My boost controller needs a switch or a button to change from low boost to high boost. So I'm asking Honda-Tech what would you want to use to change boost levels and why?

Nick

 

It depends on what you what your high boost and low boost to do. If you're using low for street and high for the track, then a regular switch would be fine.

But if you're using if for something like traction control at the track then using a relay and rpm switch or something like hondata nitrous control would do the trick, switch from low to high at a certain rpm or load.

 

bump

 

I also would use nitrous control, and I would use a high boost setting to avoid overwhelming the tires in the first couple of gears.

 

If I was to do it the cheap and easy way, I'd use the stock wastegate pressure for low and a MBC for high. It'd have a valve (with a cable going into the interior) that closes the line to stock WG when it opens the line for MBC (placed after the MBC - most are bleed-off types), and vice versa. Basicly it'd just bypass the higher setting of the MBC. That'd be more for daily driver boost with the occational 'I might not beat that built M00stang' high boost.

I'm guessing you want it more for traction or what? It really depends on WHY you want it, since there are a few options.

 

buy a 2 stage mbc would be the easy way or buy a hks evc 5. i just press a but on it from low to high

 

trained mice - when you hit 3rd gear the mouse crawls out of the momo box in your engine bay and hits the switch to high boost

 

just curious on something that switches from low boost to high....

when you dyno tune you car for one boost level, say the high boost level, if you turn it down using some kind of valve to bleed off extra boost, isn't your A/F's and other parts of the tune going to be shitty cause your now dumping in way too much fuel for that boost level?

Maybe i'm just missing something here but it seems like you'd get terrible gas mileage and run rich as hell going from high boost to low.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike1114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe i'm just missing something here but it seems like you'd get terrible gas mileage and run rich as hell going from high boost to low.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The ECU calculates fueling based on boost. There is a different fuel value for 10psi than for 7psi, another for 5psi, etc. Exact numbers vary based on EMS

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I was to do it the cheap and easy way, I'd use the stock wastegate pressure for low and a MBC for high. It'd have a valve (with a cable going into the interior) that closes the line to stock WG when it opens the line for MBC (placed after the MBC - most are bleed-off types), and vice versa. Basicly it'd just bypass the higher setting of the MBC. That'd be more for daily driver boost with the occational 'I might not beat that built M00stang' high boost.

I'm guessing you want it more for traction or what? It really depends on WHY you want it, since there are a few options.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is how i will be running, minus the switch...
i will be running a vac line from wg to vac source in order to run .5bar on the street.
then take out that vac line, add the other vac line w/ mbc on it, and run 10psi at the track. cheap way to do it, but you have to go under the hood to switch levels

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ihaterice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">trained mice - when you hit 3rd gear the mouse crawls out of the momo box in your engine bay and hits the switch to high boost</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha brians boost controler is great
you running the momo box too?????

 

WoW this is dumb.

 

ok, new question from me.....

What would be the best route to go for me? I currently have a hondata, I ran it on my turbo gsr setup 10psi daily.

I just changed a whole bunch of stuff like full race mani, fully built block, 3"dp etc......I am interested in something that has a traction control feature like gear dependant boost or rpm dependant (or both).

Since I have to be dynoed again soon, should I ditch the hondata and buy an AEM EMS or is there something I could run with the hondata that has traction control that might be a cheaper solution. I'm not trying to cheap out here, just saving a few bucks if I can. If I have to buy the AEM EMS, I'm all for it.

 

bumpizzle

 

bumparoni

 

my question wasnt very clear,

I've engineered an electronic boost controller, PCBs are going to be printed next week and public sales should be starting at the end of the may. I'm was curious to what everyone would like to use to switch from low boost to high boost.

A button or a switch.

Ive made a descision on a button, based on feedback from other people.

Nick

 

I vote button.

 

button just personal preference because switches are tacky to me