you guys say here at work.... just curious what you guys do for a living? kinda thinkin about going to get certifications for a real job?

edit got page 56!!! woops


Modified by warwagon at 10:33 AM 5/22/2004

 

remodels/construction/"anything" love doing fab work, for fun mostly but i do get alot of people i do stuff for.constructions pays a lot beter here, welding fab shop wanted me to work for 10$hr aa aa no thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by warwagon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
edit got page 66!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

your 10 pages ahead of yourself

I was a lead at a manufacturing company that uses Bosch/Rexroth extruded aluminum for the structures. Building things like ergonomic workstations, cart for Boeing, and super computer chassis for Intel. Pretty cool **** till some BS went down and i got laid off. so now i am just doing http://www.crpturbo.com for some income while looking for another day job.

 

we finally got our tig welder and we suck
haha

we have never done it before and the few good beads we have laid down look like crappy mig welds

 

a sport compact drag racing forum with a welding forum... just started like a month ago...

http://www.dragracingpros.com

Ed-

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we finally got our tig welder and we suck
haha

we have never done it before and the few good beads we have laid down look like crappy mig welds</TD></TR></TABLE>

which one?? pics!

 

Here is a collector I made last night. Turned out ok, just can't figure out how the hell you guys weld up the top.

 

i got no pics yet, but we got the lincoln precision tig 185

 

Nice collector

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got no pics yet, but we got the lincoln precision tig 185</TD></TR></TABLE>

Aww lucky. I wish I could afford one of thoes!

 

when you are ready to buy one get a miller dynasty 200 dx, it has pulse which really helps on stainless

 

i was lucky enough to spend a day with 2 miller reps,they showed me all kinds of tricks,but one of the main things he told me and showed me was how much easier and more consistant you can get gold beads with stainless with the pulsing on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by warwagon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you guys say here at work.... just curious what you guys do for a living? </TD></TR></TABLE>
personaly.. im a mechanic for one of the largest utillites in southern california. although i mainly work on cars.. big ones.. (3 axle diesels) from time to time, we've had to make repairs which include welding. however, my job really has no importance to welding.. its just down right fun.. and i just started playing with it one day.. just making ****.. sometimes **** you can't even tell is ****.. lol its just fun.. sorta like fire.. lol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a collector I made last night. Turned out ok, just can't figure out how the hell you guys weld up the top. </TD></TR></TABLE>
oh thats ******* beautiful!

 

i think if you have the money the miller syncrowave 250DX is the way to go! i have one and it works awesome!

 

well i picked up the respirator at harbor freight for 20bucks. what kinds of cartridges are you guys using? the one that comes with it is a chemical one for "organic vapors" and doesnt list welding fumes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fab1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think if you have the money the miller syncrowave 250DX is the way to go! i have one and it works awesome!</TD></TR></TABLE>

why stop there if money isn't an issue, dynasty 300 dx with all the extras would be my choice.

 

It's fairly good looking but you need to work on the heat control. I think you may also need some more gas. What is the regulator set at? There are some people who hang out on fab-forum with more experience than me...

Look at the heat marks along the side. These should be uniform. It looks like you got a little impatient in the first photo where you started and you can see where you may have been moving the pedal as you moved up. Starts out a little cold, then gets hotter then dips a little and gets hotter again for the end.

Heat Angle Distance Speed.

Now for your top I usually weld 2 halves together then do the one finishing bead. Pull the tungesen out a little and use a smaller cup size to get in there. If you have a shorty tail you can use it with a small piece of tungesten to try and weld it from the inside as well.

-Michael

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by legendboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a collector I made last night. Turned out ok, just can't figure out how the hell you guys weld up the top.



</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hackish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's fairly good looking but you need to work on the heat control. I think you may also need some more gas. What is the regulator set at? There are some people who hang out on fab-forum with more experience than me...

Look at the heat marks along the side. These should be uniform. It looks like you got a little impatient in the first photo where you started and you can see where you may have been moving the pedal as you moved up. Starts out a little cold, then gets hotter then dips a little and gets hotter again for the end.

Heat Angle Distance Speed.

Now for your top I usually weld 2 halves together then do the one finishing bead. Pull the tungesen out a little and use a smaller cup size to get in there. If you have a shorty tail you can use it with a small piece of tungesten to try and weld it from the inside as well.

-Michael

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the advise! I just found out about the special small torchs for tight spaces so i think i'm gonna pick one up. Here is a pic of a manifold i did in 304. Kind of a hard way to learn to use 1/2" flanges. (head flange is mega warped )

 

Ouch. That's an expensive mistake. Fortunately you should be able to cut the flange off and weld another one on. Depending on how badly warped it is you could probably also get a machine to mill it flat.

Here is one that I was working on last week. The guy originally wanted a log style but I made this instead.



I hate working with MS. Anyway you can see the 2nd runner is ready to be ground down before welding to the flange.

For the flange I used some 1/2" cold rolled MS. I also vicegrip clamped it to another piece of 1/2" plate and welded it in short beads alternating sides and runners. End result a few thou of runout. Basically no warpage.

-Michael

 

Yea if you plan on weld somthing continously you gotta have it bolted down to somthing flat. I use a 4"X4" peice of AL to bolt my flanges down to so theres no warpage.
Like stated though - Looks like you can cut it off and weld another one there.

 

Well luckily i have http://www.guyons.com/fabrication.html in my city and derrek, the machinist seemed confident he could fix it no problem so i'll let him try. I do have a spare b series head at home and i'll use that next time i think.

 

you also might to try another flange the more metal the flange has between each runner help it to keep from warping the ones full-race use have almost no dip in the flange between each runner, i just make a mani for a dsm and the flange i got was like that almost no material removed from the flange just like a rectangle with some holes and it had a slight warp but nothing like what you will have with the flange you or even i still use on a manifold. i dont bolt mine to anything when i weld i just do small areas at a time and they turn out fine but try a larger flange if you can i think full-race sells theirs for 60

how does that cutting the flange into four sections(making three cuts) work out for ya i havent done that yet but might start to. does the flange remain straight when you cut it after you have welded it one, seems like when you cut the flange after you have welded it on it would shift a bit.

 

The flanges normally move a bit when you cut them. I saw a full-race manifold do the same thing. Usually not an issue.

 

ok i have been trying to figure this out for awhile.But how the hell do you guys cut the pipe to make the collectors? Whats the formula you have to figure out to know the angles and stuff?

 

Guess and check. Figure out how long you want your collector to be..and make the cut so that 75% of the lenght is cut of at the most...and make 4 of them identical. tada! or you can make them at the angle you so desire...with a little more time. but its not like I really give a hoot... 22degrees or 25degrees... I say unless its for a drag car..don't sweat the small stuff.