Nope not at all...

 

but if this milky stuff is from condensation , y are they all loosing coolant ??? still dos not add up to me yet

 

OK, I had a little more time and read every single post. Sorry I didn't do that before posting the first time!

Every single motor I have ever built for someone that had GE sleeves (the old godzilla style when they used to use RTV sealant) had the same issues with losing coolant or overheating.
Most of the motors were step decked, which I do not recommend by any means, but after every single one of them was taken apart I found that they had dropped sleeves. The worst having a .007" drop below the block deck height. After all of them were milled using a fly cutter and taking pictures and measurements after every .001" cut you could actually see the problem. Here is a high res pic for you to see for yourself, notice the cutter removing aluminum, but no cylinder material, and this was a stepped deck block when it came back from GE! http://www.attituderacing.com/Milled%20deck.jpg

One more thing to ponder, if the head gasket doesn't get enough crush due to the stepped deck, the coolant can get over to the oil drain back holes.

Fact is your losing coolant right? Well if its not a blown head gasket and its not smoking (burning it) then it has to be getting into the oil somehow if your getting the milky white oil. Since your valve cover has the milky oil in it there is no possible way that its not like that in your oil pan too! Just the oil that's splashed all over the bottom side of the valve cover would carry that milky oil back into the oil drain holes and into the pan even if it was a condensation issue which I find almost impossible!
BTW, I have the rest of the pics of the dropped sleeves between cuts on the mill if you would like to see them too.

First I was told by GE that their sleeves didn't drop (even though I had proof they did), then they come up with a new sleeve and process not to mention what looks like JB weld to help hold them in place rather than the orange RTV that they used to use. I have not assembled seen any issues with their new sleeve and process so far, but then again, I have only built one motor with those sleeves so far.

Bottom line here is that it is actually possible to have oil and water mix especially with stepped decks!

 

I had this exact looking crap happen to me under 40 miles. I had all the parts taken out and in to be checked. It turned out that my block would not hold pressure and was squirting water out of the bottom of the sleeves...With looking at it you could never tell only until it was pressurized.. it sucks but this crap happens..I have a GE block now and no problem with it.

 

Oh by the way if your boosted like I was your going to need a rebuild on that turbo...bearings fried with the water in the oil...I thought i could slip by but no gotta spend$$$$$$$$...Atleast check the turbo, like I said mine was rebuilt before putting 40 miles then had to rebuild again...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Redwidow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had this exact looking crap happen to me under 40 miles. I had all the parts taken out and in to be checked. It turned out that my block would not hold pressure and was squirting water out of the bottom of the sleeves...With looking at it you could never tell only until it was pressurized.. it sucks but this crap happens..I have a GE block now and no problem with it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

So you had no milk in your oil pan either?

 

Mine had mixed 2 qts of water so yes i had it in the pan by the looks of his VC it has to be floating around in the pan..its impossible not to be in the pan.

 

well my sleeves did not drop , but if it is the steped deck , would torqing the head studs more solve this ??? cus earl said the step is only .002 of an inch and mine is crushed down realy nice all the way around , even on my old h/g you could see the marks from it sealing up , but i also torqed them to 82ftlbs , haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jordo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
edit: Conclusion: After pressurizing the system with the oil pan off, they found a tiny pin hole in one of my coolant lines.

Modified by Jordo at 5:24 PM 2/22/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>


.....you mean in the water jacket or where?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


.....you mean in the water jacket or where?</TD></TR></TABLE>

n/m I read the rest - sounds like you're still searching.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mochanic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK, I had a little more time and read every single post. Sorry I didn't do that before posting the first time!

Every single motor I have ever built for someone that had GE sleeves (the old godzilla style when they used to use RTV sealant) had the same issues with losing coolant or overheating.
Most of the motors were step decked, which I do not recommend by any means, but after every single one of them was taken apart I found that they had dropped sleeves. The worst having a .007" drop below the block deck height. After all of them were milled using a fly cutter and taking pictures and measurements after every .001" cut you could actually see the problem. Here is a high res pic for you to see for yourself, notice the cutter removing aluminum, but no cylinder material, and this was a stepped deck block when it came back from GE! http://www.attituderacing.com/Milled%20deck.jpg

One more thing to ponder, if the head gasket doesn't get enough crush due to the stepped deck, the coolant can get over to the oil drain back holes.

Fact is your losing coolant right? Well if its not a blown head gasket and its not smoking (burning it) then it has to be getting into the oil somehow if your getting the milky white oil. Since your valve cover has the milky oil in it there is no possible way that its not like that in your oil pan too! Just the oil that's splashed all over the bottom side of the valve cover would carry that milky oil back into the oil drain holes and into the pan even if it was a condensation issue which I find almost impossible!
BTW, I have the rest of the pics of the dropped sleeves between cuts on the mill if you would like to see them too.

First I was told by GE that their sleeves didn't drop (even though I had proof they did), then they come up with a new sleeve and process not to mention what looks like JB weld to help hold them in place rather than the orange RTV that they used to use. I have not assembled seen any issues with their new sleeve and process so far, but then again, I have only built one motor with those sleeves so far.

