My brother keeps telling me to sell it cause its not going to work . I gave up on my last one. I said the same crap everybody else says “not going to do this again, done with cars” and just like a drug addict I relapse, and here I am. I want this

 

dont quit man i had issues for 6months but my car is done and i am gettin ready to take it to the track. it will be worth it in the end.

 

Going to finish this one way or the other

 

Ok so even with a new turbo and manifold ect I am still going to have the same problem, too much oil pressure. If I run thicker oil will it make any difference or should I buy the eneos stuff. Right now it’s a 3an line, .70 and .25 restrictor and oil came out that thing like a ruptured oil well.

 

even i you just throw on an ebay manifold, turbo and downpipe, and get it tuned would be better than trying to sell it.
people, even friends and family, hate to see you succeed.

 

even i you just throw on an ebay manifold, turbo and downpipe, and get it tuned would be better than trying to sell it.
people, even friends and family, hate to see you succeed.

 

Appreciate the encouragement .... Not going to sell it, money is tight right now and I wont be able to afford the named manifolds etc. But I will keep looking around at the for sale sections,

 

Ok so looking to do a few things, a freind is going to let go of his turbo and it will do for now. I am also looking at a turbonetics turbo on craigslist (60 trim) that for sale for 300, going to try to pick that up also. As far as the manifold just going to buy a cx ram one, the one they have on their site looks like pretty good quality. There is other stuff I still have to figure out,

 

I have spent the last 5 days researching every moment I get. The first thing was the manifold, I was looking at a generic ram horn but after looking for hours I found a few of every single generic brand cracked at the wastegate. Almost every write up also said that a log type manifold will spool a turbo faster. So I decided to go with that.

Now I picked up some turbos, all spin freely, no play, blah blah but they are both pretty big. One is a t3/t04e and the garrett says a/r 60 m24 on it.... not sure if its ball bearing. I am just not sure which one to run.... the turbonetic might lag less but not sure......... INPUT PLEASE

 

Video below

 

Well using the Garrett and leaving the turbonetic as a backup and the reason why is simply how much it flows.



The garret can flow more, I will deal with the slower spool time, if its too bad I will switch it to the turbonetic. I was pretty surprised looking at the flowchart, that little 16g can flow a lot. The problem is that it doesn't matter mated to a HF manifold.... and the fact is ebay and cant hold pressure

ANYWAY it will be given away soon

 

I am going to some tough issues right now, so I haven't done anything to the car while I try and figure out my problems. Its just been sitting there, but I am still purchasing parts as I find them and unfortunately the list isn't getting any smaller. In fact its much larger now than ever before. It will be very slow (slower.9months so far) going from now on, I have to spend some time/money on myself but this will get done in due time.

 

hey man take ur time do it rite the 1st time witch u did **** happens just do u. if i was u i would put this aside and get a DD man. but keep us posted i cant wait to see this bitch rip

 

I got the whole weekend off so I will try andget a lot done on those three days. Hopefully I have no more turbo issues.

 

Well I still need a waste gate and downpipe, dump tube, catch can, and some work on the oil pan.

The body needs, brakes, shocks, tires and a severe coat of paint. Going all out on the paint, going to special order the paint (its an actually nice looking brown, I put together in my endless obsession with photoshop) and do all the body work myself. Using two different shades of color but not as a 2 stage, but to give it depth.
Anyway still have lots to go, like stated it will bee slow, I have anxiety/emotional/insomnia issues that are driving me crazy.






I ordered a cute small filter to cover up the turbo

 

Ebay turbo= FAIL
Glowshit gauges= **** don't glow no more= FAIL
Glowshit sandwich adapter= oil leak
OBX oil restrictor= FAIL! FAIL! FAIL! almost destroyed my motor (how can a restrictor be ****ed up, its a piece of metal with threads and a hole?!).
XTD clutch/Flywheels so far
YCP pistons off ebay= FAIL had to buy new ones from FJ
Ebay Headgasket= Sorry not about to wait and find out, your right Hiprofile, I was being stubborn. Cant get the OEM but will look into felpro, anyways Time to see how my block looks inside

 

when u make a dump tube just get a flange and use flex pipe looks kinda cheap but thats the point its cheap can get it at a local auto parts store for idk 10 15bux and it will work MInt. i have it on my car i love it. keep up the good work

 

OK Huge update.

