my project
No I didnt go. I have been working ALOT lately and havent had time to get online any. Plus I havent been able to get ahold of the guy that has the crx. So I figured there is no since in me going without a crx. Sad though I really wanted to go this year, hell I think I talked like 12 ppl into going. O well there is always next year I guess.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C1CRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great build up man cant wait to see the finished product any estimated time of completion </TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks. car won't be complete for a couple more years. this project is just part 1 of 3. Once the car is drivable i'll start my interior project and finally the motor.
thehatchninja, EGdriva, Gremice, b16civster: thank you.
update-while wetsanding some overspray from touched up area i burned through and edge. this omni paint doesn't blend well so i decided to lay down 2 more coats. instead of wetsanding i proceeded to clear the car. when i opened the garage door i saw a few dark spots under the clear.
. i'm pretty upset and i'm moving forward...
bought a buffer. new oem rear bumper cover, bumper lights with new gaskets, roof moulding, lower door moulding and clips, shock mounting rubber and p30 IM gasket and throttle cable stay arrived.
i'll get some pics tomorrow.
thanks. car won't be complete for a couple more years. this project is just part 1 of 3. Once the car is drivable i'll start my interior project and finally the motor.
thehatchninja, EGdriva, Gremice, b16civster: thank you.
update-while wetsanding some overspray from touched up area i burned through and edge. this omni paint doesn't blend well so i decided to lay down 2 more coats. instead of wetsanding i proceeded to clear the car. when i opened the garage door i saw a few dark spots under the clear.
. i'm pretty upset and i'm moving forward...bought a buffer. new oem rear bumper cover, bumper lights with new gaskets, roof moulding, lower door moulding and clips, shock mounting rubber and p30 IM gasket and throttle cable stay arrived.
i'll get some pics tomorrow.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> when i opened the garage door i saw a few dark spots under the clear.
. i'm pretty upset and i'm moving forward...</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's aight man, really. Don't beat urself up over it. Look at the car you are building. One little spot will not taint the greatness.
. i'm pretty upset and i'm moving forward...</TD></TR></TABLE>It's aight man, really. Don't beat urself up over it. Look at the car you are building. One little spot will not taint the greatness.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's aight man, really. Don't beat urself up over it. Look at the car you are building. One little spot will not taint the greatness. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i wish it was one little spot. it is what it is... i'm over it now
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambbrose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great writeup so far. Love the attention to detail.
Factory paints have blemishes so don't expect a perfect job.
Your car looks amazing for a first time paint</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks. after the interior and engine swap/build, i will paint the car perfectly. I know i can do it.
stripes on roof

buffed the hood. 1st time I've used a buffer.

car has mongolian spots


spot in the middle of the door. same thing happended on the first attempt.
I'm done painting for now...
It's aight man, really. Don't beat urself up over it. Look at the car you are building. One little spot will not taint the greatness. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i wish it was one little spot. it is what it is... i'm over it now
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambbrose »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">great writeup so far. Love the attention to detail.
Factory paints have blemishes so don't expect a perfect job.
Your car looks amazing for a first time paint</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks. after the interior and engine swap/build, i will paint the car perfectly. I know i can do it.
stripes on roof

buffed the hood. 1st time I've used a buffer.

car has mongolian spots


spot in the middle of the door. same thing happended on the first attempt.
I'm done painting for now...
Don't get down man, I had to paint my friends car like 8 times. First I got the strips, bad over lapping, then it was to hot and I got dry paint. The last time I did it I felt like a pro, lol.
wetsanded with 1000, 1500, 2000 in an "x" pattern. up/down then front/back. after sanding i wiped the car down with a microfiber rag and once the sun evaporated the water i'd see the low spots and focus on those. repeatd the process sanding diagonally. leveled all orangepeel in 3 hrs.

megs deep crystal system. step 1-paint cleaner. step 2-polish. step 3-wax

after step 1


started step 2 on the l rear of the roof. i was enjoying myself until the buffer rpm started to drop. noticed the foam pad was started to get hot so i called it a day. I need to find a write-up on polishing before i continue.

thanks for the positive comments

megs deep crystal system. step 1-paint cleaner. step 2-polish. step 3-wax

after step 1


started step 2 on the l rear of the roof. i was enjoying myself until the buffer rpm started to drop. noticed the foam pad was started to get hot so i called it a day. I need to find a write-up on polishing before i continue.

thanks for the positive comments
I'm glad you finally got the buffer!
I always remembered to work in small spots. Anyways check this out.
http://www.tintdude.com/detail-buffing.html
I always remembered to work in small spots. Anyways check this out.
http://www.tintdude.com/detail-buffing.html
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA, Don't use wax................
You need to use a compound like 3m. You can get it at any auto paint store. You need to cut the paint with a good compound, that will get all the scratches out.
You need to use a compound like 3m. You can get it at any auto paint store. You need to cut the paint with a good compound, that will get all the scratches out.
jdmazm:thanks for the link. i printed it out and followed it the best i could.
CBURKE: i've heard it's best to wait at least 90 days before appyling wax. tintdude says i'm supposed to wax it after buffing. wax now or wait?
this foam pad was killed during polishing.

