thanks to these clarifying oil pan clearance. don't know if this come up before.. but..

why doesn't anyone try to fabricated mounts so engine sits higher? i'd rather deal with valve cover vs hood issue than oil pan vs ground.

 

because you want the axles to be almost straight

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">because you want the axles to be almost straight</TD></TR></TABLE>

didn't think about that one.

for these talking about skidplate -
it might be possible to make some type of brace (maybe even hard plastic cover just extending low enough to the ground) hooked up between tow hooks so it breakes the impact before oil pan.

 

Car looks great!! Definetly reminds me of doing Nates K20R-R! Good luck with it and Im looking forward to see what kind of power you make with the Kpro......Nate, if your reading this you need to get on that
I was considering fabricating a skidplate for Nates project. Still may sometime in the future since he likes his car a little lower than where it sits now. I looked at it a bit and decided that bolting it to the lower rad support probably isnt a good idea since if something were to come in contact with the plate then you may possibly bend the rad support at the same time. To do it properly it should run up to the underside of the frame rail, or bolt to the block and be totally seperate of the chassis.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

didn't think about that one.

for these talking about skidplate -
it might be possible to make some type of brace (maybe even hard plastic cover just extending low enough to the ground) hooked up between tow hooks so it breakes the impact before oil pan.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Problem with that is that at 60mph or hell anything over 5 mph, that "plastic" will break. The purpose of a skid plate is to hit something and slide/skid over it damaging only the skid and not what lies underneath. For speed bumps it might work, it would tell you that you were to damn low and to find another way around. But for normal driving conditions it would nt do any good.

Jim

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93LSivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Car looks great!! Definetly reminds me of doing Nates K20R-R! Good luck with it and Im looking forward to see what kind of power you make with the Kpro......Nate, if your reading this you need to get on that
I was considering fabricating a skidplate for Nates project. Still may sometime in the future since he likes his car a little lower than where it sits now. I looked at it a bit and decided that bolting it to the lower rad support probably isnt a good idea since if something were to come in contact with the plate then you may possibly bend the rad support at the same time. To do it properly it should run up to the underside of the frame rail, or bolt to the block and be totally seperate of the chassis.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good idea! If you do fabricate something, make it strong enough to be a lift point!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nikos &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Very nice!! Can't wait to hear how the car feels...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Drove the car around a little bit today. Did well. Speedy, to say the least. If this were a daily driver, the motor would be a delight, having torque in any gear at almost any RPM.

I don't think ground clearance is going to be a particular problem. Some of the roads I drove today were gravel and dirt roads, and the car did fine. The lowest point is actually the header at the point it connects to the SMSP exhaust. The oil pan might be higher than some of us were anticipating because HASPORT has designed new style motor mounts from lessons learned the ahrd way, and the motor is a little higher than before, but evidently w/out sacrificing to axle issues as long as you are using their new higher load axles.

The folks at Hondata do not like the header, so a new header will probably be on the car next year.

Down-tuned a little bit, the car is 220 HP on a Dynapak. I don't know what that would be on a Dynojet.

There are some little things that Corey will want to fix, including lowering the seats more and moving the gear linkage farther back on the tunnel. As it is, fifth gear is a little too easy to miss, partly because of how far away it is.

 

Awesome grandpa!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The lowest point is actually the header at the point it connects to the SMSP exhaust.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get us a picture if you can in the near future, i'd like to see that........

Congrats on the change BTW, best of luck.

 

If anybody has an idea about how to make fifth gear more precise, I'd love to hear it.

1-2 is fine, 2-3 is fine, 3-4 is fine...4-5 is IFFY...5-6 is fine.

What scares me is ending up in 3 after trying unsuccessfully to find 5, or even worse, going to 3 instead of 5 when trying to downshift from 6.

 

yup, thats the one thing i noticed when driving my friends RSX...

i stopped driving it after that, i didn't want to end up in 3rd gear either
he says you get used to it over time, i prefered not to

 

great stuff. Makes me still wish I had my integra and did this swap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup, thats the one thing i noticed when driving my friends RSX... </TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't understand why it's not designed so that when you've pushed the gear shift all the way to the right, moving upward puts you in fifth.

Instead, fifth is a little to the left of full right...but if you get to close to the spring gate you'll be in third.

Moving down to sixth works fine...so there must be some way to adjust it so it can't go that far to the right on the up stroke.

:scratch head:

 

his is the 02-04 RSX

do you no if this was ever brought to Honda's attention and corrected for the 05-06 models?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">his is the 02-04 RSX

do you no if this was ever brought to Honda's attention and corrected for the 05-06 models?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Buddy, I don't know.

I've driven an '02 DC5 and an '05 DC5, and I wasn't having this big of a problem with either one of them.

Maybe there are just some especially awful examples floating around.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If anybody has an idea about how to make fifth gear more precise, I'd love to hear it.

1-2 is fine, 2-3 is fine, 3-4 is fine...4-5 is IFFY...5-6 is fine.

What scares me is ending up in 3 after trying unsuccessfully to find 5, or even worse, going to 3 instead of 5 when trying to downshift from 6.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

there should be no problem going into 5th gear.....if there is a problem that means "REVERSE LOCKOUT" is not working....

with RL working it is just like slamming the gears .....

from 4th gear i push up then over and up....it slides right in....5th has never been or ever felt weird for me....

george does it feel like it is going into the reverse gate?

 

george i'll bet your reverse lockout isn't working properly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">george does it feel like it is going into the reverse gate?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Chad, I guess that's a possibility. I'll ask James and Corey about that.

Thanks for that idea.

 

ITR Spotting! I-95 Southbound in Baltimore.

 

No, that's not snow in the background.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, that's not snow in the background. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hope not. 68 Yesterday and 72 today!

 

this is what I did for my car.. although an EG, I think it will give you an idea what is involved

This is the shifter KIT I am using, from Karcepts.com

Shifter modifications (dimensions to cut will be provided in manual)








Simple template provided to help out










Grind the longer straight areas


Dremel the tight spots




Rear mount


Attaching rear mount




Attach cables to shifter, then attach shifter to mount w/ provided hardware


Cable cover plate


Attached cable cover plate


Damn, that's tight!






Like a glove...






Cable mounting bracket provided w/ rsx cables


You can pick up tapped holes in the bottom of the EG/DC crossmembers to mount the cable bracket (w/ EK crossmember, you will route cables above crossmember and not need anything but maybe a few tie wraps)


It's like Honda planned the cable routing this way.








Tons of clearance...


Finished product

 

looking good :-) I too have the karcepts setup.

 

did u dump the supra and jumped on the K series bandwagon??

good move if u dumped the supra

never the less car is looking mighty goood..

 

sweet conversion