I have had a lot of up and downs with this project and right now trying to eliminate any potential problems to try and get this going smoother. So of course the ebay gasket has to go and doing the process fix any issues with the motor. A friend came over which happens to be a guru and did pretty much everything, i was just in the way so here are the pics.



First thing was to remove the turbo charger and exhaust manifold.



Distributer followed







Now this is where things got interesting, the head gasket was ****ed, which is pretty amazing since the car has 1 mile on it









Look at the beautiful crack









Now 4 of the studs where really lose and two of them just came out completely, no big deal but on the other hand the block looks great, cylinder walls look good, still has assembly lube on some of the parts. Now the pistons do move quite a bit I guess so some slap will be present, but no unusual scoring on the walls or anything like that.







Now the head and block look like they where shaved quite a bit so my compression should be higher which is great!

Now the head looks great,







While the head was off, fixed the t-bracket, oil sandwich, etc etc, pretty much all the stuff that was wrong.





Then putting it back together




I know that the head is said to be torque at 75lbs to not have to torque the damn arp studs again, but it just doesn't feel like they will go that high when its being done without letting go. So the head was torqued to 53lbs







Here is after the transmission is cleaned




Here it is reassembled






So the moral of todays lesson... DON'T BUY EBAY ****!!

 

XTD clutches are great items. Used many of them and never had a problem. For your goals though you will most likely wind up needing the stage 4, not the stage 3.

Your pistons are in backwards also, but people like to argue the right way to put in Vitaras.

 

sweet good luck its a nice setup

 

I did look into the clutch before I bought it and people said good things. You are right about the stage 3 not being enough to hold the power. The pedal is real soft for some reason, I kinda like it since its so easy to drive but I can see it being a problem.

Every vitara build has the piston facing in a different direction. As I looked for info towards the flywheel is what people said was correct

 

I ran my Vitara pistons with the arrow towards the front like OEM and had no issues. If you didn't have that block bored and run at least the one size over vitaras then they are going to sit very loose in there. This is going to cause some pretty decent piston slap, especially when the engine is cold...

Your parts list adds up to a pretty expensive investment. I am assuming most of this is the work associated with the machine shop etc. I have SRP pistons, eagle rods and assembled the engine myself. I have approx 1.3k into the engine itself and around 1,500 into the turbo setup. This includes a brand new Garrett T3/T4 57 trim and a Spoolin log manifold. It just all depends on if you want new items, or if you have time to search for decent quality used items. My downpipe I purchased off ebay and I must say its quite a nice piece. It didn't fit correctly and needed to be modified, but that was to be expected. Certain things you can save on by going cheap, others its just worth the time and less headache to invest in.

My setup I also tuned myself. I am using Ectune though, not neptune. I already had the romulator and wideband and years of experience messing with Crome and previous software. If you don't know what you are doing, things can be pretty overwhelming. I would reccomend when you get everything back together to invest in a tuner. Its going to save you lots of headaches. Think about why you gave up last time? You cant get your car to run like stock so its very disappointing when you can't even enjoy your investment. I drive mine daily to work, approx 70 miles each day and average 28-30mpg with no issues. Im not going to say its 100%, I still have small issues here and there, but nothing I can't live with or correct in time.

I think you would be doing yourself a HUGE favor tossing the original turbo. Im not sure why you are set on using an "OEM" type turbo, but I would forget that idea. The OEM turbos are often swapped out for larger displacement units, and for a very good reason. With a goal of 300whp, your going to need something that can flow. The T3/T4 I am using seems to be a popular option with the 57 trim wheel. The lag isn't that bad either. I used to run a GT28 with an Edelbrock kit. The ball bearing turbo certainly beats the journal bearing, but the HP the T3/T4 can support far exceeds what the GT28 could do as well. Personally, I would like to see 350-400whp. It will probably be worthless on the streets, yes... but just something I want to accomplish. We shall see how it goes.

