How did I never see this thread...

 

finally got another truck, 2008 chevy 3500 duramax, white. got some poli seal and some colinite 845 for it. has 68k miles, so paint isnt too bad. just the typical swirls.

like mentioned before, i am a megs 105/205 and menzerna IP guy.

i know a little poli seals goes along way. from what i have read, i think poli seal with a orange cc pad will suffice using my pc 7424. what about the colinite 845? that stuff is so thick. apply by pc or mf pad?

the truck is just a tow truck for the race cars, so not too worried about getting the classic summit white pain to pop. mainly just wanna do a quick correction and cover her up.

Not new to detailing at all. But mostly do show cars/muscle cars. Don't do too many daily driven vehicles.

 

Ive been using CG products about a year now.

My last full detail I did:

wash with cg citrus w&g
clay with meguiars clay and cg medium (same results)
polish with 3m polish in the yellow bottle
cg glaze (I think the ultra gloss, its a mint colored glaze)
cg jetseal
cg 50/50 wax
cg silk shine (for interior and exterior trim, and tires)

I have been happy overall with the products. I have the V series compounds/polishes too. I have some scratches I cant seem to get out, even with an aggressive compound so im not sure if its a product issue or something else.

Heres a few pics after the detail

 

Nice job

If the scratch is too deep then no amount of compound or filler will get rid of it. That's when wet sanding/polishing comes into play.

 

Thanks! I feel like its not bad enough to warrant that, but it doesnt bother me enough to wetsand without someone that has done it before.

I went ahead and did another detail(those pics were from last July)

this time I did:

wash with CG Mr Pink
clay with CG medium clay
polish CG V34 and V36
cg glaze (I think the ultra gloss, its a mint colored glaze)
cg jetseal
cg 50/50 wax
cg silk shine (for interior and exterior trim, and tires)

the results were great again!

 

Nice man your paint looks awesome

What pads did you use for your cut and polish?

I can't wait to detail my car. It's still a little too cold out here and I need some more stuff before I begin.

 

Thanks!

I used a hex logic orange for the v34, a hex logic white for v36, a hex logic black for the glaze and a red for jet seal

 

Nice job man looks great

I just used my PC7424xp for the first time. I did my buddies roof of his Sti that had some light swirl marks. I used a green CCS all in one pad with Sonax perfect Finish. This combo make the job so easy to use!

I finished it off with Pete's 53 wax applied by hand with a UFO pad.

I wish I would have taken pics but the paint wasnt in that bad of condition so I didnt bother. I'll take some 50/50 shots of the door when I get to it as they are in worse condition.

 

Show me your bestest towels to dry your cars off with.

So many to pick.

Used leaf blower today and don't hate it, but if I can hit it with a towel first it's gonna make life easier. The stuff I have from chemical guys aren't too bad but I'd like more of them. Before buying more of what I have (red waffle type) I'd like to make sure I'm not missing something amazing.

Thanks!

 

Rota check this site out: The Rag Company Home Page

and buy these drying towels: Dry Me A River! 29 x 59 Premium Microfiber Waffle Weave Towel | The Rag Company

These are the best towels I have used so far and work excellent. Just be sure when you wash them to NOT use any sort of fabric softener as they clog the "pours" within the towel and make them a lot less effective.

 

i use Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy towels, the big ones.

picture a big, white soft rectangle, haha.

it's not a waffle weave, it's a plush towel that sort-of feels like an ultra ULTRA soft bath towel. i left waffle weaves for these because i didn't feel as comfortable waffle weaves if i was drying outside (which is typically the case with my wife's stuff). the Dry Me crazy are so plush that i feel they would whisk away any dust or something that might land on the surface vs. drag it.

excellent point about washing and drying. it's imperative with these towels. also, if you use a "drying aid", make sure you are cleaning the towels really well because that can also inhibit them.

btw i started machine drying my towels a while back. love it. makes them so fluffy.

 

I've always wondered about the plush drying towels and if they worked as well as the waffle weave. I just imagine that they wouldn't as they don't have the pockets to pickup the water and felt they might cause streaks. I know you know your **** though so I'll have to try these out now

 

people love the towels you use though.

the plush ones i use probably work similarly to yours. they just zap the water. it's nuts how much they hold!

 

I'm always down for buying new products to try them out I've been using the Perfect Finish a little bit now and not sure what to think of it as I'm not a pro. I'm going to put that aside and get some Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover and Finishing polish, oh and a clay mitt, spray wax, detail spray and cookie monster towels so I might as well get some new drying towels

This hobby is pretty addicting

 

The dry me crazy towels are on my list. I just haven't got around to buying them.

I've been slacking lately. My civic is disgusting right now, however it did spend about a month on stands in the garage.

Been using the new Griot's garage poly wax just for fun lately. I like it for it is. Very easy to use, and according Griots will last approximately a year. It beads and sheets very well, and the gloss is very nice. It really brought out the blue flake in my paint where a lot of others don't and actually kind of cover it up.

 

Thanks guys! Will make a selection and report back!

Leaf blower is working alright but takes forever. F that.

 

try a better wax or sealant, or dear I say a paint coating.

 

I need some advice, I currently drive a black 09 civic si. When I first purchased the car, the dealership ruined the paint with swirl marks. I had the car buffed by a friend and it 100 percent fixed the issue. Then I had the car painted under a recall and again the dealership killed the paint, and again I went to a friend and had him buff it and fixed it. Now its been fine for about 6 months. I decided to wax it and It seems I've reapplied some light swirl marks/scratches into the paint. They are super light, and you can only see them when the sun hits the car in the right spot, but it drives me insane. Is there a solution to fix these without going back for another buff? something I can do by hand preferably?


edit: just read this on a detailing site...could be my issue

The hologram caused by residue has to be either evened out by removing or evening out the coats of wax/sealants. These can be removed relatively easily through the use of a suitable solvent or degreaser or you can simply wait for the product to wear off, therefore also causing the holograms to disappear.

 

You can try something like that, but it "could" end up causing the wax to fail/remove it.

What I like doing is using a quick detailer spray, or something similar. We do it at work all the time. Works like a charm.

 

Will try this weekend and let you know, I'm hoping it's just uneven wax cause I'd hate to have put more swirls in!

I used a clean pad when I put it on so we'll see!

 

Did a polish / wax earlier this year. The paint still looks pretty good for a 16 year old car

 

Man, beautiful titanium metallic... An EX too. I wish mine looked that good still.

Good to flip through this thread and see that I've been managing to do things at least mostly right all of these years. It was tough keeping anything clean/damage free growing up with a grass driveway and no garage, and now even harder hitting LA freeways every day. I need to go back through and pick up some more pro tips once I have a garage again.

 

sensational! great car too.

 

Bump this thread to life but I was wondering can my paint be saved or looks like it needs a repaint? Really hazy and possibly clear coat fading?

 

Post another picture. Short of it peeling/cracking, and just straight up gone it can probably be saved to a limit.

Simple oxidation removal is very simple if you have the right tools.