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AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.

 
Old 08-31-2018, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC View Post
5.5's soon enough!!
so if you had to guestimate the cost of your setup right now.. (I know itís painful to mention) but how much would you think you have in it? Just motor setup fuel and suspension.
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Old 08-31-2018, 07:52 AM
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Default Re: AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.

Originally Posted by barrywayne View Post


so if you had to guestimate the cost of your setup right now.. (I know itís painful to mention) but how much would you think you have in it? Just motor setup fuel and suspension.
Well: Let me think

Block Build was around $5500
Head Build: Head cost $400, 4 Piston Outlaw Head with Valve Train was $3600, Cam Setup $2500, Manifold and throttle body $1500, T1 Cam Trigger Setup $500, Head Studs, gaskets, Misc maybe $500
Complete Engine: About $15,000 after parts and labor give or take

Fuel Setup: Weldon 2345A pump $1200, Fuel Tank $250, Fuel Rail $200, 8 ID 2000's $1800, Fuel lines and fittings $400ish, FPR $300.
Fuel Setup: About $4100

Suspension: Kaizenspeed Rear Trailing arms $1700, Strange Engineering Coil and Springs $1200, Kingpin Machine spherical bearing LCA's/Compliance setup $900ish, Makk brace, $300
Suspension Setup: $4100 ish

So I would say for Engine, Fuel and Suspension $23,000 to $25,000. Then again there is a lot more, Transmission, Turbo Setup, Motec Cost LOL. Easily another $30,000 in parts. I would say overall to build my setup you would need about $70,000 to $75,000.

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Old 08-31-2018, 08:18 AM
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Default Re: AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.

Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC View Post
Well: Let me think

Block Build was around $5500
Head Build: Head cost $400, 4 Piston Outlaw Head with Valve Train was $3600, Cam Setup $2500, Manifold and throttle body $1500, T1 Cam Trigger Setup $500, Head Studs, gaskets, Misc maybe $500
Complete Engine: About $15,000 after parts and labor give or take

Fuel Setup: Weldon 2345A pump $1200, Fuel Tank $250, Fuel Rail $200, 8 ID 2000's $1800, Fuel lines and fittings $400ish, FPR $300.
Fuel Setup: About $4100

Suspension: Kaizenspeed Rear Trailing arms $1700, Strange Engineering Coil and Springs $1200, Kingpin Machine spherical bearing LCA's/Compliance setup $900ish, Makk brace, $300
Suspension Setup: $4100 ish

So I would say for Engine, Fuel and Suspension $23,000 to $25,000. Then again there is a lot more, Transmission, Turbo Setup, Motec Cost LOL. Easily another $30,000 in parts. I would say overall to build my setup you would need about $70,000 to $75,000.
jesus I love Hondas and all but I had to talk myself in to dropping the cash Iíve dropped in mine lol I would do that but you know like I do weíll never get everything the we put in back.
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Old 08-31-2018, 10:15 AM
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Default Re: AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.

Originally Posted by barrywayne View Post


jesus I love Hondas and all but I had to talk myself in to dropping the cash Iíve dropped in mine lol I would do that but you know like I do weíll never get everything the we put in back.
I've been screwing with Honda's since I first bought my first CRX back in 98. To me, I'm not worried about getting anything back out of my car because I don't need to sell it. I've had this particular car for 10 years and it's not a DD whatsoever so it can be down for a year no problem.

It also depends on what your goals and plans are, most people build 12, 11 and 10 second cars and get bored thinking they can build some monster domestic and somehow run 7's for nothing. Not going to happen unless they put up the money to do so. For me it's all about going fast which is why if I need to pony up for a $7500 gear set I do, don't want to sound clichť but it's in my blood and when you're really into it the money you spend doesn't necessarily matter. Now if you are broke and are missing mortgage payments then yeah be careful LOL.

Long story short, going fast isn't cheap and if you're cheap stick to the budget builds and have fun.
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Old 09-03-2018, 11:27 AM
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Day two of Tig Welding, I spent day 1 playing with a bunch of different settings and about two hours of welding line after line. I have been watching hours of videos and after day 1 found out a couple things I was doing wrong so today I am trying a couple different things and it is working out pretty well. Couple things I really need: A welding bench and chair and welding cart because I have been welding sitting on the ground with no table but I was excited and wanted to get going.

I am planning on checking out harbor freight to see what I can find so I can at least have a work bench to sit on but thus far am pretty happy with day 2 results.



