What intake manifold do you have Jordan? and what is the outcome of pressure testing the head?

 

Bump:

 

waiting to hear from the shop about my car... :/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"At the tq your currently at your already risking pulling out the threads in the block "

well when i called arp this is what they said to do if you used oil to tq them and not arp lube , and i could see them pulling out on a D series but i dont think so on the B series with 11mm threads , </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, I think the threads are perfectly fine at 81lb ft. w/ OIL. With arp lube that'd definetly be on the high end, but w/ just oil there's a lot more friction on the threads on the nut end, which puts less force on the threads in the block.

-Mike

 

also the stud reaches further into the block than a head bolt does , so there are more thread area ,

 

so are you saying that the studs themselves should be torqued into the block at 81 ft/lbs, or the nuts that keep the head to the block?

I am confused now.

 

i just torq the nuts , the studs i put in at about 22 flbs

 

ok, I was scared there for a second, because I put my studs into the block at about 23 ft/lbs. Thanks for the help.

 

For those of you that don't read the instructions!!!
You do not torque the studs into the block, you install them hand tight.

We won't turn this post into a how to, or who is right post.
The point I was trying to make with the 81 ft lbs being on the verge of pulling the threads out was based on real world experiences with numerous customers and their blocks with the threads that pulled out. That's why I own both timesert thread repair kits for B series totaling over $800.

The factory recommends 65lbs with oil on the stock bolts that actually have 3 more threads than an ARP stud. (its pretty dang close to bottoming out) Now, is that number one they came up with because that's the max the bolt can handle before stretching, or is it a number they came up with that's "safe" and when followed closely will not pull the theads out of the block, or maybe its a combination of the two, Who knows...
Now we do know that ARPs suggestion of 81lbs with oil (70 with the supplied moly grease) is based on fastener strength and stretch reguardless of what its being screwed into.
First off, why would anybody need to use regular oil since they send you way more than enough moly grease to coat the nuts and washers at least twice?

I'm not saying that your gonna pull the threads out if you do this, I'm just giving you a warning that it happens more than you think it does!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Water is a byproduct of combustion. Steam develops in the exhaust on cold mornings because the water created by combustion is cooled below the dew point by the cold exhaust pipe before dissipating. Has nothing to do with overnight condensation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have a source for that information? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Just wanted to say beepy's conclusion is correct about water in the exhaust.. Water is a byproduct of combustion, and when the car shuts off there are the hot exhaust gases that are present left in your exhaust system. When you turn off the car/let it sit fora while and the air cools, it turns into condensation (water vapor in the air turns to water and sits in your exhaust, remember hot air holds more moisture than cold air) and hence you have water sitting in your exhaust pipe.

Just think about going outside some mornings and notice the wet grass? Same thing happens.

-Mike

 

Update!!!

my head is fine... We have no idea what the problem is now... We are all out of ideas...

 

ouch.....wtf jordo? this suckksss

maybe it's the tranny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by m R g S r &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ouch.....wtf jordo? this suckksss

maybe it's the tranny </TD></TR></TABLE>

At this point I am going to say it's the turbo VTEC fluid Jordo, touch base with me later tonight.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0x64 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At this point I am going to say it's the turbo VTEC fluid Jordo, touch base with me later tonight.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im leaning toward moisture, because i think the coolant leak is fixed...

 

Have you changed your muffler bearings?

 

i see a common denominator in all this: stepped decks.

has anyone just decked the block normally? I mean just having a deep scratch in the head or block mating surfaces will cause leaks. wouldnt 4 big cylinders that are taller/shorter than the rest of the deck cause HUGE leaks?

the thing that puzzles me is the goop is only in the valve cover and not in the rest of the motor.

on a side note. gas is a hydrocarbon. meaning water and something else. when burnes water is released.thats why you get water/steam out the back in the morning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i see a common denominator in all this: stepped decks.

has anyone just decked the block normally? I mean just having a deep scratch in the head or block mating surfaces will cause leaks. wouldnt 4 big cylinders that are taller/shorter than the rest of the deck cause HUGE leaks?

the thing that puzzles me is the goop is only in the valve cover and not in the rest of the motor.

on a side note. gas is a hydrocarbon. meaning water and something else. when burnes water is released.thats why you get water/steam out the back in the morning. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe the same thing, but why do noone elses step decks leak??

 

What a relief, and what a let down at the same time. I am glad to hear its not the head, but damn, wish we knew what is causing the gunk in the valve cover?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jordo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I believe the same thing, but why do noone elses step decks leak??</TD></TR></TABLE>

they do, thats why I either have them flycut on a mill if they are already stepdecked, or do not get them that way in the first place.
As stated before, I do not recommend step decking for any reason on any motor!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mochanic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

they do, thats why I either have them flycut on a mill if they are already stepdecked, or do not get them that way in the first place.
As stated before, I do not recommend step decking for any reason on any motor!</TD></TR></TABLE>

you konw, i didnt tell the shop that did my motor to do a step deck!!!

 

Yea, I mill everything flat...never had a problem.

 

Just thought that I would share I did a little expirament two days ago:

I took two cups and put a small amount of oil in both of them. I added water to one and coolant to another. I let them sit for two days. the cup with oil and water looks just like what is under my valve cover. The cup with oil and coolant did not look anything like it and it had a distinct coolant smell. I am sticking to what I see with my own eyes, its not coolant under the valve cover. I could very well have a pin hole in one of my coolant lines like Jordan did. But I don't believe that I am leaking coolant because of the stepped deck.

 

No offense taken.

I never said all of them leak or have problems especially due to just the step decking, most of the problems are due to a dropped sleeve. Reguardless, I have always in the past had to redeck a motor that had aftermarket sleeves no matter the brand. And as the pics prove that I posted aftermarket sleeves do drop and even the ones that are stepped deck drop more than enough to cause problems.
So far to date every single motor that I have ever built or seen with my own eyes that had aftermarlet sleeves installed in them have had some sort of coolant/overheating/oil mixing issue sooner or later.

In your experiment did you mix the coolant 50/50 with water like I would hope that you did in your motor? and did you shake it up right before coming to your conclusions like it gets under the valve cover with all the oil splashing going on?

 

Okay, maybe environmental?

Do you have a hood vent? Does it rain a lot? Is it possible that rainwater is pooling on the valve cover in some spot where it can then leak into the engine?

 

I have a CF Hood, as far as I know, there are no leaks...