nice, get it running already. hey i have a question, you or any one here on the honda tech site. well i dont know if any one has done this, has any one ever made a pump and poured washer fluid and inject it into the intake pipe to get more power? also not sure if its the same as meth, alcohol, injection? never did research on it, but maybe some one knows. well we did it to a F22 turbo 5spd and we noticed a difference, the car pulled more harder than it did before with out it. also the fluid was being sprayed into the pipes, not just poured in while driving.

 

Well its defenitely not the same as meth or alchohol. I dont know much about meth kits and that setup so I am not sure.


OOOH and By the Way....... I GOT IT RUNNING YAAAAYYYY!!!!!!

 

nice did you just let it idle? couple revs? any heat cycles?

well i did some research more on the meth, most people will use wind sheild washer fluid with the -20* degree. im going to do this soon to my car, may be on monday. and im going to try to take my cats off and make the exhaust cut out, i talked to my friend he said he can weld it for me, and tomorrow hes gonna fix the dent on the drivers fender, and sand down the passenger door.

 

Nah not at all, I don't don't have the ecu yet so I brought fuel pressure to 25 psi and it sounded like ****, I will post a vid, it sound really bad like something is wrong in there. So I brought fuel pressure to 60psi and it stopped pinging I will post it in a bit. The 60 psi video was taken on a cell phone so I wont say much

 

Here is the crappy cell phone video, this is at 60 psi at the rail, the engine stops pinging/rattling.



This was the first start and it is at 25psi fuel pressure, This is on a stock p06 ecu, I have 575 injectors and bringing the fuel pressure down so it doesn't flood itself with fuel. The engine sounds likes it is extremely lean but it started instantly.



Oil pressure is extremely high at 110 psi, now I am not sure if its because maybe my gauge is faulty. It has 10w/30 cheap autozone oil and cheap filter, I wil drain it later and add something else. It does have a new oil pump

 

If you watch both videos a weird clattering noise can be heard, I don't really know if I should be worried. It could be the vitaras, the fact that is has no miles and has not been on for more than 15 seconds, or an issue with bearings on rods.

Oil pressure is at over 100psi

Calibrated the gauges to be sure they rest at zero, (video below)


Noise for a few seconds (video below)


No noise here (video below)


This was about 30 min later and it does it for a few seconds at startup



At this point getting the ecu, map and get it tuned, the engine was professionally built so going to trust their work right now. Didn't touch the cylinder walls only a hone so it might have piston slap, the crank is 30 under with oversized bearings, machine shop knew it was a turbo and maybe has bigger clearances. The bearings where selected by the shop since oem wouldn't work. Also vitaras are known to be noisy, the arrows are towards the flywheel.

 

dude it sounds good, i did noticed the noise at first, my car does that also, could just be the oil is not where its at and when it gets to its destination it will quiet down, try switching to 5-30, 5-30will bring the PSI down and will flow better too, 10-30 gives you higher psi with less flow, no work today? if i had gas i would fly down there quick. looks like it sounds good, so what do you need next? also if you need tuning done, let me know and ill give you hand, at least some thing so we can at least move it down the street and to the shop by taking the back roads and what not.

 

Thanks, going to have to take you up on that, I know a few places where we wont be botherd

About the noise... well I feel kinda dumb right now because I grabbed my alternator belt and was hot as hell. Took it off and the noise is gone so yea that solves that.

 

the turbo sounds sexy,.. its leaking on the return because i broke the drain on the turbo. When I get the new manifold I will fix it there are photos of it back on the thread.

 

did you at least move it back and forth or is it still on jacks? when are your next days off? also is there anything that you are missing? did you let the car warm up and such? also did the pumps work for the turbo?

 

Nope, this was a fluke thing, I spent the whole day figuring out my vacuum line and cooling. It wasn't adding up, the blox manifold I believe is obd2 but anyway it turns out I cant run cooling to the throttle body even if I wanted too since the manifold doesn't have the port.

Long story short its still missing the map sensor, ecu and controlling the fuel pressure since its fluctuating, turbo is leaking, no inter cooler. Also I have that blackbox pcv connected to valve cover.

 

also since you still running n/a ecu wouldnt the map sensor tell the ecu to stop putting fuel? i know my swap on my other car that i brought last year to your house did that to me, but those was some good time, kinda surprised that i beat the RSX.

 

Don't be...those ain't hard, regardless that car was fast as hell and u know that.

Yes, on the stock ecu the car goes in limp mode after a few seconds of reading anything over atmospheric pressure. It is almost impossible to continue driving the car in limp mode. It happened to me all the time when I had the 14b I tried to keep going and it just runs awful.