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Old 09-03-2018, 11:44 AM
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Hey thatís great for your second day! Keep practicing and youíll do nothing but get better every time. From that pic the weld looks way too cold at the beginning. What really helped me with aluminum starts was waiting for a shiny puddle to form (you should see a reflection in it) before you start adding filler rod to it. You will notice that aluminum needs a lot more heat at the beginning of the weld and youíll have to back off the longer the weld is especially if you are nearing an edge because of the way heat builds up with aluminum. I actually like to start really slow with aluminum at the start of the weld I usually fire up an ark and just watch the cleaning action happen for a few seconds then up the amperage until a shiny puddle forms, then start stacking dimes lol. Keep practicing man youíre off to a great start!
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Old 09-03-2018, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by boosted94gsr View Post
Hey thatís great for your second day! Keep practicing and youíll do nothing but get better every time. From that pic the weld looks way too cold at the beginning. What really helped me with aluminum starts was waiting for a shiny puddle to form (you should see a reflection in it) before you start adding filler rod to it. You will notice that aluminum needs a lot more heat at the beginning of the weld and youíll have to back off the longer the weld is especially if you are nearing an edge because of the way heat builds up with aluminum. I actually like to start really slow with aluminum at the start of the weld I usually fire up an ark and just watch the cleaning action happen for a few seconds then up the amperage until a shiny puddle forms, then start stacking dimes lol. Keep practicing man youíre off to a great start!
Thanks man!! I'm still trying to figure out that first puddle, I have it set to ramp 50 amps at the start and I may try raising the amps on the start up and wait a few seconds to see the cleaning action then the little puddle start forming before adding filler rod. Yesterday was all about trying different settings etc, which was a pain in the *** especially trying to start out with Pulse, then mix. Right now I have pulse and mix shut off, plus I didn't realize I should have the gas set a certain way depending on the metal and thickness so I had it wide open.

The angle of the torch yesterday was way off as well so right now I am trying around 15% angle which has really helped. I have also heard a lot of people using gas lenses which my kit did not come with so I may get some gas lenses to try out as well.

I'm just going to keep on practicing over and over LOL.
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Old 09-03-2018, 12:44 PM
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Default Re: AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.

Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC View Post
Well: Let me think

Block Build was around $5500
Head Build: Head cost $400, 4 Piston Outlaw Head with Valve Train was $3600, Cam Setup $2500, Manifold and throttle body $1500, T1 Cam Trigger Setup $500, Head Studs, gaskets, Misc maybe $500
Complete Engine: About $15,000 after parts and labor give or take

Fuel Setup: Weldon 2345A pump $1200, Fuel Tank $250, Fuel Rail $200, 8 ID 2000's $1800, Fuel lines and fittings $400ish, FPR $300.
Fuel Setup: About $4100

Suspension: Kaizenspeed Rear Trailing arms $1700, Strange Engineering Coil and Springs $1200, Kingpin Machine spherical bearing LCA's/Compliance setup $900ish, Makk brace, $300
Suspension Setup: $4100 ish

So I would say for Engine, Fuel and Suspension $23,000 to $25,000. Then again there is a lot more, Transmission, Turbo Setup, Motec Cost LOL. Easily another $30,000 in parts. I would say overall to build my setup you would need about $70,000 to $75,000.
I've got mixed feelings about that amount of money. First reaction is that's crazy, lol, but then it makes me feel better about what I've got into my car.
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Old 09-03-2018, 02:23 PM
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Default Re: AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.

Definitely pick up a stubby gas lenses kit from the welding tips and tricks guy, thats where I got mine and have been really happy with the quality. I actually never even used the standard gas kit that came with my welder, I had the gas lenses kit from the get go. I had just read too many good reviews about them so I decided to just start with the right stuff from the beginning. I actually never run any pulse settings or anything like that, I much prefer to just control the amperage with the foot pedal. Iíd recommend starting out the same and practice using the pedal to control the amperage, and really watch what the weld puddle is doing and adjust the amperage based on that. Really a huge part is have the correct amount of heat in the weld. Once you figure out what to look for it makes welding almost anything much easier.
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Old 09-03-2018, 04:36 PM
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Got a new welder cart and a few other supplies I needed to get my stuff off the ground. Going to order a welding table, some additional tungstens, gas lenses and maybe a tungsten grinder but we will see.



