Just wanted some insight on the flow control valve for the clutch line. I will be running a twin disk this year and read about it.

How many of you guys use it? Is it necessary?

 

i run one, it helps me with staging and helps save heavy shock that occurs when shifting gears... I have a CC twin disk and am running the middle sized pill...

 

Ive heard a lot of people burning up ceramic clutches with them works best with a carbon clutch

 

Ditto!

 

This.

We don't run it on our cars and we run a Clutch Masters Twin Disc 725 series. However, we do run a dog box. Might help if set up properly (smallest orifice) and on a stock gearset.

 

Weve run them on ceramic and carbon clutches as long as you dont get to aggressive with the orfice both will survive pretty well.

 

I am planning on a stock gearset for now. I have a comp twin.

From what I have read it is mixed reviews on whether to run one or not, so info from people is appreciated.

 

i used it on a vr6 6 speed with a clutch master twin disk, clutch only lasted 3 months with out even getting into boost called clutch master and they blamed it on the tune had to buy a rebuild kit they wouldn't cover it under warranty

 

had big clutch issues with CM one as well but heard great things about the Tilton, will try Tilton and see. On the CM valve i had even drilled the holes bigger to stop slipping and still would not work.. I think they need to re do that design..

 

We've initially ran the Tilton FCV on our Tilton ceraamic twin and it worked great. We also used the Hydraulic Releasing Bearing after and the whole clutch setup just felt even better with the whole combo. We're using the Tilton Carbon with theTilton HRB and FCV now. The Tilton combos are great, its one of those that you set it and forget it. Never have issues with it.

 

I use the Tilton FCV on my single disc set-up, with the medium sized oriface, never had a problem. I street drove the car daily all year, as well as drag racing every weekend.

 

ive had the tilton valve on my car for about 2 years with a clutchmasters fx700 twin. middle orifice the whole time and clutch has been fine. i also take the clutch out all the time and sandblast the iron off it.

 

We've never used a FCV. Works flawless without it with our Competition Clutch twin disc.

 

i just use the biggest orifice now. I used the smallest and it seemed way to slow but im sure the trans was liking it though when it was stock lol. Medium should cushion pretty well too.

 

x2

 

I used the tilton FCV with the smallest orifice and was cutting a 1.6 60ft. It was very forgiving on my drive train.
Im switching to the clutch masters FCV because I want to play with the orifice sizes more and change boost levels to see if I can get my 60ft down. And I like the idea that you do not have to break the hydrolic system to change them. I hate bleeding the system.

 

of course it works flawless with out it... you also pay attention to transmision assembly and dont abuse parts... the flow control helps people that have a habit of stabing the clutch or droping the clutch get more consitent clutch application... if you are consitent driver and have good habits you wont see the same results as some one who does not. As far as burning up clutches if you have a small bleed and the clutch returns slow yeah I could see issues... but if the pedal is adjusted properly and you use the medium or larger pill it shouldnt affect clutch life at all... it is a must if you want to keep stock trans leaving as long as possible....it's like anything else use it proper and you will see the best results use it wrong and enjoy shity results....

 

would one of these work? http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ING...ol-Valve-6ZC07

 

operating pressure of 200 psi..... havent dataloged the clutch pressure.." maybe one of the motec user's have :p" , but the tec specs says
Thermoplastic
Glass-reinforced valves provide free flow in 1 direction, controlled flow in opposite direction. Color-coded micrometer and calibrated adjustment ****. Ring lock keeps adjustment from accidentally moving. Panel mount nut included.
Operating temp. range: 0° to 200°F
looks like it is adjustable via **** instead of pill change.... now experimenting with that might burn up clutch if you get the realease set to slow.... might work but might not last in a motorsports enviorment... for the price might be cool to try though....

 

I'm sure that a clutch line is above 200psi. I think its close to what brake pressure is.

 

So The fluid control valve is it pretty much just a restrictor?