The new GE HG are not the same like in the past. They have a new design between the cylinders like JE or Fel Pro. If u buy an OEM HG at ur Honda Dealer u get the good old one Design. U Never seen that before? GE says NOW with the new ADVANCED SEAL DESIGN

 

I didn’t buy the GE Advanced Seal, I bought the actual OEM GE Honda head gasket. You can still find some sellers who stock the old style gaskets.

 

That’s an interesting radiator setup. Do you know how much the system weighs wet compared to stock? Seems like the coolant will have a lot of time to cool down in the piping as well while circulating to/from the radiator.

 

Well the extra lines hold about an extra gallon plus of water so I would say an extra 8 pounds there and the extra lines and aluminum tube maybe 10, I would estimate the weight to be 15 to 18 pounds heavy.

Not sure if the radiator I have now is lighter or not but I hope the extra water, circulation keeps things cool. Another guy who comes up from California and does events out here sometimes says his rear setup doesn't get hotter than 180.

 

Some crazy stuff you got going there AZ , it’s amazing the stuff your doing!

 

This is one hell of a car you have put together, and running with the likes of Speedfactory. My hat is off to you sir. I love where you are going with this radiator setup. I think I'm about due to a new radiator anyways as I start to overheat on the freeway in mid summer. Mid summer here is brutal as you know, so any help in the cooling department is much appreciated. Looks like you've got some mad skills in the body and paint department too I see. My car just fell off my jack stands (don't ask me how, I could kick myself ) and I ended up crushing a fender and a C-West side skirt. Maybe you can give me some pointers on fixing fiberglass. Anyways, keep up the good work and hope to see you out there some time. Subscribed!!

 

Thanks man!!! So as far as radiator setup I had my same Koyo Radiator, Maradyne fan with fan shroud and it did me good for 15 years. During the summers I never went above 201 daily driving the car and freeways would always be around 193 to 198ish. I would suggest going with a Koyo Radiator and if you do I can hook you up with the fan and shroud off my radiator on the house, hell you can have the somewhat little fancy hoses if you want as well.

As for the fiberglass work, I have got pretty good. I haven't posed much of what I did to my bumper recently or the glass work I did for Locash and his Frank Front end. May post up some pics and I can see what you have going on but I have fixed some truly trashed fiberglass parts.

Really all you need is fiber glass Mat, resin and fiberglass filler for the body work. I always finish off with a bondo. You can get really creative with some of the parts, I will post some stuff up of what I've done recently.

 

I'd love to take you up on that offer and I appreciate that. I actually need to replace my rad support as I used to jack the front end up from it a long time ago and it has bent the **** out of it. Nothing lines up correctly anymore as you can imagine and I've even had to notch it at the top for the radiator I have now. So sticking a nice new radiator in it right now isn't a great idea. That's actually my next big upgrade, replacing the rad support, doing the 99-00 facelift, and doing a little shaving of the engine bay. The whole ride is do for paint and body work. 23 years has taken its tole on, so it's time. Really looking at the M&M Honda wide body kit too for a little wider tire patch on all four corners.

 

So I've been playing around with a few things mostly paint and bodywork bits and pieces. So I've wanted to try out doing a flake paint job but never really wanted to do the car in a flake but maybe do some parts.

With the motor out and having some parts I wanted to update I decided I wanted to do a flake paint job on some parts. I decided to do my fuel cell, intake pipe, oil box and new overflow catch can. I also did an epoxy satin black on the intercooler but the process is pretty intense for the flake work. After prep work was done I basically laid down the factory flamenco black pearl for the base, 3 coats of clear with with a holographic black flake, followed by 3 additional coats of clear to bury the flake. I then waited a week for it clear to shrink around the flake and then did a 1000 grit wetsand to flatten the flake and clear, from there I laid down a final 3 coats of clear before 1000, 2000 and 3000 grit wetsand and buff.

The parts look like glass and in the sun has a cool rainbow flake look which is pretty freaking cool.




















Even in the dark garage it looks pretty cool, in the sun it's amazing.

 

looks very clean! update or infos about the engine??

 

My engine builder has me waiting in line LOL. I’m hoping he gets to it soon though, these are the reasons I keep learning how to do more and more.

I mean I prefer having a professional builder with all the equipment work on my motor especially with the amount of money I have in parts but it does get a bit irritating when you have to wait months.

 

It looks really good AZ. I agree with you...don't know if I'd want the entire car painted like that, but little accents definitely set it off. I'm super jealous of your paint/body skills. I want to have my car's body reworked and have it repainted but it's $ I could be spending to go faster, lol.

 

oh man thats frustating :/ u should build ur own engine! buy a 2nd b18c1 and slap some pistons and rods / valvetrain....

 

Your paint work looks really good.

 

Thanks man!! Once you get the car going fast then you can focus on the paint!!

 

Thanks man!!

 

I’ve thought of buying another motor and using that to start playing with and learning. For my motor setup I’m not sure though, it’s a 6k block and a 6k head package. I wouldn’t want to mess something up and lose a motor.

 

So I also did some body work on the front bumper, the nice shiny bumper was before. You can see the turbo cut out only had about a half inch before the intercooler opening but I added about 6 inches to that and reglassed that section that way now you will only see the intercooler. On the other side of the I also opened it up about 6 inches to allow more air flow to the intercooler. I had to reglass that area and box everything in. Since I no longer have a radiator upfront I glassed the holes up top closed.

 

Those paint and bodywork skills are just...

Looks fantastic, sir!!

 

Thanks brother!!!

 

So onto another project that I didn’t really want to do but basically had to do. I’ve been running DSS 5.9 level axles, the 5.9 intermediate shaft and Mfactory Diff. Well after about 5 passes it twisted the splines on the intermediate shaft. So I decided to bite the bullet and get the DSS Pro Level axles, intermediate shaft and DSS Pro Level Diff.


So got the Diff and ordered some ITR diff bearings and new ring gear bolts. Opened the trans and removed and inspected the PPG gears and everything still looks good. Pulled the Mfactory Diff and removed the ring gear and speedo gear. Pressed the bearings speedo gear and new bearings and installed the ring gear.

Now it was time to clearance everything but the Diff was not going in, I kept double checking everything but then realized the Diff diameter was a little bigger then the Mfactory so we sprayed a blue paint to see where it was rubbing. Found out real quick what it was rubbing on so I got the die grinder and shaved the area down. After a bit of grinding I got the Diff to glide on in. Now it was time to actually clearance it, took a few times and a couple shims but everything was good to go. Reassembled everything and got the trans back together, so I’m hoping this takes care of axles issue. It took me a solid 5 hours getting this done mainly because of the billet case needing to be massaged LOL.

 

Hell yeah. So it bigger splines and a stronger design? What does the half shaft look like, and what does the end of the axles that go into the trans / half shaft look like? That's crazy you twisted the splines.

 

You look like you're running tool coolant lol.

 

Yeah the Pro Level kit uses a Porsche Style 108mm inner CV joint and bolt on axle flanges. The Pro Level axles replaces the standard 27 spline differential with a 40% larger 28 spline plug and intermediate bar. So I shouldn't have any issues, they say it's good for 1000whp and up and for almost 4k for the axles, intermediate bar and LSD it better hold up LOL.


Yeah the good old alien blood LOL.

 

We ran tool coolant in the differential of a land speed car because it had the same lubrication and viscosity of the expensive biodegradable gear lubes. The owner was a genius at hacking the rulebook lol.