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Old 09-03-2018, 05:04 PM
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I just put my stuff together today myself, I had just took these photos a few hours ago. Unfortunately before I get to start on my on stuff, I am having to weld together a 3 story tall projection screen first. Lol.


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Old 09-04-2018, 06:06 AM
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Ah man that's cool, yeah I was looking online for a cart and I found something similar on the Eastwood site but it was about $179 dollars and $69 dollars for shipping so I was like I wonder what Harbor Freight had so I made my way over there and they had that table for $164 and the dude gave me an extra $15 dollars off and obviously no shipping so I got it.

Seems pretty heavy duty and it's nice to have the drawers so it was a pretty good buy.
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Old 09-04-2018, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by scottcraft View Post
I've got mixed feelings about that amount of money. First reaction is that's crazy, lol, but then it makes me feel better about what I've got into my car.
Yeah, I guess it really depends on what you're doing with the car, this car for me is 100% drag car that only goes to events and what I've spent is what it takes it you want a low 8 second car that won't blow up after 1 or 2 passes.

If you ever watch Street Outlaws those guys spend $250 to 350k on their cars to run low 6's and the maintenance is crazy. Those guys probably go through a motor or two each season and are fixing a ton of things on those cars every event they go to. I mean I've heard that some of those motors are between 50 and 100k so like you I don't feel bad about what I spent LOL.

For me I am pretty happy with a low 8 second car and one day will probably crack a 7 only if I get the car to an AWD setup which is the plan but I have to be patient and wait for all the right parts.

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Old 09-04-2018, 07:07 AM
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I think allot of it just really depends on where your at in life too. When I was younger everything I did was ultra budget but I usually made it work fairly well. I was happy with a 11 second ls turbo hatch because back then 11's around my neck of the woods was fast and most of the built cars weren't even running as fast as I was on some shitty stock 300k motor. Now that I'm older and a little more financially setup I don't mind tearing my car down and trying to make sure I got the **** to make the car do what it will need to reliably. Like you said earlier if your missing your mortgage or rent to build a car you should rethink things lol.
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Old 09-04-2018, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC View Post
Yeah, I guess it really depends on what you're doing with the car, this car for me is 100% drag car that only goes to events and what I've spent is what it takes it you want a low 8 second car that won't blow up after 1 or 2 passes.

If you ever watch Street Outlaws those guys spend $250 to 350k on their cars to run low 6's and the maintenance is crazy. Those guys probably go through a motor or two each season and are fixing a ton of things on those cars every event they go to. I mean I've heard that some of those motors are between 50 and 100k so like you I don't feel bad about what I spent LOL.

For me I am pretty happy with a low 8 second car and one day will probably crack a 7 only if I get the car to an AWD setup which is the plan but I have to be patient and wait for all the right parts.
Honda's are relatively inexpensive, but I found out when I rebuilt my engine and transmission that it it doesn't take long to add up if you're doing it right. The money you have in your car isn't that surprising considering the power it makes. I work with a guy that's big into autocross and he's got a k swapped mr2 that he is adding a supercharger and an aftermarket transmission to and he's got quite a bit tied up in it.
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by K7-1Ktrevor View Post
I think allot of it just really depends on where your at in life too. When I was younger everything I did was ultra budget but I usually made it work fairly well. I was happy with a 11 second ls turbo hatch because back then 11's around my neck of the woods was fast and most of the built cars weren't even running as fast as I was on some shitty stock 300k motor. Now that I'm older and a little more financially setup I don't mind tearing my car down and trying to make sure I got the **** to make the car do what it will need to reliably. Like you said earlier if your missing your mortgage or rent to build a car you should rethink things lol.
I agree with that, when I was younger I basically got what I could afford as far as parts, I mean when I was 18 I wasn't out purchasing Motec or PPG gearsets. As I got older and wiser I realized trying to go fast and reliability wasn't the best mix. Back in the day when my Honda was my only car it sucked because as everyone knows working on these cars things happen, you go to the track and break something but need to go to work the next day you're screwed and are asking for rides.

Eventually as I got older and made more money I bought a DD that I was going to leave 100% stock and 1 car I played with. Ever since then that is what I've done, I mean my DD for the past 4 years has been my Dodge Truck before that I had my Acura TSX. For me I could care less about power on the street, racing around or any of that.

