thanks for the help guys
keep it comin

 

ok just to clear things up.

when someone says that we are running to much timing, what do you mean by that?

do you mean.
A. We haven't retarded enough for the boost level.
B. We have retarded it to much for that boost level.

Just a few weeks ago, they had someone at the dyno, with a stock GSR, and tuned it with just the vafc, so there was no timing pulled, and it was at 10lbs.

so. if your saying that his retard is more like .5 per pound, then you would be right, because at 10lbs, not much needs to be pulled, when you can run 10lbs and retard it non, and be safe.

also, with the lower compression, there is more room for arror.

so should i add alittle timing, meaning, take off some of the retarding,
or retard it alittle more?

 

they are saying that you are running too much timing per/lb of boost. Your are running 1 degree more timing at 10psi than a stock ls map in uber 1.6 runs at around 0psi

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they are saying that you are running too much timing per/lb of boost. Your are running 1 degree more timing at 10psi than a stock ls map in uber 1.6 runs at around 0psi</TD></TR></TABLE>

You sure? I thought the stock P75 map ran something like 27* at atmospheric?

Anyways, seems like the timing scalars didn't work right when the adjustment was applied because 26* @ 10psi is certainly not .8*/psi, it's more like .2*/psi. The funny thing is, i'm supprised with that much timing that it isn't making more power, maybe you're on the 'other side' of MBTT?

Did you apply the timing retard before you selected the 3-bar option?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Snail Tuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok just to clear things up.

when someone says that we are running to much timing, what do you mean by that?

do you mean.
A. We haven't retarded enough for the boost level.
B. We have retarded it to much for that boost level.

Just a few weeks ago, they had someone at the dyno, with a stock GSR, and tuned it with just the vafc, so there was no timing pulled, and it was at 10lbs.

so. if your saying that his retard is more like .5 per pound, then you would be right, because at 10lbs, not much needs to be pulled, when you can run 10lbs and retard it non, and be safe.

also, with the lower compression, there is more room for arror.

so should i add alittle timing, meaning, take off some of the retarding,
or retard it alittle more?</TD></TR></TABLE>

IMHO, 26* seems overly aggressive for 10psi, and that's comming from me!
But if it's not knocking....

&lt;-- wonders if the base timing is off a few degrees?

 

I would be really pissed if I had a built block and 250 hp
good luck getting your tune figured out

 

but if you have too much timing and too much fuel the car will run like ****. I would honestly make a new timing map, but that is just me. It definitley got messed up when you tried to scale it. You are effectively running the same timing "almost" as the vafc hack.

 

Agreed...looking at those maps they are a little aggressive for 10lbs ...at a conservative .8degree per PSI it'll be 20 degrees at 10lbs...with step retard it's 23 at 10lbs. What's your compression like? That's really odd that you aren't making the HP you should. At those timing levels you should either be denotating or making great power ! That's what i think at least Anyone agree?

 

Too much timing doesn't always equal power. There are many more factors than just timing. By the looks of the maps, the whole timing maps are advanced.

 

heres some pics of my rotor and plugs... tell me what u guys think?











I Tried as best as I could to show the white film on the terminals of the cap. It's fairly thinks and covers most of the terminals.

The plugs as showed some film on them...

 

I dunno if it's just me, but the ground strap on at least some of those plugs look kinda 'ashy'?

 

those two last pictures of plugs don't look good to me.

 

Here's a pic of the red-done ign-hi table




what do you guys think

 

An H-T member tegon-gsr was running a stock gsr on a greddy kit at 11psi with hondata and made 279 whp.

 

this ign table look beter?

 

yea, I believe it does. Can you post the grid and not the graph. But it looks like you are like 20 degrees or so at 10 lbs. is that correct?

 

that is correct

 

Only way to know for sure will be to stick it on a dyno and see what she does

 

I would double check cam timing.

 

First you need to verify ignition timing w/ a timing light at idle. Set all of your timing values around the idle RPM/load to the same value, say 17 BTDC and then rotate your distributor until the TDC mark on the crank lines up w/ your timing light set to 17 degrees of advance. THen you can go back and put your timing values to where they were at idle.

This is MANDATORY because regardless of what Uberdata says your timing is, if your base timing is off, then what Uberdata says will not be reflective of what your timing really is at the engine. I would be willing to bet that your base timing doesn't match Uberdata. 26 degrees, even w/ .5 degree retard per psi, puts you at 21 degrees of advance at 10 psi, for pump gas this is a little high and is probably causing you to lose power. Adding timing does NOT continue to increase horsepower, there is a max timing value for every engine where power will stop increasing w/ a timing increase, and power will actually decrease. It all depends on the engine. Besides that, check mechanical issues such as compression, cam timing, that you have a good charge on your battery, and check for any serious restrictions in the exhaust. You might also tighten up your plug gap just a bit, although you are just running 10 psi, at least verify that they are at least as tight as .044"

But I'll bet that if you take timing out of it that you'll gain some power.

 

Just another case of too much timing.

 

thank you guys very much for the help. Ben and I are working on the timing situation, I hope to switch to msd ignition, and I hope to be back on the dyno within a month

again, thanks guys

 

hopefully the new maps will fix things up. i also wanna check for boost leaks, and possibly bump the fuel pressure up just alittle.

 

Just an update

Got the new map in and the car feels great. Also installed a new rotor (cap coming tuesday). Man my rotor was fried like blackened chicken mmm mmm

Expect another dyno in a month or so.

thanks again for the help