Anyways, keep your head up and do some research. Find people who have experience with this crap and learn for thier mistakes. Might save you some time and some money in the long run. My first turbo experience was a joke. I knew NOTHING about boost. I had problems gallore. I recall bolting up my Greddy kit on my 99 Si and going out and getting my *** handed to me by a stock GSR. I was lost. I learned a lot from it, blew the engine up, put it back together, etc... Luckily I never gave up on boost.

 

The pistons facing towards the front works fine, I think even FJ new build is like that. I put them towards the flywheel to get rid of the noise, at least that’s what I have heard.

I wanted to use the evo turbo because of the spool time and how much it flowed. I also was in the impression that it will be easier to service being an oem turbo. Ultimately how much it flowed didn’t matter since it was bolted to an HF manifold. I started doing more research and those things have a hard time breaking 200 horses regardless of the turbo, especially low comp. I didn’t do enough research on the initial turbo setup, I failed to realize the number 1 thing, that the evo 3 turbo wasn’t oem, it was eBay and have nothing in common.

I made mistakes and I am trying to correct them now. While I cant afford the new shiny named turbo I am no longer running an oem/eBay turbo. The turbonetic turbo is in better shape than the garret that is installed right now. Thing is that it is bigger than the garret and will slow down the spool. The garret is also ball bearing and even with my high oil pressure issues, I want to give it a try.

When I started to put this together I was trying to keep it below 2 thousand. I was hit with bad news when my 110k motor actually had over 200k and was severely damaged. I decided to replace every single part, which I did except for the throttle body. Unfortunately I made some mistake that ended up costing me money and time. With help of a friend we are trying to correct everything now.

I did bring the car to the tuner once but turbo failed, I do want to bring it back once its done but I might do a little bit of street tuning to see how the turbo is holding up.

I put a lot of things aside to build this car, I don’t know how many times I have saved up for a cintiq and have to spend the money on the car again because something went wrong. Getting tired of it and that’s why the head gasket was pulled. To try and eliminate all the half *** work done on it. I do have help to try and finish this, we will continue to fix issues. Next in line is the oil pan, eliminating the scavenge pump and making a half inch return line to let gravity do its thing.

 

Those pistons are going to slap regardless if you haven't dialed in the piston to wall clearance. The stock sized Vitaras aren't made for Honda engines, the piston size isn't exactly the same as a result. So thus, they slap. They are cheap pistons and they do hold up pretty well as people have shown. I decided NOT to use them on this build however so I could get my compression at 9:1 for emissions reasons. If the compression wasn't so stupid low with those Vitaras I would probably have used them again.

I'm not sure why you have that scavenging pump on there. Is it a type of prelube setup you are using? You really don't need these things and IMO your just adding to the list of components that could fail and bring you headache down the road. Im not sure why your turbo was loaded with oil. Could be one of two reasons that come to mind. You either fed the turbo too much oil pressure, or your return line was setup **** poor and it wasn't draining correctly. That is of course assuming your turbo was in good condition.

 

Its not too cold around here so I haven’t heard them slapping around yet. I did know about p2w but I ordered the 75mm to keep the sleeves as strong as possible. I also believe my motor was in good shape, it was sold to me with 110k and ran fine... but it wasn’t. It’s going to slap and maybe even more than normal blow by but lets see how it works out.

On the scavenge pump, well the reason for that is because I couldn’t get my return working properly. The hf manifold+ the adapter causes the turbo to sit below my pan almost. So the return went back up and that was not going to work, I checked the oil flow with the scavenge pump before I bolted everything up. When the turbo started leaking I even removed the return, fired the car and just let it drop to the ground. It still leaked to the exhaust.

You are also correct about to much oil pressure, the car makes a lot, it has tight clearances on the crank and has a high pressure pump. My error on that and because of it my oil pressure is out of control. When I rebuilt the turbo I started it with a .25 restrictor and still leaked. That’s when I started to change my turbo