cevax

I will post pictures and blah blah later right now I just need help, I have a d16z6 and eagle rods so the block has to be notched right? Will someone tell me why, do they not fit or the clearance is to small what is it exactly.. Reason I ask is because I have a fully built d16z6 vitara with eagles completed. Crank spins fine but only the girdle is notched. The machine shop said the girdle had to be notched but the bottom of the cylinders did not he says it has sufficient clearance.

What should I do... Run it or start over

90blackcrx

Spin it over fast, does it catch or snag ? No, then don't worry. I've seen some blocks being different where you don't have to notch them out, I've seen others where you had to.

97ek-t

does the motor turn now? if so dont worry about it.. the amount of material that needs to be removed will keep it from spinning! its about 1/8 in on each side

cevax

The motor turns, Once the girdle was notched there was no interference with anything, but since everywhere I looked said notching was required I was just a bit worried/

AR Performance

your good to go

cevax

Well guess that settles that, Will still double check it though just to make sure.

I was little worried because this car has been a big roller coaster ride, I have replaced the engine 3 times with the last one being rebuilt. Its a long story but it has not been really abused, the first was just a poorly made d15 minime that it came with and was replaced about two weeks after it hit the road with a d16y7 and p08 head. That lasted 7 days and 1500miles before it broke a rod in two pieces and why it did you guys wouldn't believe it if I told you. The z6 the came after, and never really gave me issues until it slipped out of timing and then it did give me issues, it was turbo with a 14b blah blah.

This time not taking any shortcuts decided to keep the d16 platform because I thought it will be cheaper than a bseries........ and it wasn't its the same thing. Still happy I did the D instead

YES the valve cover is DUMB I know! Its what the mini brought and was used on all 3 engines. This the stock z6 with a DSM turbo kit.




The new head, its rebuilt, P&P, angle, resurfaced


AEM




I ordered the pistons and rods off ebay and was sent the wrong wrist pins for the vitara pistons, that was a total pain in the ***. Had to order another set of pistons and rings from FJT....


with the wrong pins, I didn't even know something was out of whack until I brought it to the machine shop


Here are the second set of pistons and rings















When the car stopped running decided to start the build, didn't have all the parts but couldn't just let it sit there. Found a nearby machine shop and just brought everything over.









This was all done with a Stanley tool set and a shovel.... It was a pain in the *** and my back still hurts, needless to say I have learned my lesson and got one of these.


Block


Engine cleaned, resurfaced and hone... Apparently it doesn't have to be
notched








My goal is above 300 horses with a 6800 rpm fuel cut. Using a Hondata s300 on p28 with Denso 565 injectors and AEM rail still have to order a fuel pump. Why the low fuel cut well the crank was heavily damaged and had to be turned to 30 under. Also due to very confusing discussions on OEM vs ACL vs KINGS I just told the machine shop to use whatever they use for bearings, engine was plastigauged and measured accordingly.

Used stock gaskets with an MLS stock head gasket, didn't go the cometic route, I might be wrong but didn't think it was necessary for this build and my compression is already too low. I couldn't find a regular sized cometic and way to many generic brands I just decided MLS will be good enough for this DD

Will update as I go

Kyle R

iTrader: (1)

tech_fan23

welfarepc

ive never heard of eagles in a D without notching the block.

but whatever, if it rotates without interference its all good. i think they notched the block and there was a miss-communication somewhere.

Unsivil_audio

I have, but I don't remember the specifics. I think there were slightly varying versions of eagles that only required notching on the girdle. IDK, I didn't even bother checking with mine, I just notched the block anyways.

cevax

Who knows maybe there knock off with an eagle stamp on them, all I know is that there in the motor

cevax

Got the motor and no the block was not notched, the rods went right in.





Didnt get as much done today as I hoped but w/e. I am still on the edge on the intake manifold. Have seen the stock work fine at 400hp but the blox one is only $170,.. but right now the stock will do.

welfarepc

what block is it? id love to see some pics of the block/girdle and rods.

you have turned it over, just to make sure, right?

cevax

I actually didnt take of the pan to check but did speak to people at the machine shop. I told them all the ones I have seen before needed to be notched. He said that this one didnt and it will be fine, I even turned it a few times and it went fine didnt hesitate.

On the eagle site it says that notching might be required, so maybe some really dont have to be notched?

