Did you purchase the whole kit or just the disc? If you purchased just the disc, DEFINITELY resurface that pressure plate you have. Putting a new disc with an old plate could cause major issues if the plate isn't completely flat.

Which specific clutch did you get? The Stage 3 Segmented Kevlar or the Stage 4 six puck?

 

Yea the Action Clutch 2ms is great for boost. You wont be disappointed!

 

Comp clutch or act

 

I am very happy with my CC S5 That I got from Xenocron...

 

umm sorry been gone a while i bought the competion clutch stage 3....tge reason cause my car will be a daily driver and i talked to my tuner and he said for 350 to 400 hp daily driver that i don't race every day i just basically mope around in he said the stage 3 would be what i needed and it would last longer than the stage 4 or stage 5. haven't installed it yet because i haven't had time....when i get it in i will let ya'll know how it holds up if you want......

 

This was probably 3-4 years ago now.

 

This is why doing business on car forums is so miserable. The users are like a herd of gazelles; all it takes is the sound of a twig snapping and the whole herd goes running.

There are a million and one things that affect gear engagement. Don't be so hasty to point fingers at a reputable company that's known for making good products.

 

more than 1 user clearly stated that replacing the CC unit with an old used clutch solved the problem... its not hard to deduce from there that the CC clutch is the issue, im not bad mouthing them, no company is perfect, EVERY company will make a faulty product at least a few times, i have seen just about every cam brake, every clutch company with a failed unit well below its intended HP including a tilton twin disc, **** happens.

 

That is not a logical deduction. Installing a new clutch often creates this problem. I had severe problems with engagement after installing my last new clutch (Clutch Specialties). After bleeding the clutch several times, replacing both the master/slave cylinders, and removing/dissecting the trans 3 separate times, the final solution was simply to adjust the clutch stop to allow more travel, and more importantly, to drain a 1/2qt of oil from the transmission.

The clutch and trans are finicky things. Installing a new clutch with new characteristics (heavier pedal, shorter throw, etc.) can cause a whole host of problems. I'm not going to say I fully understand the solution to what my problem was, but after filling the trans with the helms listed volume of oil, I finally just filled it until it started coming out of the drain hole, which happened to be 1/2qt less than the specified volume. After that, the high RPM engagement and grinding issues were gone. The trans only had 8k miles on it at the time, so all the bearings and gear sets were like new.

Don't be so hasty to blame the clutch.

 

Point taken

 

hey hey i didn't know this would start a problem i just wanted opinions on what clutches you had not which company was the worst or the best..... i chose competion clutch because i wanted there product. It was what i was needing for my setup and when i get it installed i will do a follow up on how it works. Oh and if noone noticed it says on the instruction on the clutch there is a 500 mile break in this doesn't mean when you get it installed to go out and race and raw hide it it means to daily drive it around for 500 miles the make you adjustments again and then your ok to race......but anyways to what i was saying i will do a follow up on the competion cluth stage 3 no its no a 4 puk or 6 it looks like a regular clutch....http://www.competitionclutch.com/pro...dex.php?id=300
thats the web site for information on the clutch and i got the
2300
Stage 3 - Street/Strip Series 2300 Clutch Kit read up on it.........

 

Most people having clutch issues other than slipping are user error. Most of the peopel in that thred having the engaugment issues were user error. for example If you have a hydrolic system ment to push 100lbs 2 inches with an actuator (pedal) travel of 4 inches and then install a new clutch and ask the same system designed to push 100lbs to now push 150lbs with the same actuator travel your mistaken.

its going to take more acutaor travel to build more hydrolic pressure to move the 150lbs 2inches vs 100lbs 2inches. Case in point if the clutch doesnt fully let loose then adjust your clutch pedal accordingly.

 

Welcome to any brand clutch. However, everyone who does installs on CC products seems to love them, pulled from the thread you link to:


One of the shops I tune for installs nothing else, maybe 45-50 CC clutches last year. One problem, CC warrantied it. Another shop I tune for has a car sponsored by CC and the clutch works great... they don't sell many, however, as everything seems to be V8 with a stall.

Bottom line, this is the aftermarket not the OEM. You can't expect everything to drop in like stock w/o adjusting the pedal as Mister Evans points out, and if the manufacturer stands behind and warranties their product that's ALL that matters. There aren't a lot of places that do that anymore.

 

this is completely wrong!! input travel will not change output force it will only change output travel. the only two things that will increase output FORCE is input FORCE and a change in piston size in either the master or slave cylinder or both. this is why it is harder to push certain aftermarket clutches, because they have a higher spring pressure/clamping load, not because your pedal travel is wrong. this is also why tilton offers a different master cylinder with there hydro TB, it gives you a bigger piston to move more fluid with less input force. the reason you sometimes have to adjust pedal travel is because different clutches have different engagement distances due to different pressure plate spring fulcrums and disk thicknesses. case in point, know what your saying if your going to say it. mis education is worse than ignorance.

and to the op, its probably not the best thing to advertise that your going to be "street racing" this new clutch. we get enough second looks from the law just driving normally. not to mention all the other problems you'll cause

 

got the cc clutch and holds up just fine to what ever my sig says 357 hp and some odd tourqe ..... could possibly hold more.... i would reccommend it a little bit of a stiff pedal but other than that its great .....

 

Im running the Actions 2ms w/sprung 6puck, great product and company!!! I to had my PP crack at the bolts next to were the disk makes contact, Sent to back to Action and they sent me a new one the next day for free.

Wouldent mind trying clutchmasters sence they put alot time/$$$ in their import race cars ....