Turbo-charged

ive been tuning cars from a group of guys that are all getting borg warner turbo's from somebody. it sounds like its s V8 guy, and for whatever reason none of them know what turbo's they have, or any of the specs on them. maybe they can be identified by the dyno charts?

both cars are walbro 255, 880cc injectors, gsr cams, s100/s200, manual boost controllers, mig welded piping with questionable couplers, sorta 3 inch exhausts....

here is the first car that we have no idea on what the turbo is. this is about 19lbs. im pretty sure this car has a boost leak..... he's going to try to see what he can fix and bring it back.




here is the 2nd car. we got to 350whp on this car and it stared missfiring real bad. changed cap and rotor and it seemed to go away. it would have an occasional real quick miss every now and then, but for the most part it didnt. this is with a stock gsr intake manifold, and a 3 inch downpipe that was crushed so bad it was maybe 2 inches where it was smashed in.

here is 8psi spring pressure.


here is 22psi. you can see one of the little misses. it only did it about 2 times with the new cap/rotor. above 8000rpm the car started leaning out so we turned it back down to 20psi. he is going to do a fuel system and 5 bar and shoot for more power/boost in a few weeks. and fix all the exhaust stuff.



something happened to my laptop and i had to tune both cars 2 times im not sure if it was a hondata problem. i deleted everything off the computer, and did a software update and everything was fine. both cars ran perfect the first time, but when the chip was burned nothing was right anymore. i thought maybe the files were saved weird or something, so i sort of made a quick duplicate of it and the cars still ran weird.... when i retuned them, the fuel curves looked exactly the same, but the fuel values were totally different. i'm going to call hondata on tuesday and see if they have ever seen this before.


Modified by Turbo-charged at 6:41 PM 9/1/2007

.CUBISH.

good to see your dyno is actually working.. mine has been working when it feels like it this week.. maybe i'll mail you my setup and u can tune it in the coupe

rorik

591 hp on a stock fuel pump??

.CUBISH.

im sure he meant stock lines

Turbo-charged

haha oops i meant walbro255. everything i work on has atleast a 255 in it, so i damn near consider it stock lol

whats your dyno doing? i went through hell with mine a few months ago. see if we have any of the same problems.

.CUBISH.

hmm lets see.. invalid floating error, runtime error, likes to not record, a/f stops sometimes, air break stops working..lol pretty much anything that can go wrong has happen.. we have 2 sets of towers and have to send them back to dynojet all the time..

Turbo-charged

hm yea that sounds about right. i have had the same tower for 5 years, and just sent it in for the first time a few months ago.

get rid of that wideband crap and buy an FJO. everything about it sooooo much better, especially logging the AFR though the ems and doing map tracing and comparing afr in the logs....im sure you know the dyno rpm and the ems rpm are usually off a bit. just makes life easier, and you dont have to buy new sensors and/or filters all the time.

.CUBISH.

yeah i usually use a separate a/f meter when tuning cars with a ems, i use the dyno a/f when doing random pulls and apexi **** for low power cars

Turbo-charged

oh yea i gotcha. my stupid air/fuel pump pretty much never works so i gave up on it. we dont do a lot of apexi cars...and most of the guys that are just doing power pulls dont even care about air fuel

tony1

Check the fuses in the stack components when you have issues, 9 times out of 10 that's what the problem is with mine, they blow fuses every once in a while for some reason.

Turbo-charged

ive only blown one fuse ever. i did check that before i sent my stack in last time.

i like calling dyno jet. you tell them the problem, than they ask you how old the part is. then it seems like no matter what they say "yea....your at about the age where it needs to be replaced" lol


i had a problem with mine where once you got in 3rd gear and started sampling, about 1000 rpm later it would say wheel speed exceeded. dynojet tried to sell me some parts that they said i needed....turns out when i went down in the pit there was a peice of a plastic bag that got on the sensor. not sure how that one happened!

dynojet said its a part thats notorious for going bad, so now i have a spare. we will see if it actually ever goes bad

.CUBISH.

yeah mine does the same thing...i have a spare sensor that sits on the roller.. the fuses pop sometimes..fix them and it still likes to act up.. oh yeah, you should see the pit when it gets really stormy here... its like 2 feet deep of sewer looking water..lol i had to rig up a bilge pump to come on whenever it rains

_Mike

Are they borg divided turbine housings too? Power level for the first one looks as if it'd be a S256 but that graph is pretty laggy. What motors are in these cars?