The engine is a d16z6 I dont know what year all I know is it was pulled out of a 1996 civic/auto.

cevax

Did not do much today either since cant install the motor on my own, So I worked getting the two manifolds installed and after just installed new door panels, inside door handles or what ever they are called and messed around with other things. On that note I ordered a gauge pod for the door pillar and I installed it today and it was made backwards. So when installed the gauges face towards the windshield? It was from ebay so I wasn't surprised, it was a good laugh though.





messing with the wiring and pulling all the AC stuff


Took off the wastegate and put a smaller one, I couldn't take the exhaust manifold apart to put the new turbo on so took the new turbo apart and bolted it to the old exhaust housing so the wastegate wouldn't fit. No big deal though 6psi will be good for
break in and will just use the MBC to put it up later.



The log manifolds aren't the prettiest thing but it gets the job done and spools really fast. Everything from the turbo exhaust housing to the catalytic converter is from an eclipse.



The stock manifold for now, going to be a pain to clean it.


Will pick up a braided line for the turbo feed.. Also on that note on the TDO5H series of turbos does it matter at all what direction coolant flows on the turbo. The turbo came with all the parts needed for water cooling going to tap it off the radiator for shorter lines.

Ls_dx

iTrader: (5)

Man thats a really cool build. Thanks for sharing.
Hopefully this one sticks around alot longer then the other 3

remember to not boost on it til its tuned and broken in properly.

cevax

Yea going to take it easy on this thing I cant afford to have this break down on me it cost way to much.
Will take it easy for a good 3000 miles before I start abusing it a little.

It doesn't look like it but this thing is past 4k and Extremely out of budget but ordering a few other things tonight to finish this up.

youdontneed2cams

When you get it tuned, hopefully before you drive it any farther than the tuner, it would hurt you more than it would help to baby it for 3000 miles then start wailing on, drive it like you are going to drive it right off the bat. You need to seat the rings properly in the first few miles to prevent blow by. Just trying to pass along my experiences from a very similar situation to yours.

cevax

To be honest it is inevitable to have a turbo motor that you know hauls *** and not want to push it on clear highways BUT definitely not going to make it a ritual though, I have learned that it doesn't matter how much you spend on a motor, you can buy the best of everything and have it go to **** by abusing it.

Just got back into Honda but my last build lasted less than 300 miles for my failure on letting things properly break in.

I plan on letting it run for about half hour after first startup and during that time I will get the idle figured out among other things. Yes I know about letting the rings seat I will run the RPMS a bit for the first 10 to 20 miles and then change the oil. Afterwards though I really don't want to abuse it since everything is new. The turbo, clutch, motor ect all recommends some break in time. Just really uncomfortable just pushing it right away cause something is gonna give.

Regards to the Tune, well that is going to be complicated. The closest to me everybody tells me not to go to., just to stay away and the others are way to far away for an untuned ride. Will eventually end up doing it but at first It will be tuned between me and friends. Have an AEM series 2 EMS and just ordered a Hondata s300 on a p28 just to make it easier for me since the AEM is confusing as hell.

youdontneed2cams

Where are you located? The tune is the single most important part of the setup and shouldn't be scrimped on for sure. Between everyone on here we may be able to lead you to someone you can trust that will do the job well.

cevax

About 7miles north of Boston Massachusetts

I already placed the order on Hondata and I have a brand new AEM I will use whatever is recommended if somebody else ends up tunning it.

iamthefollower

Nice, can't wait for it to be done.

cevax

How is a throwout bearing installed? All the places I have look I think its for the older civics because it says to install the bearing on the spring and shows a picture of some spring assembly.

I took the boot off and pulled the lever off, the bearing just slid right onto the lever and put it back together.

cevax

[IMG]http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq151/xinginteg/Mobile%20Uploads/1268104247.jpg[/IMG





Engine complete, vitara setup at 75mm with eagle rods all engiine internals replaced

removed the exhaust manifold to be cleaned and repaired, removed downpipe to replace with eclipse gst obd2 downpipe, waiting for Hondata s300 ecu and wideband. Change wastegate to bigger 15psi gate, install axles and wiring.


thanks everybody thats helping put this together

cevax

So an unfortunate update, not going into details but my motor got wet. The tarp fell off and got rained on, I didnt have a header on and got water in the motor and ruined injectors and wiring. Spend the day working on it among other things, got the wiring cleaned and got the fusebox in order. The injectors are ****ed but the manifold is ok, took a bunch of little rocks off the valves, checked them for corossion and all clear. Spun the crank no stuck valves or funny noises. Checked the pistons, they still good and one of the walls have a few little marks but its ok.

It looks like I dodge a bullet, took me a bit to clean off the belt and waterpump but it got done. Have to save up for the next 2 weeks for the next pallet of parts but progress will continue soon.