Notveryfast

First off, I feel bad for all u guys that have to answer these same old questions all the time, and I wanna say Im sorry for contributing to that. BTW, I did search and thats how I came up with what I have now. I've got some questions regarding my setup again. This is what it looks like now:

Garrett T3/T4
Tial 35mm WG
RevHard Mani
DropShop 2.5" DP
Charge Piping
K&N filter
Oil feed/return line
Silicone Hose/Couplings
Vacuum Tees/Lines
Flex Pipe
SMC 500
NGK Sparkplugs
Manual Boost Controller
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump

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The Questions:
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1.) My goal HP is about 350whp on a B16a with a t3/t4. What trim and A/R should I get that will cover that goal but not cause unnecessary lag?

2.) As you've noticed, Im not gonna be using an IC originally so I only want to boost 5lbs or so at first. The spring on a Tial 35mm WG is set at 7lbs originally right? Unless Im mistaken, a manual boost controller can only raise the boost above 7lbs and not take it any lower then that. How do I get it so its only at 5lbs or so. If I need to replace the spring, where can I get one at?

3.) Which sparkplugs should I get (product # too if you have it)? I cant figure it out on their webpage.. they keep telling me to get platinums and I know thats not right.

4.) Anyone have any experience using the SMC+ or SMC 500? I decided to pick one of these up b/c it would be cheaper then buying an FMU and a missing link and it would give me a degree of programability. The problem is, I dont know what to set it at originally. If I pick up a fuel pressure gauge, I can tell how much fuel Im supplying the engine but how will I know if thats enough or too much without taking it to the dyno. I mean I need to at least drive it to the dyno, I cant install my setup there. Is there anyway to get a base reading or something. Im looking for suggestions here, im at a loss.

5.) Is there anything else missing from the setup? Can I run it like this? Im eventually gonna get a good BOV and a good IC but I cant afford it yet. Do i have enough of a fuel system to run with?

Thanks for the help all.


Modified by Notveryfast at 3:26 AM 5/2/2003

Notveryfast

ttt

Nine

Where's the love guys? There sure have been a lotta un-answered posts lately on the FI board. Anyway, the only thing I got for you is the plugs. Unless its much different then the SC setups, you should get 2 step colder copper plugs. Call up NGK and askem for the parts number.


Modified by Nine at 3:44 PM 5/2/2003

civicqm

Bump for a little help...

I think that you can purchase a 5lb spring and I am sure that you can find someone on here who has one. That is about all I know...Good luck man

Nine

Oh yeah and I was thinking while I was at the gym, you could probably just stay in vacuum while driving to the tuner, that way you won't blow ur engine. But you'd have to program the SMC to stock fuel settings for the rpms that ur in vacuum. I think that should work.

Notveryfast

ttt again.

Notveryfast

Guys whats up, 75 views and no help? Why arent you responding? I know most of you know the answers to these questions. Please help a brother out. For those of you who have responded so far thanks, but I still need more information about the plugs and whether staying in vacuum will work for the whole SMC thing. Thanks.


Modified by Notveryfast at 9:10 PM 5/2/2003

Notveryfast

and again.

Notveryfast

So umm yeah.. ttt again. Did I accidently post this on clubsi or something, I thought you guys would have a clue.. 105 views and no one knows a damn thing.

I found out some answers on my sparkplug question cuz of this post:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=493301

But there is a lot of varience in the answers. Still need more help.


Modified by Notveryfast at 8:18 PM 5/3/2003

ion_four

I think no one is responding for a few reasons;
These questions have been answered before on here, or they could be easily found somewhere else.
People have their own things they are dealing with and posts like this only stagnate the board and keep it in the past. How are things supposed to move ahead if people spend all their time reiterating the known?

Wit that said, please just search in the future. Alot of these questions may not have been specifically answered, but similar ones surely have and you can figure it out using that info. Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach him to fish and feed him for a lifetime...

1) turbo trim and a/r is not that big of a deal, just find some compressor maps and figure out how many cfm (or more likely lb/min) you will have to flow to make a given boost pressure that you will need to make your hp goal. I think 15psi is a little on the low side if you aren't going to really tune it, but it should be possible to achieve 300whp. The thing to worry about is your internals, because the engine can stand that amount of boost, but NOT detonation at that boost level, so you need to make sure you aren't detonating, which can be caused by running lean or from too advanced timing and you have no ignition management listed, but anyway...

2) just wait until you get the intercooler, don't get greedy for power. Besides, you'll have to waste money on other piping to circumvent the intercooler. If you just take the spring out of the wastegate you just won't boost at all and then you should be cool. I'm uncertain if anyone makes a 5lb spring, because that's pretty weak

3) run two steps colder than stock. if your stock ngk number is BPR7ES, then you want BPR5ES, let's say...

4) The SMC seems to work well, but I don't think you understand what it does. It does NOT change fuel pressure, it changes injector dutycycle (how long the injectors are open during each stroke). You will need bigger injectors to run this, but you probably won't be able to hit 15psi with it. At the least you would need 450-550cc injectors, trim them almost all the way into the negative 35-50% depending on size and use the walbro pump and a fuel pressure regulator, so you can bump the pressure.

5) So, you need larger injectors, but will probably not be able to run 15psi, anyway, because the stock MAP sensor might top out and/or send too high of a voltage to the ECU, which will freak out and throw a code. I know it's hard, but just wait to get the intercooler and BOV, because not having the first is bad for your engine and power and the lack of the second is bad for your turbo. I would really consider getting something like hondata to run 15psi, because it could get sketchy without it. Also, use stainless steel braided lines for the oil inlet and return lines to avoid maintenance troubles in the future.

Alright, that just took quite a bit of time and I hope you appreciate it, but in the future you should search, read, learn and come to your own conclusions.

Notveryfast

Ion four, thanks for the reply. What you guys take for granted as common knowledge, is completely novel to other people. I did search for this stuff because I know its been said before but the details can be overlooked when you don't know what it is you're looking for. When someone told me to get 2 step colder plugs, I didnt know that you simply add 2 to the NGK part number. Obviously I have a long way to go in my research, since I don't have a clue what you are talking about in ur answer to question number one. Got a write up for that? Anyway, im still gonna run it w/o an IC at first at a low boost setting. Piping doesnt cost that much and if the GReddy kit comes w/o an IC then I know its possible and I know there is a spring out there that will run at those kind of boost levels. Thanks for the help with the SMC too. I can't search for three letter words so I didnt know what it actually did, I guess Ill need to pick up some dsm injectors. Thanks for taking the time to write that up.

I still am looking for answers to questions 1, 2, and 4. TIA.