detonation, why am i still getting it?
#1
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detonation, why am i still getting it?
im still getting rank detonation. i am running a crome basemap with .9 degree retard and about 10.5 afr. i know its rich but im trying to lean it out. any idea why this is happening? also i set up the dizzy manauly so its at the 16* stock to match cromes timing at idle. i then went back and retareded the timing to 14 manually at the dizzy and still getting detonation. what going on?
#2
Re: detonation, why am i still getting it? (the.hamburglar)
How do you know its detonation? You sure it isnt misfire or something like that? Have you tried, I don't know, removing more timing and seeing if the "detonation" goes away?
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Re: (Sketch_hs)
yea, my guess running that rich is that its missing.. if you listen to the exhaust and it stutters, almost sounds like a blip blip blip, its because it running rich not because or detonation.
PS: its really hard to have a motor get detnonation when your not diving it hard.
PS: its really hard to have a motor get detnonation when your not diving it hard.
#5
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Re: (adictionbass)
no i am driving it hard. 3rd gear wot pulls to get a good reading on the afr gauge and its around mid 10's like i mentioned earlier. i am getting detonation because my new spark plugs are white. i just dont understand why because i am running so rich with very conservative timing. i know what you mean though about the misfire. it kinda bogs a bit from 6000-7000. but thats easy to fix. i can hear it to when idling at 13:1. its in difinate need of a tune and thats what im trying to learn. i am a realy newbie when it comes to this.
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#9
Re: (adictionbass)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your idleing at 13:1 lean it out to about 15:1 and see how it runs. Under boost you should be looking for low to mid 12 AFRs</TD></TR></TABLE>
id rather keep the afr near mid to high 11
id rather keep the afr near mid to high 11
#10
Re: (the.hamburglar)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by the.hamburglar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am getting detonation because my new spark plugs are white.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it is normal that you plugs are bone white... if they are clear you don't have detonations...
i would also try to lean it out under boost to aprox. 11.8:1 or 12:1 ... 10.5:1 is far too rich and can cause some uncontrolled ignitions as well under some circumstances ... too rich is also not good.
if you run 14° ign. timing you shouldn't have any problems with detonations as all, unless you run 80 octane or +10:1 CR
maybe you can tell us how much CR,octane and boost you are running.
it is normal that you plugs are bone white... if they are clear you don't have detonations...
i would also try to lean it out under boost to aprox. 11.8:1 or 12:1 ... 10.5:1 is far too rich and can cause some uncontrolled ignitions as well under some circumstances ... too rich is also not good.
if you run 14° ign. timing you shouldn't have any problems with detonations as all, unless you run 80 octane or +10:1 CR
maybe you can tell us how much CR,octane and boost you are running.
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Re: (mrx)
If you have new plugs, do a 3rd / 4th gear pull and kill the engine.
Pull your plugs and check them.
Your ceramic (white insulator for the electrode) should "STAY" white. That area during a pull is too hot for soot to collect. You can read detonation on it by looking for specs on it, called peppering as most would say. It can be small silver specs or black. Black I believe is just light detonation that blows carbon off surrounding areas in the combustion chamber. Silver is basically small aluminum pc.'s from a more serious detonation.
You can also look at the ground strap and read that for heat range. You look for a discolored area basically like a line horizontal the thickness of a penny. The line should be towards the bend, between the base and the far end of the strap. The closer to the base = hotter and closer to the end = colder. Too hot of a plug can cause the strap to actually "glow" red like a glow plug and will pre-ignite fuel mixtures and or detonation.
The base of your spark plug should be an even layer of black soot. If it’s black w/ layered soot it could be "too" rich to the point you’re losing power. You want it to be just an even layer.
Pull your plugs and check them.
Your ceramic (white insulator for the electrode) should "STAY" white. That area during a pull is too hot for soot to collect. You can read detonation on it by looking for specs on it, called peppering as most would say. It can be small silver specs or black. Black I believe is just light detonation that blows carbon off surrounding areas in the combustion chamber. Silver is basically small aluminum pc.'s from a more serious detonation.
You can also look at the ground strap and read that for heat range. You look for a discolored area basically like a line horizontal the thickness of a penny. The line should be towards the bend, between the base and the far end of the strap. The closer to the base = hotter and closer to the end = colder. Too hot of a plug can cause the strap to actually "glow" red like a glow plug and will pre-ignite fuel mixtures and or detonation.
The base of your spark plug should be an even layer of black soot. If it’s black w/ layered soot it could be "too" rich to the point you’re losing power. You want it to be just an even layer.
#12
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Re: (Sketch_hs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sketch_hs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">get tuned</TD></TR></TABLE>
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