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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 08:11 AM
  #1701  
turbo gli's Avatar
 
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From: tacy, ca, usa
Default Re: (legendboy)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a couple collector pipes i cut for project dc2



</TD></TR></TABLE>

holy crap .. very nice .. u using the table top style band saw u showed us earlyer .. very nice .
hey wanna post up a pic of your jig/setup on how u cut thoes
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 11:59 AM
  #1702  
.RTErnie's Avatar
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From: BeLlInGhAm, Wa
Default Re: (turbo gli)

DITO!!!!

JIG pics please.
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Old Jun 2, 2004 | 12:09 PM
  #1703  
legendboy's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Default Re: (Matt_sb2004)

aww i don't wana take all the fun out of it for you guys
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 06:33 PM
  #1704  
BEV@GSCMotorsports's Avatar
 
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From: Hilton Head, SC, USA
Default Re: (legendboy)

Hey guys, i've been reading through the thread. I've ordered all the materials i need to make a turbo manifold, but the only thing i just cannot seem to find is the dang b-series exhaust/header flange. does anyone know were to get one?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 06:38 PM
  #1705  
integra_gsr98's Avatar
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Default Re: (BEV@GSC)

Call up Full-Race for your flange needs.

http://www.full-race.com/
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 02:56 AM
  #1706  
BEV@GSCMotorsports's Avatar
 
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From: Hilton Head, SC, USA
Default Re: (integra_gsr98)

Would you/someone mind getting the phone number for me, becasue the computers that i have access to won't allow me to view there website... These f-in' POS computers suck....
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 04:57 AM
  #1707  
cornbread's Avatar
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Default Re: (BEV@GSC)

SALES: (866) FULL-RACE
TECH: (602) 437-2101
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 05:12 AM
  #1708  
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From: Filthadelphia Area, PA, USA
Default Re: (BEV@GSC)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BEV@GSC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, i've been reading through the thread. I've ordered all the materials i need to make a turbo manifold, but the only thing i just cannot seem to find is the dang b-series exhaust/header flange. does anyone know were to get one?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/f...16448
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 05:19 AM
  #1709  
BEV@GSCMotorsports's Avatar
 
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From: Hilton Head, SC, USA
Default Re: (racerxadam)

ahh man.. thank you guys so much....
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 07:17 AM
  #1710  
hulkhb's Avatar
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From: 253, usa
Default Re: (BEV@GSC)

Yea man dont pay too much when you dont have to get them from http://www.bmcrace.com cheapest around anywhere and there 1/2"
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 08:41 AM
  #1711  
Bailhatch's Avatar
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From: ME
Default Re: (hulkhb)

yup these are awesome flanges^. way better than JGS tools. Pretty sure they are not all 1/2" but great looking anyway.
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 08:45 AM
  #1712  
legendboy's Avatar
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Default Re: (Bailhatch)

anybody bought from http://www.bmcrace.com before?
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 09:10 AM
  #1713  
Bailhatch's Avatar
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From: ME
Default Re: (legendboy)

yup last month i did, very fast and cheap shipping. i plan on getting more from him. it was like 32 bucks for a D series headflange and turbo inlet flange shipped. 3-4 days later i had it.
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 05:32 PM
  #1714  
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From: broke in the bay area, CA
Default Re: (legendboy)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anybody bought from http://www.bmcrace.com before?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, 3 or 4 times. They get a definite from me
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 11:35 AM
  #1715  
BEV@GSCMotorsports's Avatar
 
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From: Hilton Head, SC, USA
Default Re: (sporkcrx)

I got a flange from BMC. very nice. good prices too...


I'm going to start welding my manifold together tonight, and i was wondering of anyone could give me some suggestions on a good order/series to weld everything together so that i don't get stuck at a point where i can't get to a spot.
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 02:00 PM
  #1716  
david@didrace.com's Avatar
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From: Lemont, IL, USA
Default Re: (BEV@GSC)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BEV@GSC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I got a flange from BMC. very nice. good prices too...


I'm going to start welding my manifold together tonight, and i was wondering of anyone could give me some suggestions on a good order/series to weld everything together so that i don't get stuck at a point where i can't get to a spot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What type of manifold? It's best to clamp or bolt down the flange to a thicker piece of steel. This acts as a heatsink so that the flange doesn't warp. Also to help stop warping do small sections of piping at time and alternate between pipes so that the metal does not heat up too much. You should use solar flux and/or backpurge the pipes so that the backside of the weld is not contaminated.
Good luck.
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 07:03 PM
  #1717  
Built B16A's Avatar
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From: hittin corners so hard you can taste my rims..
Default Re: (10-94-55)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 10-94-55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What type of manifold? It's best to clamp or bolt down the flange to a thicker piece of steel. This acts as a heatsink so that the flange doesn't warp. Also to help stop warping do small sections of piping at time and alternate between pipes so that the metal does not heat up too much.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this is good advise.. but even better advise from me.. after you complete you manifold.. take it to a machine shop and have it surfaced.. it may look straight.. but why second guess it? (its only 15-20 bucks tops too!)
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 05:15 AM
  #1718  
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Default Re: (Built B16A)

I've decided I'm tired of depending on shops and people to do my welds for me, so I have a few questions to ask if you guys don't mind.