3M products would have been over $100 so instead I picked up some evercoat heavy duty rubbing compound and dark glaze foam polish and new pads. This black foam pad looks exactly the same as the 3M black foam waffle pad but cost 1/3 of the price.

applied compound to a foam applicator and buffed started at a low rpm. applied a second coat and increased the rpm. used water from a spray bottle for the third coat. wiped down the car witha wet rag and dried it. did the same thing with the polish. the third coat of water made it shine. finished buffing car this evening.
should have found some different wheels before i started this project. found overspray and hard water stains on the wheels. each wheel was removed, cleaned with paint thinner, sprayed with powerized windex and allowed to sit for 15 minutes, wiped down with a microfiber rag, hosed off and wiped down again. the wheels cleaned up nicely.
CBURKE: i've heard it's best to wait at least 90 days before appyling wax. tintdude says i'm supposed to wax it after buffing. wax now or wait?
this foam pad was killed during polishing.

3M products would have been over $100 so instead I picked up some evercoat heavy duty rubbing compound and dark glaze foam polish and new pads. This black foam pad looks exactly the same as the 3M black foam waffle pad but cost 1/3 of the price.

applied compound to a foam applicator and buffed started at a low rpm. applied a second coat and increased the rpm. used water from a spray bottle for the third coat. wiped down the car witha wet rag and dried it. did the same thing with the polish. the third coat of water made it shine. finished buffing car this evening.
should have found some different wheels before i started this project. found overspray and hard water stains on the wheels. each wheel was removed, cleaned with paint thinner, sprayed with powerized windex and allowed to sit for 15 minutes, wiped down with a microfiber rag, hosed off and wiped down again. the wheels cleaned up nicely.
Here man, red some info here on cutting. And yes you can wax it after like 30 days, but if you didn't cut it with a good compound wax then the reg wax will just scratch it.
http://www.autobody101.com/for...71580
http://www.autobody101.com/for...71580
u should of wet sanded with 1500 to level orangepeel than u should of went of it with 2000 then use a foam pad and rubbing compound to buff the scratches out. and lastely u use a dark polishing pad with 3m finesse glaze to give a real shinier than shina shine!
The old bolts looked nasty and the threads were rusted. went to lowes and bought new m6-1x16 bolts, 6mm flat washers, and 3/16 fender washers. when i got home i used a 1/4" drill bit to enlarge the hole on the fender washers.

back of the car is almost done. still need to use trim paint on the hatch moulding, order a new seal for the rear wiper. if you look closely you can see that there's a piece missing from under the spoiler. don't know where i'm going to fing this part at becuase it's discontinued.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can u see ur face smilin back at you? </TD></TR></TABLE>
yep. i can see my grill.
cburke:thanks for the link. there's lots of good info on that site.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thomasbalaci »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u should of wet sanded with 1500 to level orangepeel than u should of went of it with 2000 then use a foam pad and rubbing compound to buff the scratches out. and lastely u use a dark polishing pad with 3m finesse glaze to give a real shinier than shina shine!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I took your advice and wetsanded my spoiler. I noticed that there were no sanding scratches and i spent less time buffing.

back of the car is almost done. still need to use trim paint on the hatch moulding, order a new seal for the rear wiper. if you look closely you can see that there's a piece missing from under the spoiler. don't know where i'm going to fing this part at becuase it's discontinued.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can u see ur face smilin back at you? </TD></TR></TABLE>
yep. i can see my grill.
cburke:thanks for the link. there's lots of good info on that site.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thomasbalaci »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">u should of wet sanded with 1500 to level orangepeel than u should of went of it with 2000 then use a foam pad and rubbing compound to buff the scratches out. and lastely u use a dark polishing pad with 3m finesse glaze to give a real shinier than shina shine!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I took your advice and wetsanded my spoiler. I noticed that there were no sanding scratches and i spent less time buffing.
Man, this is one of the finest projects I've read here! The car becomes very cool indeed, just gets better for each update! To describe it with one sentence:
I love your work!
Eirik
I love your work!
Eirik
I hope you didnt use a flexible pad to wetsand, not saying you didnt know how to, ive just seen so many people wetsand with their bare hand and a peice of sandpaper, and expletive up the whole thing.Did you use soap when you wetsanded? just wondering.



