I will continue to work on it tonight, there are hardware changes I have to do to my fuel that might be causing issues.

As far as the car not starting, its just me and my noobishness with this stuff. I followed the tutorials and
Added 12 columns for 22psi,
Map sensor
1 degree per psi
P28 ecu and p28 maps

Added new injectors, and pretty sure this is where I am messing up. Tonight when I get my fuel pressure right I will try it again.

 

Alright. Let me know.

 

The car would not turn on the first time because of problems with my fuel, my fuel pressure was only 15psi. Thats probably why it run better on the stock ecu. Set it up to around 46 and tried it again on a stock p28 basemap and it did start. Have to spend some time on getting it to idle properly.


Also loaded the 550cc b18 turbo map preloaded on the software, changed the injectors, fuel trim and other parameters. Here is the screenshot



On both it idles and drops to rpm really low about every 10 seconds or so before it jumps back up. Not even close yet but getting dark and calling it a night, Lots of smoke as well making thing harder at night. Hopefully the smoke is not from the turbo... or gasket

Also I am noob at this but something looks extremly wrong with the map sensor is that normal? Prob not. Trying to iron out problems as I find them but I have an idea of what going on with that. This is a type s with a vtec swap along with the harness, so most likely the problem is that the plug on the harness is not connected to anything. Which makes sence, it does come with a sensor mounted on the firewall, tommorow I will use the firewall mounted plug and datalog some more, see if can clean it up.

 

Glad to hear you got it started and at least running. Keep me posted.

 

freind of mine brought up a good point, if the map is reading 44 psi then the ecu is at boost cut and probably why the rpms drop after a few seconds over and over again. I can only work on it at night right now so later I will try another plug and see what happens

 

I'm sorry I missed that part. Yes, that is definitely going to cause some issues. If you have your stock MAP sensor so you can at least get the car started I'd give that a try.

 

Last nights datalog, yea clearly something wrong with the map sensor you can see the the fuel cut going crazy.

videos below



Fixed map sensor, I almost crapped my pants when I did this, a giant cloud of smoke came out, it was huge. I pulled the plugs out and they where black but no fuel or coolant in it. No leaks but I really thought I blew the block







Vacuum is also staying steady at -20psi, Going to leave it alone until I get it insured and the wideband on so I can bring it to get tuned.

 

The second video is much better. It's not reading a steady -20, though, so not sure what you mean. Glad you got it working!

 

On my vacuum gauge

 

~$25 or less from hondapartsdeals, and I think there is a free shipping code if you search H-T/google. WHY NOT??! You know it's going to go, and probably at a VERY inopportune time. With luck it will simply "go" by blowing the intake charge into the coolant system, not by sucking coolant into a cylinder and hydrolocking it...


As far as the basemap creation, I *highly* recommend you slap some stock plugs, injectors, and MAP on there. Next change the MAP sensor & alter the basemap. Then change the injectors & alter the basemap. Then change to the colder plugs and go t00ning. Doing *everything* at once w/o experience doing so is a great way to mental exhaustion & clinical depression.

 

Yea doing it all at once is hard but its fun figuring this out. I also don't have stock injectors and I am not going to buy any. Also I am not going to pull the head off to change the gasket and its not about money. Its me being too lazy to tear this motor apart again after all this work to get it running.

On the tunning, well as I play around with Neptune it just gets easier, I enjoy working with it. Even though I found a tuner nearby I want to familiarize myself with how it work as well. Since it is impossible to take the car out of where it is if it doesn't run, I am taking this chance on learning since it needs to at least drive to the tow truck.

On tuning .... well even though I have stumbled the help files ect where really helpful..

it will be alright

 

Well just make sure you enable boost cut if you decide to do some street runs w/o tuning...

 

Yea have my boost cut at 19 psi for now..... I wont be doing any street runs with no exhaust, front end..... or insurance .

Turbo isn't connected to the intake manifold,

 

Well you need to connect your turbo piping regardless. It wont run right otherwise period. Boost cut can be brought down quite a bit to help you not break anything but that is totally up to you. As far as tuning...it took me about a week to learn then I went out and put a decent street tune on my stock gsr motor with a full-race kit(t3/t67 ho) then went to dyno and within 3 runs put down 400whp at 13psi. I was using AEM EMS tho so I dont know if Neptune is as simple as it was. AEM is not simple by any means dont get me wrong...its just there was PLENTY out there for me to read.

Happy tuning bro! Just dont break anything!

 

Yep on the turbo, it has to be connected regardless because doesnt that ruin the turbo ..

