~~~Help with Turbo Bogging~~~
So I just finished installing a RevHard kit onto my GSR and it is running extremely rich and it is bogging on idle.
I have a Skunk2 ECU with raised redline and vtec crossover, 255hpl Walbro fuel pump, RC 440 injectors, missing link, a GE vacuum box, colder plugs and the typical turbo accesories.
Im not sure y it would bog. Is it maybe because of the following?
Do I need to retard my timing?
Did I install the missing link upside down? Is tat even possible?
Do I need a stock ECU?
Thanks for any suggestions u might have.
I have a Skunk2 ECU with raised redline and vtec crossover, 255hpl Walbro fuel pump, RC 440 injectors, missing link, a GE vacuum box, colder plugs and the typical turbo accesories.
Im not sure y it would bog. Is it maybe because of the following?
Do I need to retard my timing?
Did I install the missing link upside down? Is tat even possible?
Do I need a stock ECU?
Thanks for any suggestions u might have.
Check all your vacuum lines, also make sure they are all going to the right places. Did you mess with any sensors like TP or MAP plugs. Do you have any CEL's?
Yea all the vac lines are secure and tight. Didnt mess with with sensors. No o2 sensors or exhaust on yet. But would tat cause so much hesitation on idle?
im pretty sure that the skunk2 ecu isnt scaled for 440cc injectors. since the ecu is already chipped you could probably easily get a nice uberdata or crome basemap to idle those 440's. then its time for a tune. what are you using for fuel management right now? if you think the skunk2 program is gonna handle any type of boost you are way off.
The Skunk2 was when i was NA. Im actually running my 440s with a Vortech FMU. I wanted to just be able to drive to the shop to get it tuned after the install. DO you guys think its because of the Vortech FMU tat on the 440s tat its bogging?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DC2NING »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DO you guys think its because of the Vortech FMU tat on the 440s tat its bogging?</TD></TR></TABLE>
YES. what ratio fmu do you have. if its something like a 12:1 or 10:1 then 440's are way too big. those are made for use with stock injectors. and the skunk ecu isnt gonna work with 440's either. looks like your best bet would be to run stock injectors and then swap to 440's at the place you are gonna get tuned. make sure not to boost on the way though. take off a charge pipe or remove the wg spring.
YES. what ratio fmu do you have. if its something like a 12:1 or 10:1 then 440's are way too big. those are made for use with stock injectors. and the skunk ecu isnt gonna work with 440's either. looks like your best bet would be to run stock injectors and then swap to 440's at the place you are gonna get tuned. make sure not to boost on the way though. take off a charge pipe or remove the wg spring.
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After all the replies and much research, I plan to run the stock injectors with the Walbro fuel pump on the Skunk2 ECU and take out the Vortech FMU and then get it tuned. Do you think that will work so that i can drive to get it tuned?
yeah the car should run just like it did NA, just dont boost at all. you should be ok. how far do you have to go? it would probably be better to at least get a basemap first but in your situation i would probably just run the skunk ecu with stock injectors, you could leave the fmu on just in case i guess. but in the end 440's and a tune will be much better.
Just want to thank u advance dpetro. U been a great help unlike some other ppl in other forums.
Anyway, I was hoping to be able to drive my car to get it tuned by Jeff Evans in PA which is about a 2 hour drive from my house in NYC. Leaving the FMU wont hurt anything, correct? Do I need to remove the Wastegate spring to prevent boosting? Or driving slow would be fine?
I gotta readjust my FPR as well, since I messed with it hoping it would fix the idle. I would adjust it with the Vac line off, correct.
Anyway, I was hoping to be able to drive my car to get it tuned by Jeff Evans in PA which is about a 2 hour drive from my house in NYC. Leaving the FMU wont hurt anything, correct? Do I need to remove the Wastegate spring to prevent boosting? Or driving slow would be fine?
I gotta readjust my FPR as well, since I messed with it hoping it would fix the idle. I would adjust it with the Vac line off, correct.
you could leave the fmu. all it will do is add some exta fuel if you boost. but you shouldnt be on the way to get tuned anyways. plus the skunk ecu will probably just go into limp mode of it sees boost anyways. you could take out the spring if you want or just use your right foot to control it. its not that hard and you can beat the **** out of it once you leave Jeff's 
edit: im foot ambidextrous
Modified by dpetro1 at 5:19 PM 8/8/2006
Modified by dpetro1 at 5:20 PM 8/8/2006

edit: im foot ambidextrous
Modified by dpetro1 at 5:19 PM 8/8/2006
Modified by dpetro1 at 5:20 PM 8/8/2006
U mean right foot, rite....lol.....the FMU gonna get removed once its tuned correct? So I thought I would remove it first....lol
So here is my update....Im gonna purchase new O-rings (since I bore them out for the 440s) and then reinstall the stock injectors and see if it idles better.
I set up an appointment for Jeff Evans Tuning for October. Hopefully everything will be fine till then. THanks again. Ill keep u updated on this project of mine.
I set up an appointment for Jeff Evans Tuning for October. Hopefully everything will be fine till then. THanks again. Ill keep u updated on this project of mine.
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