boostismycrack

My setup is as follows:
Precision 6oo hp intercooler
precision gt35e
log style manifold
3" downpipe w/e-cutout
precision 780ccs
hondata s100b
rs machine sleeves
84mm bore
je slugs
eagle rods
jg intake & tb
custom piping
big c&r radiator/fan
walboro 255
sx fpr
flamenco-t lines
arp studs
cometic hg
hondata img
msd 6a
ngk 7s

Here's my problem. The factory temp guage will creep to 3/4 it seems only while I am cruising for a while on the highway 30 mins or so. My autometer temp guage will read just past the 210 215 ish mark, the temp on hondata I have never seen go past 203. It does not overheat at idle, fan is kicking on and off. I have bled the system over and over, no air bubbles. The motor is fresh, still breaking in, brand new honda water pump. I have not made any boost on this motor yet, but have tuned for idle and driveability. Solid a/f of 14:1 while cruising again NO BOOST yet. EGTs are 1150 while cruising. This is a 2.0L gsr motor w/ a/c in an eg hatch. Am I worried for nothing? Does this seem normal to everyone? I am concerned that temps will creep higher on a hotter day when I am boosting the **** out of it. I really think the this intercooler is blocking too much air flow to my radiator. O yeah, I also replaced my thermostat w/ a new HONDA thermostat, and yes the fan is blowing in the right direction. I feel like I have covered everything, what do you guys think? Any input welcome and apprieciated!

boostismycrack

anyone?

LBR92DA-T

why dont you hook up your fan to a constant power and switch it.. so whenever you turn on your car turn on the switch... or just run it to an acc power so it will start when you start your car

danl

You running the stock 1/2 radiator on a 2.0L motor? I have a full radiator in my 2.0L eclipse and the precision small core and I overheat. Step up to the plate with a better radiator...

Boostage

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LBR92DA-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why dont you hook up your fan to a constant power and switch it.. so whenever you turn on your car turn on the switch... or just run it to an acc power so it will start when you start your car</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im sure he is looking for another answer other than that. he shouldnt have to do that. his egt's are high for a car not seeing boost. and just crusing for half hour his temps shouldnt climb like that.

The fact that while moving on the highway the temps climb I would bet that the radiator isnt getting flow. because even if you had no fan. temps should be normal while moving consistently on the highway

lsvtecvx

ya but Eclipse's use a cast iron block which cant get rid of heat like Honda aluminum blocks.
The radiator isnt the problem.

kobi2002

maybe you need to change your rad. it is possible that it is clogged in some way.

I had the same prob when I went boost and it would overheat nomatter what i do. So i would look into that becaus eit sounds like your not getting flow somewere

seen4ever

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im sure he is looking for another answer other than that. he shouldnt have to do that. his egt's are high for a car not seeing boost. and just crusing for half hour his temps shouldnt climb like that.

The fact that while moving on the highway the temps climb I would bet that the radiator isnt getting flow. because even if you had no fan. temps should be normal while moving consistently on the highway</TD></TR></TABLE>

my egts sit around 1300-1400 during cruising on the highway with an airfuel between 14-15:1. those EGTs are kind of low in my opinion. My temp is fine on my car, i sit at 193-195 degrees on 87degree days, although I have a fluidyne and a fal fan, but my greddy type 24 intercooler is just as big. I just picked up a 160 degree thermostat from importparts.com, I'm hopeing to drop my temps down to the 180 degree mark.

boostismycrack

Thats about what my temps read on the hondata, but the rising factorty guage is what worries me.

boostismycrack

The radiator is a brand new c&r

boostismycrack

I agree with you and that is what I'm thinking, my friend in houston has a very similar setup, with the same intercooler as me, and his **** does the same thing. Since I am not boosting yet, I think I am going to replace the intercooler with a straight pipe (temporarily) to see if the problem goes away. I'm betting it will and that this intercooler is too restrictive. Our other shop car runs a rev hard fmic with a fluidyne and has no problems, no a/c though.

xci_ed6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecvx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya but Eclipse's use a cast iron block which cant get rid of heat like Honda aluminum blocks.
The radiator isnt the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

your measuring the tempurature of the coolant, not the block.

HIgh EGT's, check your timing, maybe retarded too far.

If it is still getting hot, it is the radiator.

