I have a '00 Civic EX SOHC d16y8 w/ a garrett t3 turbo. Turbonetics wastegate(recirculating). Cast iron mani, 440 injectors, VAFC 2, Griffin intercooler, custom down pipe, and i'll retard the timing on the distributor...

Heres my question:
How much can I boost safely? Originally i was told 13 psi, then 9, then 7, then the guy says 5 safely <---That was our plan before the 440 injectors and VAFC. For any of you w/ the same or similar set up, what psi are you at? What is safe?
This is my daily driver, and need it to be reliable. But I want to get the most out of it... jsut safely.

 

its not psi that makes it not safe its the amount of power you are making for that motor 200 to 250 should be ok but its all about how the tune is and the condition of the motor befor being turbod

 

above is right about power not psi.

although your vafc and 440's will most certainly shorten the life on your engine. (especially at 13 psi with no means to retard timing) if you are goin boost, with all the management setups out there, you need to allocate a few bucks to have the car properly tuned.

 

but the power depends on the psi also. I dyno'd at 112 whp w/ i/h/e. i listed everything thats on it now, above. so0o im shooting for 200-220 (thats what id be content with). does that help w/ what psi i can boost to?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">above is right about power not psi.

although your vafc and 440's will most certainly shorten the life on your engine. (especially at 13 psi with no means to retard timing) if you are goin boost, with all the management setups out there, you need to allocate a few bucks to have the car properly tuned.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
We can retard the timing on the distributor. and i have access to a dyno to tune it right at shop called P2R.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LetAGrlShowU &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
We can retard the timing on the distributor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

that is retarded. sorry, bad sense of humor..
Seriously though, it's almost 2008 here..no place for that kind of thing when it's so easy to do it properly these days.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LetAGrlShowU &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
We can retard the timing on the distributor. and i have access to a dyno to tune it right at shop called P2R.</TD></TR></TABLE>

then you loose power every where, you are defeating your purpose.

tuning and right dont go hand in hand with a vafc. thats all i am saying.

 

poor humor. but cute. Well ive allocated all the funds i can, so the distributor it is. but thanks for the update that its 2008.

 

wow.
ok knocking the dizzy back now DECREASES your power from 0rpms on, where if you had a decent means of tuning other than the afc, you could use timing to your advantage to smooth power curve, ramp in boost, and have the car spool better.

but you know it is 2008.

wtf? almost got me its 07 for another month and a few days. he hee.

 

Sell your AFC heck and just get a chip p28 and run crome. Crome is free and all you paying for is the chip ecu. Than just find a tuner that does crome.

 

PEople will generally get ~1 degree of ignition retard for a street D16. 12psi would get you close to 200whp, and that means you'd need 20-25 degrees of retard to make it safe & reliable, not to mention keep it within the anti-knock zone. If you start knocking, at the very least you will start loosing double-digit WHP amounts! The VAFC tells your motor its still at 0psi when you are really at a higher pressure, and that's throughout the board. You can retard the dizzy a dozen degrees, but you're still going to run too little timing for high vacuum (bad gas milage, less power), and run too much timing for boost (unsafe, stupid, dumb, etc).

I also laugh at you saying you alocated all your funds, and will give it a shot anyways. When (not if) your motor breaks, you'll be **** up a creek for sure. Uberdata on a 96+ car takes $200 at the most, and gets you better AFR's and timing than the V-AFC ever will. In WI where people see the Honda symbol as a $ sign, I canl get a D16 long block for around $200 with questionable miles, but it takes more than $200 if I include my time to put it in my car... Think about it, work a few more hours this month, then look into uberdata or crome....

 

yes i am a girl. and i said i allocated my funds so yes there may be other ways of going about this, but i am going about this the way i stated in the original post. I bought the parts already so turning back is a definite hard decision here. I never said i'm going to do anything to grenade the motor. As a matter of fact anything I do will be made sure its reliable and safe. So what would be safe hp to make with the set up im going with.

 

locked.
you can lead a horse to water, but you cant make em drink.