This startup wasn't supposed to happen yet, but after I finally wired in my injectors my nephew asked me if it would start now. I said yes, he asked if I could try and I did and the bastard turn on the first try instantly. Its nowhere near ready to even begin to tune, but I will try my best to get it ready in the next 2 weeks. Other than startup, I wont run this car with a stock ecu and I don't even have a map sensor on it.... or an o2 sensor. I just wanted to see if it would start, it did and sounded like ****, all the other starts was me trying different things to fix it, and it was. I am not turning this on again until this ecu gets here

 

Got a hold of my brothers pro camera to take pics of some stuff I am selling on the market and figured I take a few of these too.

HF MANIFOLD IS FOR SALE $45 with the td05h adapters.. BUY IT DAMMIT!! its in the market





[IMG]http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq151/xinginteg/IMG_2045.jpg[/I

wonder why this needs two vacuums ??

 

coming out good, i hope you get it running good and every thing you need

 

Hey so I ordered the Neptune, map sensor and bunch of other stuff and I was thinking on renting out a Dyno and doing this thing myself. I have search and contacted a lot of the shops in the area and none do Neptune, still waiting to hear back from a few.

Know about the one in Connecticut but don't want to make a 120 mile untuned ride over there. I don't think I will be able to tow it like I had planned to

Will do a bit of street tuning if I have too but ultimately this has to end up on a dyno.

 

let me know, would like to dyno my car too. would like see my numbers

 

pretty sweet build. how much have you spent in this setup if you dont mind me asking?

 

Nah I don’t mind if you want to know but let me say that I find it funny people have actually looked at it and say, “budget built huh”. I know the HF manifold makes it look like a budget build but its anything but. I have no budget on this build, but to answer your questions here are all the parts I have bought and pricing.

Only listing engine related parts

D16z6 Block, Free
P08 Head rebuild/ resurface $330
Vtec Solenoid $80
Bolts, studs ect Head parts $60
Eagle rods/ Vitaras/NPR $520
Vitaras /Hastings $120.. Had to buy them twice (yea eBay happened)
ARP Studs $115
Waterpump $70
Tensioner $35
All Bearings and Machine work $1150

OBD2 DSM Flange $60
Blox Manifold $195
AEM Gear $99
AEM Rail $125
Blox FPR $35
Xenocron Fuel Pump ~$60
Delsol VTEC wiring Harness $110
Axles $100
Precision Injectors $215
Gasket Kit $70
TopLine Oil Pump ~$110
Stage 3 Clutch/ 10lb Flywheel $300
Flywheel Bolts $80
Rebuilt Big 16G $330
Tubing $80
BOV $70
TurboWerx Scavenge $250
Gauges & sensors $130
Neptune RTP $568
Hoses ect $50
Speedfactory 4 BAR MAP $90
In bay FPG $35
Lines & Fittings $130

Missing
Exhaust Manifold
Wideband
Exhaust
Bigger Downpipe

This All I can remember right now, Total 5772 and I am sure I am missing stuff. I should keep the HF and see how much power I can make with that thing…. But I am not

 

Got my ecu from xenocron and the Map sensor.

I been playing around with it creating a basemap and trying to learn/figure out the tuning tables and I am confused. Anyway I will continue to play with it and some trial and error on Saturday. No wideband yet so no point on taking it out on the road.







Also found a few tuners not to far away, but the going rate is $700, yea considering all the stuff I still have to buy, haven't decided yet on what to do.

 

x2. I blew one in about 45 miles on 16psi. Got one from the Honda stealership and motor runs to this day without a hic-up,

 

Got them for eporturning and yes while I am worried, it looked just like that gasket I took off when it was built. Right now I am not taking the engine apart again it will have to wait until it goes.

Here is the set
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-95...Q5fAccessories

 

Yesterday started figuring out all of the leaks I have so I can try to move it. It was leaking a lot of coolant from the head due to an issue with a broken bolt. Easily fixed but the oil leak was a different story. Decided to just get rid of all of the fittings and lines for the return and just run the stock Eclipse oil return and just cut it so I can connect the scavenge pump to it. Started the car and pulled the return on the pump to see if it was working. The pump needs to scavenge oil 2 feet vertically and then push it back to the oil pan and it works flawlessly.

Tried to get it started with the Neptune ECU and a basemap I created and failed miserably, loaded a stock basemap and tried again and still failed.

 

Nice build man! Keep at it with the Neptune RTP...you will get it soon.

 

Walk me through the process you're taking to set up your basemap.