-Dustin

boostismycrack

I don't think 1150 is too high for cruising for 30 mins, this is degrees F on an autometer guage, not degrees C on a greddy, sorry I should have specified. Tis would be about 600 degress for you greddy guage people.

danl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lsvtecvx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ya but Eclipse's use a cast iron block which cant get rid of heat like Honda aluminum blocks.
The radiator isnt the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The radiator is the solution to the problem. I'd probably be able to get away with it if I didn't run the AC condensor (same as the origional poster). The cylinder head dissipates a LOT of heat as well, don't forget that. Thats why V8 guys can run so much more compression and make so much more power with alumium heads.

At any rate the AC condensor absoutley kills you. Also the bar and fin style intercoolers seem to restrict more airflow to everything behind it. My friend has a garret bar and fin core as I do and we both overheat on stock radiators. However my friend with a turbo honda and another with a turbo dsm both run non bar and fin style cores and neither suffer from overheating on the stock radiators.

LBR92DA-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Boostage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im sure he is looking for another answer other than that. he shouldnt have to do that. his egt's are high for a car not seeing boost. and just crusing for half hour his temps shouldnt climb like that.

The fact that while moving on the highway the temps climb I would bet that the radiator isnt getting flow. because even if you had no fan. temps should be normal while moving consistently on the highway</TD></TR></TABLE>

i know he shouldnt have to but its still a thought... all im saying is that would work when the intercooler is being restrictive, it'll be getting air from the fan and some slightly from driving... being that its a bar and plate style not the tube and fin...

turbohondask

I have the same problem but with a different intercooler, that is 3 inch thick. I am changing the raiditor and thermosat. Hopefully it works

xci_ed6

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At any rate the AC condensor absoutley kills you. Also the bar and fin style intercoolers seem to restrict more airflow to everything behind it. My friend has a garret bar and fin core as I do and we both overheat on stock radiators. However my friend with a turbo honda and another with a turbo dsm both run non bar and fin style cores and neither suffer from overheating on the stock radiators.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are disipating heat from the head to the coolant. not from the head to atmosphere.

danl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

They are disipating heat from the head to the coolant. not from the head to atmosphere.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but the head does a better job of transfering the heat to the water jackets.....

boostismycrack

I cut my bumper support to allow more flow to the radiator, and added a pusher fan in front of the radiator, this seems to have worked for now.

Sunrise City Rider

Wire the A/C Condensor fan to turn on with the Radiator Cooling Fan...I just finished up a 90 Celica Alltrac with a new Front Mount Intercooler and the water temperature was up around 3/4 high and after I spliced in the A/C fan, I got it down to below halfway...

boostismycrack

are the radiator and condensor on differnt sides like a civic or back to back like an integra? Mine is a civic with half size radiator, so I don't think that would do any good in my application.

VTEC-dood

I have the same intercooler and ran into the same thing when we were tuing partial throttle i could watch the temp gauge creep up to just under half way. Also when cruising for like 30-45 mins my temo gauge went up to half i slowed down and it went back down, this all happened with a stock radiator w/pusher fan i got at pep-bys for 35 bux. I upgraded to a fluidyne w/ my pep-boys universal pusher/puller fan then i put this studd from advanced auto in for coolant i cant remember the name of it but it comes in a metal can like paint thiner does and it says its suppose to lower your coolant temp 30 degrees topped off w/ coolant. I havent had any movement on my temp gauge thus far. I tried the thermostat it dont work cuz you gotta change the fan switch sensor also so your fan kicks on quicker and the only one i know of is the 160 from spoon and thats too low of a temp. Good luck

M.A.R.C.

hrm i'm starting to think THAT is causing my overheating problem as well. I have the same i/c and the same problem pretty much. i'm going to try a new t-stat today and a radiator flush (im thinking the bar's leak probably is clogging the radiator a lil as well).

MachAF

Your EGT's are fine. whoever said they were high doesn't know what they are talking about.

C&R radiators are very nice. It should be doing the job.

could be the thermostat stuck open, which would not allow the coolant time to cool in the radiator.

remove your intercooler see if they helps any.

Also someone talked about intercoolers.. There are bar/plate and tube/fin. Tube and fin are less restrictive but do not cool as well as bar/plate.

boostismycrack

yeah, this intercooler is very restrictive to the radiator on an eg, at least on an ek you have an upper vent to help cool the radiator. I ended up cutting out the middle section of my bumper support to allow air to pass over the top of my intercooler and into the radiator. This seems to have solved this problem for now. Thanks for everyones input, hope this thread helps others solve it too.