On breaking stuff.... well I iono I hope nothing is broken. I dont have any videos of the smoke, but its white, but not losing coolant in the combustion chamber. No coolant in oil, and it didnt do it running the stock ecu at 15psi fuel pressure so its probably just running stupid rich. It only smokes at startup and when adding a load , anyway leaving it alone until I get a wideband at least. WIthout one I dont know what going on

 

Well that gauge is very obviously incorrect.

 

Most likely

 

Keep me posted on your progress. Looks like you have things in order.

 

I miscalculated something, A high pressure oil pump and a scavenge pump sucking air increased oil pressure way to much to the turbo. It blew oil past the seals because at the 3000 rpm the scavenge pump can no longer keep up (my gauge reads over 100 psi). If I let the pump run for about 15 seconds before startup the car starts fine with no smoke. If I don't a huge cloud comes out.

I can only hope the turbo is still ok, it has no shaft play, no oil in the intake, no oil outside the housing etc just smoke. Looking for a restrictor right now that will fit my setup. The problem is that I need a restrictior that is male to female and can only find obx

Anyway got the intercooler back on

Edit: found one, my line measured at 1/2 an inch at the fitting so the hose itself is only about 1/4 inch.... so 4an it is. Orderd it and hopefully fixes the problem....

 

i belive function7 makes one like that man. g.l tho

 

Checked out function 7 but didnt find anything on there site, I orderd one already elsewhere. I am going to wait on the downpipe and exhaust work since I dont know if the turbo made it. If it didnt then I will have to look on what I can buy for around $400-600. Need something that will spool below 4k rpms and still give me over 300 horse at least.

If the turbo is fine, going to move the pump and put near the intercooler, that way it slopes all the way to the pump and then all it has to do is push it back up to the pan. The way its setup right now sucks oil vertically 2 feet but it flows well, guess its just to much oil.

 

Well I having problems with parts I have ordered to fix this thing, among other problems that are piling up on me right now. Soon I will have to start looking for a new job since I am severely stressed right now. My plans have to change, I will no longer try to get anywhere near my 350-400 whp goal with my current setup. If it gets 300-350 crank I will be happy. Definitely will purchase a nitrous kit since they are extremely affordable, Can also pick them up locally which is very convenient. I was also going to get a few things to make more power such as a manifold ect but going to scrap that.... The amount I have spent on entire car is insane right now, but right now I really want to focus more on suspension/body than sinking a few grand more to the motor

Since this is my only car and now it will have to commute quite a bit it is going to have to be reliable. To do this, once the car runs, sending it back to the machine shop to replace the headgasket and some minor head work among other things. Will order the last of stuff from xenocron on friday, car should be running/tuned by the 25th

 

Well hopefully everything turns out well for you. Sounds like it has been a journey.

 

Thanks, 7 months so far and this is my only car so yea its getting to me.

Anyway my plans for today are get my oil pressure problems figured out and order a wideband. This is my oil restrictor.....(ignore the zip tie!)



The problem... its too big, the hole is .75. The oil sandwich adapter is imperial and the turbo is metric so to get it to work I had to get some adapters. One of those adapter used to step down size was a restrictor and its a little bit bigger than the one below. So this one wont do anything. The other problem is that all of the restritors that are smaller that I found are male to male which wont work. At the local performance parts place they put this together..... its not the prettiest thing but it brings the hole on the restrictor to .25.





yea its a big orgy of fittings (7) but right now its the solution to my problem until I can find a male to female .25. (Its also a time thing).

While I was there I asked if they can get widebands and there happen to be a AEM uego on the shelf, so yea, that solves that.





This is where using OEM parts make it easy, OEM obd2 downpipe flange so no need to weld **** in.

Working on the ecu now to try and disable the o2 sensor and figure out what I have to do to wire in the wideband to the ecu.

(also bidding on a EBC on ebay, really hope I win it)

 

**** it, There a perfectly good hole right there, no sence it leaving it alone





Alright the oil restrictor worked to well on bringing down oil pressure.... to the point where it barely flows but the smoke didn't really stop. At this point it probably has to burn out the oil that is in there but I ordered another restrictor that should make my feed neater.

Got the gauge installed, had to play around with it a bit because it only read 14.8 regardless what was going on. Once I got it going my Afr where so lean that the gauge wouldn't even read it. Adjusted it to 12-13 but it spikes to 17 every couple of seconds, engine shakes a bit when it does it too. I can see it happening on the datalog but I cant clear it up for some reason. Anyway calling it a night, I will wire up the wideband to the ecu sometime on Sunday and continue with it