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....5NTQx
I agree. Get it tuned. Borrow another wideband sensor from someone or togo the dyno and use their sniffer. I'm positive that wideband isn't displaying the correct A:F
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugen112 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also I have the wideband o2 mounted about a foot away from the turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would DEFINITELY check with your manufacturer's recommended way of installing your wideband o2. If I remember correctly, when I installed my LC-1 wideband controller and o2 sensor, I read in the directions that it has to be a certain distance away from the turbo. I want to say 3 feet was the minimum distance from the exhaust housing but I'm not completely sure.
Good Luck Bro...
I would DEFINITELY check with your manufacturer's recommended way of installing your wideband o2. If I remember correctly, when I installed my LC-1 wideband controller and o2 sensor, I read in the directions that it has to be a certain distance away from the turbo. I want to say 3 feet was the minimum distance from the exhaust housing but I'm not completely sure.
Good Luck Bro...
this is ignorant. Your trying t fix a problem that is right in front of you.. A basemap gets you to a dyno, exactly that. It dosent get you to a dyno to make full pulls and it certainly should not get you in races.
Why could a basemap not go lean?
Chris wouldnt do this or that blah blah, chris made that map probably for the sole purpose of getting the car started and making it drive halfass good. the basemap could only have a halfass tune on it to a few pounds of boost.
Get a walbro first of all then get the car tuned, i wouldnt drive it until then let alone try to get in races.
EDIT: your sig is quite fitting
Why could a basemap not go lean?
Chris wouldnt do this or that blah blah, chris made that map probably for the sole purpose of getting the car started and making it drive halfass good. the basemap could only have a halfass tune on it to a few pounds of boost.
Get a walbro first of all then get the car tuned, i wouldnt drive it until then let alone try to get in races.
EDIT: your sig is quite fitting
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