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Old 09-04-2018, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by scottcraft View Post
Honda's are relatively inexpensive, but I found out when I rebuilt my engine and transmission that it it doesn't take long to add up if you're doing it right. The money you have in your car isn't that surprising considering the power it makes. I work with a guy that's big into autocross and he's got a k swapped mr2 that he is adding a supercharger and an aftermarket transmission to and he's got quite a bit tied up in it.
Yeah Honda's aren't an expensive platform to start, I bought this particular Honda in 2008 for $3000 bucks. As for a good motor build you can do it for cheaper but still do good things with it. I mean my previous block I had maybe $3500 in total and that was a GE sleeved, o'ringed, Turbo Tuff rod and CP pistons but handled 1000whp. I've seen guy use stock port Honda heads but with good valvetrains in the 9's no problem.

Where it gets expensive is all the little things, I mean to get a 7.50 certified 25.5 cage costs around 7000-10000 dollars alone. All the little things that most don't think all too much about is where so much cash gets involved. I mean if I wanted to build a mid 10 to low 10 second car you could do it for less than 10K especially if you aren't planning on racing it at a track because then you don't need a cage. I mean a good GSR transmission will typically hold together with 600whp or less so you don't even really need to worry about that. I mean it's all about goals and such but I mean you can make a pretty fast Honda on a budget.
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Old 09-04-2018, 08:50 AM
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Default Re: AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.

I guess I always assumed that once you get to this level, most of the parts would be free or paid for by sponsorships, or it is built collectively by a team that is basically run as a business so there isn't much out of pocket from the individual owner of the car.

It is indeed very interesting to see all that goes into it, thanks for sharing the build breakdown and costs with us.
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Old 09-04-2018, 09:07 AM
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Having a reliable daily is the only way to go. I drive a 04 Escalade that I picked up for 3500 bucks and it's awesome for what I need it for. It's nice too the older I get the quicker **** seems to depreciate, when I was in high school those Escalades were the **** and only ballers had them, now they can be found cheaper then most tahoes of the same year.
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Old 09-04-2018, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 2x0 View Post
I guess I always assumed that once you get to this level, most of the parts would be free or paid for by sponsorships, or it is built collectively by a team that is basically run as a business so there isn't much out of pocket from the individual owner of the car.

It is indeed very interesting to see all that goes into it, thanks for sharing the build breakdown and costs with us.
You would basically be correct, a lot of the fastest Hondas in the country are shopped owned cars built to basically showcase their shop to get customers. I am sure a lot of these shops get discounted parts, have sponsors and help from teams of people. Every once in a while you have guys like me that am not a shop owner, I have no sponsorships and no one who pays for my car but me. The only thing I do not pay for is tuning which is done by my buddy and owner of Locash CNC. Now he is a dealer for some different parts and I will buy parts at his cost but honestly you don't save much. I mean you may be a part for $1400 instead of $1600 you know, nothing too big. However when my buddy needs things painted or detailed I basically return the favor and do those things for nothing.

The only other recent deal I got was from Comp Turbo who rebuilt my turbo which saved me around $500 bucks, but other than that when I go out to the track it's just me and my son working on my car and Joe checking my logs and making adjustments on the tune each pass. Other than that I have paid for everything on my car.

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Old 09-04-2018, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC View Post
Yeah Honda's aren't an expensive platform to start, I bought this particular Honda in 2008 for $3000 bucks. As for a good motor build you can do it for cheaper but still do good things with it. I mean my previous block I had maybe $3500 in total and that was a GE sleeved, o'ringed, Turbo Tuff rod and CP pistons but handled 1000whp. I've seen guy use stock port Honda heads but with good valvetrains in the 9's no problem.

Where it gets expensive is all the little things, I mean to get a 7.50 certified 25.5 cage costs around 7000-10000 dollars alone. All the little things that most don't think all too much about is where so much cash gets involved. I mean if I wanted to build a mid 10 to low 10 second car you could do it for less than 10K especially if you aren't planning on racing it at a track because then you don't need a cage. I mean a good GSR transmission will typically hold together with 600whp or less so you don't even really need to worry about that. I mean it's all about goals and such but I mean you can make a pretty fast Honda on a budget.
You nailed it when you said the little things. When I built mine I had a general idea how much cams, intake and stuff would cost, but I failed to consider gaskets, belts, hoses and stuff that adds up. When I build my next block I'll know what to expect and I think I can build a better motor for similar money to what I did this one.
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Old 09-04-2018, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by scottcraft View Post
You nailed it when you said the little things. When I built mine I had a general idea how much cams, intake and stuff would cost, but I failed to consider gaskets, belts, hoses and stuff that adds up. When I build my next block I'll know what to expect and I think I can build a better motor for similar money to what I did this one.
Exactly and even other things, for example I'm not trying to drive my car to the track so instead of renting a trailer I bought a brand new trailer.