Testing we did w/ the S256 a few years back. GSR motor @ 22 psi.

ProPerformance

We have the same problem with our stack.Got a new one and it's been working good for about 2 months.I guess it just needs to be rebuilt every so often.

Good #'s by the way

miller

I havent had any issues with my stack, once in a blue moon the button for the break sticks but i just close the software and re-open and its good to go.


I always here about people having water in the pit, we built a steel box with 1/8"plate completly welded that incases the entire dyno so that no water could seep into the area of the unit.

boosted k20

usually the wheel pick up sensor will accumilate alot of dust. a quick blast with an air hose and some break cleaner usually fixes the problem with dynojets. also the rear sensor with the red and green lights also gets cumped up with dust. a routine cleanup should help rid dyno issues. i noticed when its extremely hot, the dyno wont work right. i usually have to let the dyno cool down for a good 1/2 hour to an hour which sucks.


but n e ways back to the original poster, those cars need to turn the boost up to make good use outta that turbo. if they're look n for only 300-400whp they should def. look into a smaller turbo

h22 civic

did you say these where v8 cars?

Turbo-charged

lol no......these guys are getting these turbo's from a V8 guy......they dont know what housings/wheels/or hell even what turbo they are getting....but it seems a few of them havnt been set up properly.

hopefully they will start buying their turbo's through us now, and we can get a turbo that is a little better matched for their application

locash

If you are using the new RomEditor4 software, occasionally it will save your .bin file as a RE4 file, but with the .bin extension.. That confused me a few times, as when I went to reopen the file after the car wouldnt run on the chip, the software wouldnt open it, until I renamed the extension.. I know why they added that .RE4 option, but its a real PITA sometimes..

Also, If any of you guys are using a Dynojet 224x 2wd and need a spare stack, let me know, I have a spare one from my 2005 Dynojet.. Dynojet originally told me I needed a new stack when I had the rpm signal loss on some cars.. Turns out that its a REALLY common problem on them.. The only time it's happened on my Dynapack is when something on the car breaks, lol.

Turbo-charged

i ran into a problem once before with the rom editor 4. hondata suggested saving each file as a re4 and also a bin. open the re4 files to tune and do your changes....then resave it as a bin file.

as far as the rpm pick up goes.....it seems to go pretty hand in hand with the condition of the car and the cars ignition system from what i have seen in terms of what car you get a good reading on. at the same time, when you get a really high power car that is spinning the tires real bad, you loose the tach signal too. i always have to dyno my car with out the tach signal hooked up....just look at horsepower vs. speed. no torque or rpm.

seems like every dyno has its ups and downs. overall ive been very happy with my dynojet.

Flexmyrex

you got 591whp out of it with a stock gsr manifold

Turbo-charged

and a downpipe that was crushed to 1.5 - 2 inches.

i was surprized myself. especially after hte ignition problems at only 350whp

BEEYOND

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you are using the new RomEditor4 software, occasionally it will save your .bin file as a RE4 file, but with the .bin extension.. That confused me a few times, as when I went to reopen the file after the car wouldnt run on the chip, the software wouldnt open it, until I renamed the extension.. I know why they added that .RE4 option, but its a real PITA sometimes..

Also, If any of you guys are using a Dynojet 224x 2wd and need a spare stack, let me know, I have a spare one from my 2005 Dynojet.. Dynojet originally told me I needed a new stack when I had the rpm signal loss on some cars.. Turns out that its a REALLY common problem on them.. The only time it's happened on my Dynapack is when something on the car breaks, lol.</TD></TR></TABLE>


hehe.... dynojet should incorporate an option called "snapshot" that dynocom has. set your snapshot at 2K rpms and get your car rpms to 2K rpms....hold it there until you are ready to record... simply press the start button.. and woooLLLAAAA....that's it... rpm is calibrated from the preset rpm@2K .... a nice option that dynojet doesn't have.... When I used to use my friend's dynojet and we had newer cars w/o spark plug wires it was a hassle.... thx for the info on the new romeditor4 though