Bottom line here is that it is actually possible to have oil and water mix especially with stepped decks!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand what you are saying, but I have dropped my oil pan numerous times, and there is no milkyness in there, just oil. I understand that you have built many blocks and I am sure you know way more than me, but I have built few motors. Take into account that you were building GE blocks, and as far as I know Jordan and I have Benson blocks. Every time I have dropped the pan to check, no water, and no coolant. I am at a loss over all of this. I do not know why myself and two buddies that live with me have the same stepped deck block from Benson, and only I have this problem. Two of us had our blocks sleeved at the same exact time also. I don't know, but I am wishing on a star that this is not the sleeves, but something with the breather system.

 

they pressure tested teh block, with pan off.. its not the sleeves..

they pulled head off, gonna pressure test the whole head, look for cracks.

 

Kevin (b18jay), I have always been blaiming the breather system as the fault. You are kind of wrecking that theory. You do not even have an aftermarket breather on your valve cover? The goofy thing is you run anti freeze and your breather box is filling with water. That just makes it more goofy.
When a sleeve drops, it blows a huge amount of pressure and heat into the cooling sustem. You cannot be losing small amounts of coolant with a sleeve drop. When a sleeve drops, it is exactly like blowing a head gasket.
If there was a sleeve problem, it would show up thru the whole block, not just the valve cover.
Do you run the same brand of oil as Mike Ingram does? We could try switching to his brand, clean the valve cover and see if the milk comes back.
For everyone experiencing this, remember it is not dangerous for the engine to have the milk in the valve cover. However if it mixes with the oil in the pan that would be dangerous.
Kevin, maybe you should also try some stop leak. If we can stop your coolant leak, I would love to know if that stops the milk also.
Right now I am totally stumped.

 

Jordo, exactly how much coolant are you losing on a daily basis? If it is not going on the ground and not filling up your pan, it has to be going out the exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jordo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they pressure tested teh block, with pan off.. its not the sleeves..

they pulled head off, gonna pressure test the whole head, look for cracks. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I didnt think it was the block. i dont think it will be the head either. Im betting its something really retarded posibly the breather set up.
Like i said Mine did the same thing and never really gave me any problems. Other then the milky valve cover the one time i took it off.

 

just hit it with a hammer. lol (jk)

im leaning towards the pcv/breather system

 

Earl, I do use the same oil as mike, we both use Castrol 10w30. I will try some stop leak and see how that works. I am gonna pull the valve cover off this weekend and clean it and add some stop leak. Maybe by chance that will work. Who knows, I might just hit it with a hammer.

 

have you guys re-tourqing or checking your head studs at all ??? cus they do straetch and what did you tourqe them to ??? cus like i said mine where loose and i put them in hand tight like arp said ,

 

I have not retourqued mine, but if you think that might help, I will try to do that this weekend, what torque specs did you use?

 

well when i just put my head on this time i put the studs in with the 3/16" allen key and tightened it like you would a spark plug , and then took the head down in 3 steps , first 40ftlbs , second 65ftlbs , and then third 81ftlbs , and i used a 30w oil and they when down nice and smooth , so give it a shot ,

 

i think mine mighta been jsut a **** hair loose after time. so I can believe that mighta had something to do with it.

Jordo, that is deff something to take into consideration.

 

the brand of sleeves is irrelevent, they are aftermarket, and can settle after the block is heated up with a cylinder head bolted to it and a bunch of cylinder psi exerted on them.

no, tightening the head bolts or studs even more is not gonna help any, thats not the issue. At the tq your currently at your already risking pulling out the threads in the block, I would definatley not go any higher!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well mine was oil in the coolant i never had any milky crap in the oil at all , but when i took my head off the 2 middle studs where loose, my breather system is baffled , wich i know the greddy is not and endyn i dont think is eather , but i was missing coolant to but i live in upsate ny so no coast here , i realy hope we can all put are heads together and figure this out , </TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the same issue oil in coolant! No coolant or water in the oil tho. My valve cover is clean and so is my oil pan. My over flow bottle every so often gets oil in it and I lose coolant regularly. Mine also runs hot. I live in the middle of Ohio.

I have a Benson sleeved block that is step decked.

I would love to find the solution just like everyone else!!

 

"At the tq your currently at your already risking pulling out the threads in the block "

well when i called arp this is what they said to do if you used oil to tq them and not arp lube , and i could see them pulling out on a D series but i dont think so on the B series with 11mm threads ,

 

Believe me, they will pull out!
although I have never done it I have customers come to me all the time for me to install timeserts for them, and believe it or not, most of them are usually using stock head bolts. Just did one across town a couple days ago for another shop, and had another shop call me about getting one done for them too (both were using stock head bolts!)

ARP doesnt know the limits of the blocks theirs studs are going on, they are just telling you what the recommended max tq is of their studs.
I think you will see this problem more often on blocks that have had the head fasteners in and out a few times.