First off, I'll be doing automotive welding at first, and probably mostly just automotive.

I don't have access to the 220V plugs, and can't splice into home wires to add them. So, for a normal house plug type setup, what recommendations would you have for welding normal stuff like cast iron manifolds, exhaust, etc? Specifically I'm looking for a lower cost beginner welder, with the ability to weld manifolds, etc, and possibly upgradeable, but not too expensive (say, sub $400) so that I can try it and see if I can manage it.

Secondly, for welding aluminum piping, like for intercoolers, etc... If I understand right the way to go is TIG welders, and they average around $1k... obviously not something I want to try first until I make sure I can do it. So, to get started with welding for my automotive projects, what kind of welders should I look at that will work within my scope? That is, to meet these criteria:

1. Runs on normal household 120V.
2. Able to weld iron manifolds, exhaust, etc.
3. Not too expensive (sub $400.)
4. Upgradeable.

I read the first 20 pages, and there was a ton of good information, but I still am not quite sure what the best path for me is. Thanks.

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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 08:16 AM
  #1719  
Built B16A's Avatar
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From: hittin corners so hard you can taste my rims..
Default Re: (Dramier)

spork here bought a harbor freight welder for like a buck 25, and he just did his turbo kit with it..

they'res plenty of 110 welders @ low cost, but if you ever run into something thick, you'll have to take it to a shop to get it done right.. (i think sprok's manifold was border line)
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 01:10 PM
  #1720  
Dramier's Avatar
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From: Denton, TX
Default Re: (Built B16A)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">spork here bought a harbor freight welder for like a buck 25, and he just did his turbo kit with it..

they'res plenty of 110 welders @ low cost, but if you ever run into something thick, you'll have to take it to a shop to get it done right.. (i think sprok's manifold was border line) </TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand what you're saying.

Would that simple of a welder be able to do aluminum/ss ? From what I have read in this thread, they have special requirements... please correct me if I'm wrong, and thanks for answering my question.
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 01:19 PM
  #1721  
Built B16A's Avatar
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From: hittin corners so hard you can taste my rims..
Default Re: (Dramier)

im not 100% certin about aluminum.. you might, as far as i know, aluminum is only a different kind of wire, as it is with stainless steel.

and yes, stainless would be able to be achived with a regular mig welder.

i think some of the welding gods shoudl chime in on this one though..
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Old Jun 19, 2004 | 09:52 PM
  #1722  
turbo gli's Avatar
 
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From: tacy, ca, usa
Default Re: (10-94-55)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 10-94-55 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What type of manifold? It's best to clamp or bolt down the flange to a thicker piece of steel. This acts as a heatsink so that the flange doesn't warp. Also to help stop warping do small sections of piping at time and alternate between pipes so that the metal does not heat up too much. You should use solar flux and/or backpurge the pipes so that the backside of the weld is not contaminated.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do u do this ..??
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Old Jun 20, 2004 | 01:10 PM
  #1723  
JDM_JON's Avatar
 
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From: SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Default Re: (turbo gli)

whats up...Im in southern california...anaheim 714 area....does anyone know where to get U bends..aluminum, mild steel, and aluminumized? cheap? i can get them right now for about 19 bucks for the mild steel ones...any one know of any local places around my area that has them cheaper?? TIA -Jon
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Old Jun 20, 2004 | 01:59 PM
  #1724  
baphomet's Avatar
 
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Default Re: (Dramier)

I like the hobart handler 140. You can get it for about 450 + tank. Setup for mig already just add tank. Comes with flux core wire so you can start welding with out the gas tank. Uses reg. 115 house current and welds 24 gauge up to 1/4 inch in a single pass.

You can weld aluminum with it, though I think you need a vinyl liner. Just get some aluminum wire. A diff. gun would be IDEAL but NOT necessary.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dramier &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've decided I'm tired of depending on shops and people to do my welds for me, so I have a few questions to ask if you guys don't mind.

First off, I'll be doing automotive welding at first, and probably mostly just automotive.

I don't have access to the 220V plugs, and can't splice into home wires to add them. So, for a normal house plug type setup, what recommendations would you have for welding normal stuff like cast iron manifolds, exhaust, etc? Specifically I'm looking for a lower cost beginner welder, with the ability to weld manifolds, etc, and possibly upgradeable, but not too expensive (say, sub $400) so that I can try it and see if I can manage it.

Secondly, for welding aluminum piping, like for intercoolers, etc... If I understand right the way to go is TIG welders, and they average around $1k... obviously not something I want to try first until I make sure I can do it. So, to get started with welding for my automotive projects, what kind of welders should I look at that will work within my scope? That is, to meet these criteria:

1. Runs on normal household 120V.
2. Able to weld iron manifolds, exhaust, etc.
3. Not too expensive (sub $400.)
4. Upgradeable.

I read the first 20 pages, and there was a ton of good information, but I still am not quite sure what the best path for me is. Thanks.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2004 | 02:15 PM
  #1725  
.David's Avatar
 
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From: Colorado
Default

I was looking on jcwhitney for some charge pipes and I found this (think its new...)

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webap...10101

think it would be some good stuff to make an exhaust out of?
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