oil pans are still cheaper than pimpy headers.....

doesn't anyone make a low profile oil pan for better clearance?

or is dry sump the way to go?

 

How does that compare to the lowest point of a B18, Jason?


Doesn't matter, the oil pan is now the lowest point NOT the rad support.


Once again, make sure you kids have plenty of spare pans and warning lights for low oil pressure....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Splat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How does that compare to the lowest point of a B18, Jason?</TD></TR></TABLE>

On a b18 it would be the header or the rad. support.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oil pans are still cheaper than pimpy headers.....

doesn't anyone make a low profile oil pan for better clearance?

or is dry sump the way to go? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Oil pans are cheaper but whats to say you dont notice it? If I hit something and put a hole in my header I'm gonna hear it and can still drive, unfortunately I'd be out the Toda bling. If George/Franza or any other k goer hits something you would have to pull over and see if it was in fact the pan. If you dont and just keep on driving, you risk the cost of another k motor.

 

Oil pan skid plate ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AssPenny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oil pan skid plate ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont know if you were totally joking? You could do it but it would create alot of wieght up front. The skid plates I had on my jeep were pretty heavy. A 1/4 inch plate of steel about a 1/4-1/2 inch lower than the pan bolted to the radiator support to the subframe, I would guess 15-30lbs depending on size.

 

How much better clearence does the TSX pan have?

 

Make it out of magnesium. Uber light and you can throw mad sparks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18CXr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doesn't matter, the oil pan is now the lowest point NOT the rad support.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Yack. I figured the bling headers some folks use would be lower, didn't think about the radiator support.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont know if you were totally joking? You could do it but it would create alot of wieght up front. The skid plates I had on my jeep were pretty heavy. A 1/4 inch plate of steel about a 1/4-1/2 inch lower than the pan bolted to the radiator support to the subframe, I would guess 15-30lbs depending on size.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. This is something that I'm looking into doing very soon. I'd gladly trade the weight for the protection.

That said, hopefully there will be no need to use the plate in the future.

Pat-

Honestly, although what Jack said is correct, the difference isn't as great as I thought prior to Kevin and I doing the installation. If anything, I was relieved with the clearance but would prefer a stronger pan myself. I don't mind risking it, though. The K is quite simply, a monster

Hopefully I won't blow it up by missing a shift or something

Jason-
who's glad GK will have the same powerplant in case he needs a "spare"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Back in Black &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
who's glad GK will have the same powerplant in case he needs a "spare" </TD></TR></TABLE>

Uhhhh..... Ummmm.....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AssPenny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make it out of magnesium. Uber light and you can throw mad sparks </TD></TR></TABLE>
lol dude

i do like the skid plate idea, i also like the idea of stiffening up the suspension quite a bit. sacrifice a little comfort for the saftey of what you just put into your R...

not that this compares or anything, but my R sits pretty low, and the JUN header sits even lower, i ALWAYS drive with my dampers cranked all the way up (stiffest) i'd probably cry if i ripped a whole in my header

 

if you need somone to take some pics of your car at the shop let me know, i live 10 minutes from there shop and iv got off this weekend

 

to hopefully help with some questions about the oil pan clearance...

Here's my 92 EG with tsx block and tsx motor with hasport mounts... on stock suspension and 15 inch watanabe wheels..of course tsx oil pan and keep in mind that the k24a is taller than the k20a





hey, maybe not the cleanest K series engine bay out there, but at least it is mine and it runs

Yes, that is the 2006 Civic Si manifold

 

^^^^

Holy hell that is low!!! I'd be scared to drive that. I'm a firm believer in if I hit something then my car is too low, I drive straight over speed bumps and dont cringe. With that right there I would say that you CANNOT go over a speed bump.