Carson Trailer $3000.
Dodge truck basically even swap. Sold my TSX and bought my father in laws Dodge
Race ramps $300,
wench $100
trailer brake setup $150
portable generator $500
Fans $250
Tent for the track $169
battery charger for the 16v battery $250.
Compressor $600
Tool Box $500
Welder $1500 with everything
Tools probably 5k
Heck I just had to shell out $240 dollars to renew my NHRA license which I have to do every two years
Tomorrow I have an appt. for my Cage Certification which is $195
helmet, jacket, pants, shoes, gloves, neck brace all have to be NRHA approved that was easily $700 bucks
Window Net, Belts you have to replace every two years $300, scatter shield

I mean the list goes on and on LOL. So when you are truly building a competitive car man does it cost a lot hahahaha.
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Old 09-04-2018, 02:15 PM
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Default Re: AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.

Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC View Post
Exactly and even other things, for example I'm not trying to drive my car to the track so instead of renting a trailer I bought a brand new trailer.

Carson Trailer $3000.
Dodge truck basically even swap. Sold my TSX and bought my father in laws Dodge
Race ramps $300,
wench $100
trailer brake setup $150
portable generator $500
Fans $250
Tent for the track $169
battery charger for the 16v battery $250.
Compressor $600
Tool Box $500
Welder $1500 with everything
Tools probably 5k
Heck I just had to shell out $240 dollars to renew my NHRA license which I have to do every two years
Tomorrow I have an appt. for my Cage Certification which is $195
helmet, jacket, pants, shoes, gloves, neck brace all have to be NRHA approved that was easily $700 bucks
Window Net, Belts you have to replace every two years $300, scatter shield

I mean the list goes on and on LOL. So when you are truly building a competitive car man does it cost a lot hahahaha.
this is the main reason Iím going to just build mine as a low 10-high 9 sec car. Itís the million small things that go along with going faster that I canít see doing for what I would get in return. I live in a area that donít have anything import race related, I would have to drive 4-8 hours just for the closest event , and we may or may not get one that close, the average distance would be a 13-17 hour drive. Then if I feel like it I can alway build something stronger, I have a live aboard cruiser that eats up a ton of my weekend budgets. Lol
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Old 09-04-2018, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC View Post
Exactly and even other things, for example I'm not trying to drive my car to the track so instead of renting a trailer I bought a brand new trailer.

Carson Trailer $3000.
Dodge truck basically even swap. Sold my TSX and bought my father in laws Dodge
Race ramps $300,
wench $100
trailer brake setup $150
portable generator $500
Fans $250
Tent for the track $169
battery charger for the 16v battery $250.
Compressor $600
Tool Box $500
Welder $1500 with everything
Tools probably 5k
Heck I just had to shell out $240 dollars to renew my NHRA license which I have to do every two years
Tomorrow I have an appt. for my Cage Certification which is $195
helmet, jacket, pants, shoes, gloves, neck brace all have to be NRHA approved that was easily $700 bucks
Window Net, Belts you have to replace every two years $300, scatter shield

I mean the list goes on and on LOL. So when you are truly building a competitive car man does it cost a lot hahahaha.
Bass fishing is huge around here and I only thought that was expensive!!! But, it's all in what you enjoy. As long as you don't put your family in a bind have at it is how I view things. I appreciate your sharing some of the costs, it definitely adds a new perspective to things.
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Old 09-04-2018, 03:33 PM
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2x0
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Default Re: AZ_CIVIC'S Build, Testing Things, ETC.

Originally Posted by turboLScrx View Post


this is the main reason Iím going to just build mine as a low 10-high 9 sec car. Itís the million small things that go along with going faster that I canít see doing for what I would get in return. I live in a area that donít have anything import race related, I would have to drive 4-8 hours just for the closest event , and we may or may not get one that close, the average distance would be a 13-17 hour drive. Then if I feel like it I can alway build something stronger, I have a live aboard cruiser that eats up a ton of my weekend budgets. Lol
Yeah if youíre aiming for 7ís or even 8ís you might as well live like Cleetus and just travel around the country racing full time haha
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