 

that is lower than my spoon 4-1!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^^^

Holy hell that is low!!! I'd be scared to drive that. I'm a firm believer in if I hit something then my car is too low, I drive straight over speed bumps and dont cringe. With that right there I would say that you CANNOT go over a speed bump.</TD></TR></TABLE> From my experiences: If you have like lets say a Mugen 4-1 header... Your header will hit before the oil pan on a B series. On the K series, the oil pan is actually aligned with the wheels. That means if you go over a speed bump the oil pan goes up at the same time the wheels do. WHO ACTUALLY HERE HAS A K SERIES SWAP?

 

Yah but if there is some debris on the freeway......guess whats first to get hit?

Large rock, piece of wood, its all bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yah but if there is some debris on the freeway......guess whats first to get hit?

Large rock, piece of wood, its all bad.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the oilpan from the k-swapped car traveling in front of you that just fell off..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmspoonitr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yah but if there is some debris on the freeway......guess whats first to get hit?

Large rock, piece of wood, its all bad.</TD></TR></TABLE> Well it can happen to any car. How many people do you know with dented headers? How many people do you know with a dented K series oil pan? Speak from experience not from hatred.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Some old thread &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cramer seems to have something new every time I see him. This time it was a K20 under the hood of his GSR. It's just a stock JDM Type-R motor as yet unimproved, but that was enough to transform the car he said. He's going to build it over the winter, and I can't imagine what a gas it will be to drive then. I asked him a bunch of questions. Yup - it evened up his left/right to within 4 lbs. But, the one thing that I had to check was ground clearance at the pan. It was 2.75 inches on a pretty typical DC2 ride height (23 inches to the fender lip, 4.5 inches to the jackpad, 4.0 inches to the splitter). For comparison my car (B18C5 powered DC2R) at a quarter inch lower measured 4.0 inches to the pan. Ron's header was lower than the pan, and my Comptech higher. He ate the curb in the chicane and escaped damage, but the possibility occured to him. He's planning a skid plate.

....Hasport mounts...

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Scott, who thinks a dry sumped 2.4 litre supercharged K would be Really Excellent...

 

You guys will eventually go K series: http://webpages.charter.net/ke...V.wmv

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ChopSuey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You guys will eventually go K series: </TD></TR></TABLE>
The K motor flows so well and inherently produces so much more power than other Honda motors that there are interesting restrictions placed on it for Honda Challenge.

Other H1 series motors placed in older chassis are allowed all kinds of improvements: camshafts, high compression, manifolds, etc. The K motor internals must remain all-stock or all-Honda, limiting the amount of money that can be spent on a K motor conversion.

Nevertheless, I think 2006 is going to be the year of the K motor in Honda Challenge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nevertheless, I think 2006 is going to be the year of the K motor in Honda Challenge.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think 2006 is going to be the year of the K motor in several different motorsports. Nice R BTW Listen to those guys at Hondata (Matt, Derek, Doug), they know a little about what works on K motors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Other H1 series motors placed in older chassis are allowed all kinds of improvements: camshafts, high compression, manifolds, etc. The K motor internals must remain all-stock or all-Honda, limiting the amount of money that can be spent on a K motor conversion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was looking at those rules, trying to understand the delta cost between my going back to H2, or H1 in a built B18C5 or K20A/K24.

Cams and rocker assemblies are not free on the K, must be OEM. Cams ARE free on the other motors. Everything else must be honda-manufactured, and compression is free for everyone.

I haven't figured out all the combinations, but I'm starting to wonder if a K20A head would fit on a K24, or if at least the R cams would swap over. 50 lb weight penalty for a 20% bump in compression sounds, well, neat.

I'm not sure what the best manifold for the K is, either. Maybe the Euro Accord type R manifold? *shrug*

-Chris, who thinks he should start learning more about the dreaded K... though, a monster high compression B18C5 with CTR pistons is also sounding interesting.

 

THe k20a head will fit and work on a stock CRV block or TSX block... although the tsx head will be fine as well.

Type r cams can be used, I am using them on my k24a.

So far the best manifold OEM.. seems to be the 2006 Civic Si manifold or euro accord R aka RBC manifold.

With proper tunning, a stock OEM k24a motor with k20a head, or a tsx motor with type r cams, should yield around 220whp on a dynojet.